dcjoe22
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Did he say if the material was rubber?LOOKS TO BE A WINNER IF IT FITS - GOOD LUCK!!
Did he say if the material was rubber?LOOKS TO BE A WINNER IF IT FITS - GOOD LUCK!!
Will give a full report once I get the unit and fit it.Did he say if the material was rubber?
I had a brain fart, none of this is relevant as I have been mixing up Aussie and American Fury's.Have a look at these and see if this could set you off in the right direction.
Volkswagen Restoration Parts | New VW Parts | Volkswagon: Steering Coupler, Rubber,OE Mexico Dealer
84950 - Steering Coupler - Ingalls Engineering Co., Inc.
1968-1969 Nova Steering Coupler Rag Joint For Manual Steering Fine Thread
More Information for LARES 201
Finding the right unit shouldn't be hard, just a matter of knowing the diameter of your steering shaft, even for F150's use this coupler.
More Information for DORMAN 31004
Okay I got the coupler in the mail today, it fits well with a bit of work, it needs the holes partially drilled out to accept the hex head of the nuts mopars use, but you could use standard bolts that are longer. The unit is a bit thicker than the original but I didnt have any problem with that. Check the pics. At $26 it is far cheaper than the NOS ones for $200.
View attachment 78764 View attachment 78765 View attachment 78766
The OEM bolt shaft size fits the 8mm hole like a glove and what I did is drill halfway down into the holes, two opposite holes on one side then repeated this process from the other side for the remaining two holes. This allowed the hex head to slide in and bottom out inside the new coupler with just enough of the bolt showing at the other end to put the split pins in. The assembly was put in the car today and it all slipped in without any issues.That doesn't look like the same coupler that was on your car... correct?
Are you using another setup to verify the fit?
I contacted the seller last week asking him for the dimensions. I had sent you a PM asking you to compare those dimensions - if you responded it could have saved you the trouble to drilling out the holes. The seller said the bolt hole was an 8mm. I went to Lowe's to check on hex head bolt sizes and the 8mm was too large to fit in the recessed hole of the OEM rag joint, but a 5/16 x 1-1/4 fit perfectly. I don't have an actual OEM hex bolt available so I can't compare it to the 5/16" I got from Lowe's. I know you're bolts are OEM, but just wanting to double check. If the Range Rovers hole size is indeed a 5/16 then that would be the replacement bolts to use and yours it too big. I can't imagine RR using a smaller than 5/16" hex bolt. If one were to use a 5/16 replacement bolt, the only difference is it wouldn't have the cotter key hole, but a lock washer should be sufficient - unless you want to drill a hole.
As far as the RR rag joint, other than the bolt head size, the only real difference I see is the thickness which is just a 1/4" thicker than OEM and shouldn't be a problem at all. That was a good find Wollfen!
The OEM bolt shaft size fits the 8mm hole like a glove and what I did is drill halfway down into the holes, two opposite holes on one side then repeated this process from the other side for the remaining two holes. This allowed the hex head to slide in and bottom out inside the new coupler with just enough of the bolt showing at the other end to put the split pins in. The assembly was put in the car today and it all slipped in without any issues.
My Bouchillon aluminum coupler (biscuit) is with the car in the shop. I should know something soon...
Thank you for all the info! I bought the last one(Range Rover) he had on E Bay and received it yesterday. This is for my 66 Fury. I am choosing to grind the the width a little closer to the original size, open the holes for the bolt head like you did, then install. Thanks again!Oh and yes, this assembly is what originally came out of my car.
Thank you for all the info! I bought the last one(Range Rover) he had on E Bay and received it yesterday. This is for my 66 Fury. I am choosing to grind the the width a little closer to the original size, open the holes for the bolt head like you did, then install. Thanks again!
I did try to fit the new one in and it was a struggle and didn't seem to want to go. Something would have to be adjusted one way or another for it to fit.dcjoe22, you might find that the extra 1/4" would fit ok and you won't have to grind it down. As for the drilling out the bolt hole, first check at Lowe's or HD to see if a 5/16" hex bolt will fit without the need to drill out the hole and report back!
You mean because it's too thick? On my 66tc the column has a spring which allows one to collapse it a bit. I had 1/4" gap so that Range Rover joint would have fit for me.I did try to fit the new one in and it was a struggle and didn't seem to want to go. Something would have to be adjusted one way or another for it to fit.
Hey Frank, can we see a larger pic of the steering box, coupler and where the steering column comes through the firewall? That way in one picture we can get an idea of whats up, cheers,My aluminum coupler was a bust for 2 reasons. My mechanic is a stickler and since the Bouchillion packaging says "for off-road use only" he didn't like and it didn't fit right anyway.
I did, however, luck out and found a guy with a storage unit full of 65-67 parts! I bought a complete tilt floor shift steering column complete with a really good oem coupler. I'm going to clean it up and try to install it, and we'll see if it realigns my wormshaft at all. If it doesn't, there must be an incorrect steering box in the car. I'll address that if I have to.