resized rods. face has dings

[Cartel]

Should these faces been polished our something?
I see some dings and stuff that look like they will scratch the other rod face or the crank face. Before I put the rings on these, should I be taking some other action first?
thanks

 

[Cartel]

the other 6 rods 1 side

 

[Cartel]

other 6 rods side 2

 

[Cartel]

I weighed each piston/rod.
within a gram, they do have oil on them too but that semms pretty good to me?

 

[Cartel]

I'm sorry the camera is not focusing worth a darn.
1 rod has a step on the outer edge that worries me

 

[Big_John]

If you want, the easiest thing to do is take a piece of 320 or 400 grit wet or dry paper and lay it out on something flat. A piece of glass will work. Lay the rods on their sides and carefully move them in a figure 8 over the paper. Just a couple swipes and you'll see if there are any high spots. You aren't removing any material, just knocking down the high spots and cleaning up the sides.

The "dings" are kind of typical. Some are from handling... Like when you removed the rods from the engine. Some are left overs manufacturing where the forged surface isn't completely cleaned up when the sides are machined. Anything above the surface is bad. Below the surface is OK. You'll see it as shiny around the dings if the surface is raised.

Chances are very good you aren't going to see any high spots.

 

[Cartel]

And some of the rods the bearing tang indents are not consistent...I'm confused

 

[Big_John]

All those are is a notch for the bearing tangs to keep them from spinning.

As long as the the tang fits so the bearing shell is seated, you're good.

 

[Cartel]

thank you big_john.
that "step" apears to be on the fillit side so hopefully no harm.
I could try giving the faces a light scuff at least

 

[73Coupe]

Those rods look a little rough like they've been tossed around or handled carelessly which is common. Big John has some good advice for checking the sides.

Is the step on the machined surface...as in the cap is not aligned? I can't see anything in the photos.

After scuffing, make sure that the rods are absolutely clean before installing the bearing shells, including the cap mating surfaces - make sure no proud points there, too. Scrub them with solvent and a toothbrush, blow them off with brakeclean. There's probably grit left over from the resizing operation at the shop too.

You should consolidate all of your posts on this engine into one build thread so we can see the progress from start to finish.

 

[Cartel]

Those rods look a little rough like they've been tossed around or handled carelessly which is common. Big John has some good advice for checking the sides.

Is the step on the machined surface...as in the cap is not aligned? I can't see anything in the photos.

After scuffing, make sure that the rods are absolutely clean before installing the bearing shells, including the cap mating surfaces - make sure no proud points there, too. Scrub them with solvent and a toothbrush, blow them off with brakeclean. There's probably grit left over from the resizing operation at the shop too.

You should consolidate all of your posts on this engine into one build thread so we can see the progress from start to finish.

the thing is these just came back from the machine shop. $2800....he should have done this when the rods were resized no? Not when its final cleaned and oiled. I'm ready to put this in my engine to find this. It came home and went in the closet till now wrapped up in a box. now I gotta sand the rods with the pistons on and try to make it clean again.
I'll do it but I figured that would have been done already. Good thing I checked I guess

You should consolidate all of your posts on this engine into one build thread so we can see the progress from start to finish.

maybe later. some of these posts I hope to get angers for I got the parts in my hand and need to get this engine done.
like the lifters. some look like they got scratched with a nail or something. only a short scratch but deeper than the maching. should I contact sumit and tell them to send me new lifters?
I do not want to just gamble on this.
thank you

Is my new build doomed because I bought a flat tappet?

The way this sounds is I should just give up now DLC lifters? nitride the cam? Seriously if they cant make a relible product they should quit making them all together Am I doomed ? Is $600cad not enough for a cam and lifter set?

www.forcbodiesonly.com

 

[Cartel]

All those are is a notch for the bearing tangs to keep them from spinning.

As long as the the tang fits so the bearing shell is seated, you're good.

I'm wondering did the factory do that?did the shop do that when they resized the rods?
it was never apart before so I'm wondering whats going on there

 

[Toolmanmike]

If your machine shop does quality work, they will dress the side surfaces as well.

 

[Jakter]

The best I can tell by these various threads is a running engine was pulled, that in my opinion just needed to be cleaned up and gaskets replaced and now there is a large machine shop and parts bill and anxiety over possible problems when the engine does get put back together.

Never did understand why folks are so quick to jump in and rebuild an engine for no other reason than to say they rebuilt an engine.

My advice has always been, run it until it stops then worry about it.

 

[Big_John]

I'm wondering did the factory do that?did the shop do that when they resized the rods?
it was never apart before so I'm wondering whats going on there

The notches are factory. Did you look at this stuff when you took the engine apart?

 

[Big_John]

If your machine shop does quality work, they will dress the side surfaces as well.

View attachment 691581

View attachment 691582

It kind of depends... Some shops don't like to do much with the sides of the rods because it increases side clearance on the rods... Especially if the crank has been ground and the sides of the journal were "touched up". There's a spec'd width somewhere, but the bottom line is the total clearance needs to be .009 to .017". I didn't find the nominal width listed in the FSM, but I think it's around 1.015" or something like that. (don't quote me on that one).

Most of the reason for any machining on the sides is to fix any twist in the con rods.

A good shop should at least deburr the sides and/or stone any nicks so they are flat. That was probably done in this case.

 

[Big_John]

Here's a decent article on con rod rebuilding. Back to Basics: Reconditioning Connecting Rods - Engine Builder Magazine

 

[Cartel]

The best I can tell by these various threads is a running engine was pulled, that in my opinion just needed to be cleaned up and gaskets replaced and now there is a large machine shop and parts bill and anxiety over possible problems when the engine does get put back together.

Never did understand why folks are so quick to jump in and rebuild an engine for no other reason than to say they rebuilt an engine.

My advice has always been, run it until it stops then worry about it.

I had to rebuild it. It was tired and had a lip on the cylinders.
There is slim pickings up here to get the work done
I just didnt realize how bad the industry has become and how hard it is to find good parts now.
I'm just trying to be thorough and do it right.

The notches are factory. Did you look at this stuff when you took the engine apart?

I did not study the notches. the engine was filthy too.
I'm not saying this happened but I learned you need to watch everything close, shops could give you someone elses crap part or save a good part for themselves or a buddy and give you the trash. I'm not saying I think that is happening but I want to make sure it hasnt. inadvertently or not. I'm being very careful and am not gonna leave things to chance.

today is a holiday (happy veterans day to anyone that served) but I will get done 400 and lightly scuff and make sure there are no burs or raised edges then wash the big ends off and blow them down after.

thank you for your help

 

[Big_John]

I did not study the notches. the engine was filthy too.

Here's your lesson... As you take apart an engine that you are going to be rebuilding, you want to look at everything. In this case, were any of the rod bearings spun? Probably not because the bore on the con rods won't be easily repairable. If they didn't spin from all the street miles, they aren't going to now.

Just looking at the bearings as the engine comes apart can tell you volumes about it... and tell you if this engine (or crank, rods etc.) is something you want to rebuild. You always want to start with the best core to rebuild. There's a lot of books out there and a lot out on the intrawebs. Look at engine builders web sites and take anything from a forum (including this one and anything I write) with a grain of salt until you can verify the answer with more reliable sources.

Some reading on the subject... https://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/m...b-2-1114-engine-bearing-failures-brochure.pdf

 

[Cartel]

Here's your lesson... As you take apart an engine that you are going to be rebuilding, you want to look at everything. In this case, were any of the rod bearings spun? Probably not because the bore on the con rods won't be easily repairable. If they didn't spin from all the street miles, they aren't going to now.

Just looking at the bearings as the engine comes apart can tell you volumes about it... and tell you if this engine (or crank, rods etc.) is something you want to rebuild. You always want to start with the best core to rebuild. There's a lot of books out there and a lot out on the intrawebs. Look at engine builders web sites and take anything from a forum (including this one and anything I write) with a grain of salt until you can verify the answer with more reliable sources.

Some reading on the subject... https://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/m...b-2-1114-engine-bearing-failures-brochure.pdf

I pulled the 383 out of my 66 windsor

and it seems pretty gritty and lots of sludge in the pan. I was driving this thing like that... I thought I'd upload some pictures and see what you guys think. I pulled a main cap and there is a ridge where the oil hole in in the crank. I was hoping for a easy refresh. probably not now. also...

www.forcbodiesonly.com

bearings were ok.