Simple Bulkhead Bypass

[Gerald Morris]

The bypass takes 50% of the load away from the ammeter gauge, and eliminates any electrical breakdowns should the ammeter shorts out.
All of the car's current flows through the ammeter. No ammeter, no working car, got it?
I am using the Powermaster 90 amp alternator with the underhood ammeter bypass using a heavy gauge wire 8 or 10 if i can remember.
With EFI follow the instructions and if possible use relays for everything.
Your stereo equipment being fed from the battery should be fine. Use heavy gauge wire and appropiate fuses for the amp output. Ultimately, depending on the stereo, having its own deep cycle battery would be best separate from the car battery.
Hope this helps.

Use a battery isolator to charge the deep cycle battery. Even if using dual 12V batteries meant for normal automotive stuff, its best to isolate them electrically, to prevent them discharging into each other when the alternator isn't running, or even if it is.

MANY people FORGET, or never realize that batteries are ALSO RESISTIVE LOADS, and will discharge into other batteries to mutual ruin if not managed. As automotive electrical widgetry becomes more demanding, the need for better battery management also increases. While old fashioned golf carts and forklifts could get by with daisy chained battery banks, its best, even if adding but ONE additional battery, to protect it. I say just buy ONE high capacity battery, even if running a major jamming and rocking amp with the "tooner" for most folks' needs....

 

[HOT FURY]

Use a battery isolator to charge the deep cycle battery. Even if using dual 12V batteries meant for normal automotive stuff, its best to isolate them electrically, to prevent them discharging into each other when the alternator isn't running, or even if it is.

MANY people FORGET, or never realize that batteries are ALSO RESISTIVE LOADS, and will discharge into other batteries to mutual ruin if not managed. As automotive electrical widgetry becomes more demanding, the need for better battery management also increases. While old fashioned golf carts and forklifts could get by with daisy chained battery banks, its best, even if adding but ONE additional battery, to protect it. I say just buy ONE high capacity battery, even if running a major jamming and rocking amp with the "tooner" for most folks' needs....

thx! BTW feel free to road trip a couple hours north to assist me with this mess! lol

 

[cbarge]

Use a battery isolator to charge the deep cycle battery. Even if using dual 12V batteries meant for normal automotive stuff, its best to isolate them electrically, to prevent them discharging into each other when the alternator isn't running, or even if it is.

MANY people FORGET, or never realize that batteries are ALSO RESISTIVE LOADS, and will discharge into other batteries to mutual ruin if not managed. As automotive electrical widgetry becomes more demanding, the need for better battery management also increases. While old fashioned golf carts and forklifts could get by with daisy chained battery banks, its best, even if adding but ONE additional battery, to protect it. I say just buy ONE high capacity battery, even if running a major jamming and rocking amp with the "tooner" for most folks' needs....

Very good Gerald! Thanks!

 

[HOT FURY]

When changing the alternator whether going to a dual field or staying with a single field design did anyone switch the voltage regulator to the early to mid 70's electronic style? Any issues you see with that upgrade while making the changes on mine this coming weekend?

 

[cbarge]

When changing the alternator whether going to a dual field or staying with a single field design did anyone switch the voltage regulator to the early to mid 70's electronic style? Any issues you see with that upgrade while making the changes on mine this coming weekend?

You can go with the newer style but really no need when you can get an electronic one that is plug n play for 69-older cars.
A member here sells them.
@FURYGT

 

[Gerald Morris]

When changing the alternator whether going to a dual field or staying with a single field design did anyone switch the voltage regulator to the early to mid 70's electronic style? Any issues you see with that upgrade while making the changes on mine this coming weekend?

The only reason to go to a dual field capable regulator would be if you MUST upgrade to a dual field alternator AND have OTHER circuit requirements which CAN NOT be met by a single field, "roundback" type regulator. I run solid state single filed regulators in my pre-1969 C body rides, always, and had a cheap reman squareback dual field alternator, then bought the PowerMaster. In both cases, I just grounded the field and fed it from the single output regulator with happy results.

If you MUST buy a dual field regulator, get one made by a reputable source. Tuff Stuff makes their wares in the U.S., though I admit I ran a good quality sino-make I bought from a MOST reputable vendor from this Forum, FuryGT. ( Mopar Voltage Regulator - Electronic Solid State with Correct Restoration Look | eBay ) I'm currently running this one, https://www.ebay.com/itm/191668898262?epid=18028110474&hash=item2ca05b49d6:g:RD8AAOSwCWNcON7L
which is made in the U.S.. IDK why I got it, as the one I got from FuryGT still works fine. Think I scored a deal if I recall now....

These solid state single field regulators do FINE. I might even use one on my '83 Dodge D150, if there is no reason not to, when replacing the original becomes an issue. It still runs a 60A squareback alternator w the /6, which was part of why I copped it; the 4 speed w OD 833 was the other reason.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Very good Gerald! Thanks!

My Duty and Pleasure bro! Nice to USE a little of the lore from my high$ degree for folks' GOOD.

 

[Gerald Morris]

thx! BTW feel free to road trip a couple hours north to assist me with this mess! lol

That's not a totally bad thought.... I NEED to get up to Maricopa Co, Prescott, Pinal et al where the SURVIVING MOPARS CAN BE FOUND!! Damn Tacoberg here has been STRIPPED of nigh all it once had over the past 6 years!

I need a decent running B/RB motor as a substitute candidate for Gertrude. Once this "Skool ****" for Kiddo 1 finishes for the season, I plan to get that 400 into a machine shop and get it rebuilt and RUNNING, but having an extra runner won't hurt.

My next ELECTRICAL project for Trudi will be to get the horn working, then the headlight relay harness I devised for Mathilda transplanted in. Let me tell you: 10 gauge conductors DO carry the current to the lamps BETTER than smaller gauge wires, and at such low voltage as 12V, one best needs allow for even SMALL voltage drops. Those 50 yr old NOS 400x lamps light up BEAUTIFULLY with the fat conductors direct from the battery!

I notice as I dig into the 1983 pickup we got some small, but needful improvements over the 15 years from Trudi's "birth" which I commend Chrysler Corp for making. Better designed grounding, insulation and such helped systems which still were based on the very old assumptions dominating Mopar electrical design through the 1960s. The ammeter and bulkhead connector still lurk, but termination methods improved!

Pity that by 1990 the drive toward "baroque electrical device features had possessed Mopar as well as the Other Two Detroit Titans. I like that as late as 1983, 60A squareback alternators still drove some Mopar vehicles.

 

[HOT FURY]

That's not a totally bad thought.... I NEED to get up to Maricopa Co, Prescott, Pinal et al where the SURVIVING MOPARS CAN BE FOUND!! Damn Tacoberg here has been STRIPPED of nigh all it once had over the past 6 years!

I need a decent running B/RB motor as a substitute candidate for Gertrude. Once this "Skool ****" for Kiddo 1 finishes for the season, I plan to get that 400 into a machine shop and get it rebuilt and RUNNING, but having an extra runner won't hurt.

My next ELECTRICAL project for Trudi will be to get the horn working, then the headlight relay harness I devised for Mathilda transplanted in. Let me tell you: 10 gauge conductors DO carry the current to the lamps BETTER than smaller gauge wires, and at such low voltage as 12V, one best needs allow for even SMALL voltage drops. Those 50 yr old NOS 400x lamps light up BEAUTIFULLY with the fat conductors direct from the battery!

I notice as I dig into the 1983 pickup we got some small, but needful improvements over the 15 years from Trudi's "birth" which I commend Chrysler Corp for making. Better designed grounding, insulation and such helped systems which still were based on the very old assumptions dominating Mopar electrical design through the 1960s. The ammeter and bulkhead connector still lurk, but termination methods improved!

Pity that by 1990 the drive toward "baroque electrical device features had possessed Mopar as well as the Other Two Detroit Titans. I like that as late as 1983, 60A squareback alternators still drove some Mopar vehicles.

Yeah, I have a 400 sitting on an engine stand I'm planning to build the 440source 500ci stroker motor with as long as the the block is in good condition. My car should be back from upholstery shop this weekend, finishing up a these electrical upgrades, hopefully installing my disk brakes over next couple weeks then will start tearing into the other motor to see what she looks like inside.