Ron McDowell
New Member
Best shock replacement for 1973 Newport
Shocks
- Thread starter Ron McDowell
- Start date
I prefer KYB gas shocks.
Ron McDowell
New Member
Good this is what I have
Installation can be challenging in front. Do not cut the plastic strap until they are in position.
Ron McDowell
New Member
I don't see a plastic strap on mine
There is supposed to be a plastic strap that holds the shock in the compressed position to make it easy to install. Good luck.
Ron McDowell
New Member
Good luck ..like your screwed lol
The listing for rear shock is too short, You should go the longer shock, 24" KG5413 KYB rear. KG4507 KYB front. Install 72 dodge pick up truck rear brake flex hose to allow max drop of axel to remove wheels easy. The listed c-body hose is too short and when you lift car the hose gets stretched.
Ron McDowell
New Member
I appreciate the advice..I'm replacing the front shocks, so hopefully these will work. I did some research seams they will. Anyone else install these as per the picture?
It seems they have stopped shipping with a strap, the last 3 sets I have purchased had no straps. I had zip ties installed and as I compressed pulled the ties tight. Awkward job.
Ron McDowell
New Member
the shocks piston wont even move, not sure how to compress it or is it already compressed ?
this maybe a dumb question lol
this maybe a dumb question lol
Jakter
Well-Known Member
Someone on the ForwardLook part of this forum had good luck using his drill press to compress and secure the shock in the collapsed position.
The last time I installed those shocks on one of my cars they came compressed and tied so I have no other suggestions.
It is a hard press to get them moving
place the first washer and rubber bushing on, wrap zip ties long enough to wrap over the washer and through the lower bold hole in a x pattern. I did this with my Imperial.
I saw this on the 300 club site. An old socket with a notch ground in it for the cable tie.
Ron McDowell
New Member
How did you compress the shock
Jakter
Well-Known Member
When they came collapsed from the manufacturer the strapping did not go through the lower bolt hole but above it.
The plastic strap was also made to fit the shock and not zip ties.
The plastic strap was also made to fit the shock and not zip ties.
place the tip on a scrap of wood and push down, as it is compressing tighten your zip ties. I wore a heavy glove on the hand doing the compressing. Might be good to have a helper tighten the zip ties while you push down. The shock needs to be fully compressed to fit in the shock housing. when you have the base of the shock lined up on the lower control arm mount for the through bolt, then you cut the zip tie making sure it goes through the shock stud hole at top of housing. Make sure you have removed the old bushing from frame shock housing, I made that mistake once and it was a long tetius job trying to get the old bushing out of the way and compress shock while jambed in on an angle. You get one shot, aim straight. Compressing these shocks in the car is a nightmare. remove the rebound bumper from upper control arm so control arms hang fully. Or if you have tools and experience, separate the spindle from upper so it completely drops out of your way. Thats how you would remove these pressured shocks. But thats another story.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
I used to use bailing wire to hold the front shocks in their compressed state, having pressed them down with a big screwdriver through the eye meant for the bottom, with the top pressed into a wood block. I used my weight to press the shock down, and would twist the bailing wire when I got it to max compression/minimum length. With a 20 ton press, this becomes much easier, but I still use bailing wire. Don't despair!
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