Steering coupler needed

Hey Frank, can we see a larger pic of the steering box, coupler and where the steering column comes through the firewall? That way in one picture we can get an idea of whats up, cheers,
Gary
The car is not here right now, but those pics, or close to that, were posted in this thread.
 
Obviously I am a blind idiot, could you please point out where the steering box in plain sight is in this pic and where the firewall opening shows in the pic too. This is your picture below.
rag-joint fcbo.jpg
 
dcjoe22, the spring I was referring to (if you have) so that you should be able to fit that ranger rover rag joint by pushing "IN" on the shaft, can be seen in Franks post #39.
 
My aluminum coupler was a bust for 2 reasons. My mechanic is a stickler and since the Bouchillion packaging says "for off-road use only" he didn't like and it didn't fit right anyway.

I did, however, luck out and found a guy with a storage unit full of 65-67 parts! I bought a complete tilt floor shift steering column complete with a really good oem coupler. I'm going to clean it up and try to install it, and we'll see if it realigns my wormshaft at all. If it doesn't, there must be an incorrect steering box in the car. I'll address that if I have to.



Does anyone happen to know what the purpose of the "pig-tail spring" that goes through the center of the rag joint and attaches to both sides of the rag joints hex studs is for? To me it doesn't appear to do anything....
 
This is a better view of the firewell end, and some of the steering head.

Looks to me that Something is really amiss there for that angle to be so abrupt. It looks like you just replaced your exhaust pipe. In both your previous photo and this one the pipe angle seems to be the deciding factor of why the angle of the couplers shaft is skewed the way it is. I wouldn't think the factory would have designed it that way, but ???? Can you get ahold of a pic of someone else's Fury to compare?

If you're staying with drum brakes, at least get a dual circuit master for safety reasons...
 
Does anyone happen to know what the purpose of the "pig-tail spring" that goes through the center of the rag joint and attaches to both sides of the rag joints hex studs is for? To me it doesn't appear to do anything....

It is used for the grounding of the horn wiring , because the rag joint is rubber

Cheers

ken
 
Does anyone happen to know what the purpose of the "pig-tail spring" that goes through the center of the rag joint and attaches to both sides of the rag joints hex studs is for? To me it doesn't appear to do anything....

It is used for the grounding of the horn wiring , because the rag joint is rubber

Frank, could please post a picture of this spring? Mine is missing and I'm trying to find an OEM looking replacement.
Maybe I can build one myself from spring wire using your picture.
Or does anyone know where to get one of these? Part number is 2768287 (not that I could find anything with that...).
 
I have seen that picture, but what does the other end look like? Is it simply mirrored and twisted by 90 degrees to match one of the bolts of the upper steering shaft?
 
Yes it is twisted and connects at 90 degrees. Mine was broken also so I just replaced that piece with a hard wire so the connection would be made.
 
That is why I ordered one......$27 as opposed to $170 for a NOS/OEM one....... yea....I'll run a drill through, like Wollfen, works for me!
 
just received the coupling in the mail from the UK, quick!!!! Now to drill it out and make it work!
 
I thought I was a hero for discovering that the Jaguar/Landrover coupling is the same.... always late to the party! However, solves a BIG problem for those of us in the UK!

My big problem is that while the holes do line up & the allen bolts fit just fine - it's too thick & i can't see a way around it? My shaft has no movement in any direction?
 
I thought I was a hero for discovering that the Jaguar/Landrover coupling is the same.... always late to the party! However, solves a BIG problem for those of us in the UK!

My big problem is that while the holes do line up & the allen bolts fit just fine - it's too thick & i can't see a way around it? My shaft has no movement in any direction?
I had the same problem, so I had the thickness ground to the same size as the old one, then counterbored the holes so the bolt head would fit. Dropped right in! Of course, I work in a machine shop, so it was no extra $$ for me.
 
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