So I want to have a 440 built....

If I could find a proper hard line I'd use one to be honest.
These guys are giving very good advice... have one made or bend one yourself. Any line that gives a fair chance to spraying the distributor and exhaust with fuel is simply temping fate a little too much.
 
Hard line from tank to carburetor inlet. The only interruption should be hose connections at the fuel filter. And hose shouldn't be used as bends.
Is that mirror crooked?
 
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The short one comes out of the fuel pump, turns sharply up. Then the fuel filter with 2" hose on each end.
Then the longer one goes from the fuel filter, between the block and the distributer, into the carburetor.

A dual inlet carb will need this:

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UNLESS the carb is on a low rise manifold.

If the duel inlet carb is on a low-rise manifold, you HAVE to use the Mr. Gasket duel inlet fuel line.

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Hard to photograph but you can see it's relation to the alternator mount and distributor.

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So, I have a couple hundred miles on the 451. I noticed it runs warmer than the 383 did, and is getting about 195 while stopped in traffic in the upper 70's here. Per my engine builder, a 160 degree stat was installed. I have a rather nice aluminum racing radiator Krautmaster installed before I got the car. Should I be running a hotter stat? I don't want this thing overheating during cruises.
 
So, I have a couple hundred miles on the 451. I noticed it runs warmer than the 383 did, and is getting about 195 while stopped in traffic in the upper 70's here. Per my engine builder, a 160 degree stat was installed. I have a rather nice aluminum racing radiator Krautmaster installed before I got the car. Should I be running a hotter stat? I don't want this thing overheating during cruises.
A hotter thermostat won't hurt or help you... There is an argument to run the hotter t-stat so you run warmer all the time. Mostly that will be about keeping fuel in suspension in your intake during cold weather.

All the thermostat can do is restrict coolant flow through the radiator when below rated temperature... once you get to fully opened... it has no more control. OK, before I am corrected, the opening of the thermostat does control how much flow is possible, but the opening doesn't change with temperature ratings... never run without a thermostat, in an emergency, break the valve out of the center and use the plate as a restriction to prevent too much flow.

195 is not unreasonable... but you may want to review your fan(s), shrouding and pieces that direct airflow through the radiator if this only happens at stops.
 
So, I have a couple hundred miles on the 451. I noticed it runs warmer than the 383 did, and is getting about 195 while stopped in traffic in the upper 70's here. Per my engine builder, a 160 degree stat was installed. I have a rather nice aluminum racing radiator Krautmaster installed before I got the car. Should I be running a hotter stat? I don't want this thing overheating during cruises.


When I could not find a fan shroud for the big block swap I was doing This is what I used in our '85 D150 with a 440 swap:
DORMAN 620104 Radiator Fan Assembly $ $107 from Rock Auto.
Complete with both fans and mounted in a shroud that fits a 26" radiator perfectly. I used 3/8 spacers under the ears of the shroud and existing shroud mounting locations on the radiator.
Plus + Painless # 30117 Dual Fan Relay Kit from Summit $119
The painless kit is Stupid Proof - every wire is labeled, every connector and screw is included. Activates fans at 185 degrees or if AC compressor is turned on.

It keeps the 10.5 440 cool on a 100 degree day in stop and go with the AC on.
 
Am currently running an American Eagle 26" aluminum 2 row radiator with 1" tubes. & blade clutch fan with clutch, and the proper shroud is attached. Rich used to have a 195 degree stat with the 383, and he told me that radiator never let it get hotter than that. Now we have a mild 451 and a 160 degree stat.
 
More compression = more heat, over boring / thinner cylinder walls = more heat.
More advance / more efficient leaner mixture = more heat.

You have changed the mix considerably since the 383 so it shouldn't be a surprise that the cooling system may need a little help.
 
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