Store bought or homemade tape for timing?

[GG-1]

Some sort of purple degreaser or simple green would have sufficed.

I see that now.. I'll be going back with some warm soapy water to clean it all away.. and see what's truly left of the damage done. It was late so I had to walk away from the whole mess until I can return to the garage in another week.
I'll certainly have to remove my steering box and steering pump to repaint them, once again. The first time was after getting them back from Steer & Gear after the rebuilds--with the bad rattle can job they did, still wet, sticking to the packing paper. I had to strip them down to bare metal, then professionally prep & spray them myself with several coats.. waited a whole two weeks to cure properly before reinstalling-- I did a beautiful job getting them to that factory satin.. no way around it, gotta do that all over again.

 

[GG-1]

Does anyone have any first hand experience using the Gates power steering pressure hose sold by RockAuto?

 

[GG-1]

What brand brake cleaner did you get? I would not have advised using it for cleanup, but I'm surprised it did that much damage.

I either need to stay away from it or buy a case.....

It was a new can of CRC Brakleen that I had just bought for the carb rebuild but did not end up using. That stuff is NOT a product anyone should EVER be spraying indiscriminately all over your 50 year old 14K miles, all original dream car. Where was my head?

 

[65sporty]

I have never used one from Rock auto but have used Gates among other brands. Gates is good stuff.

 

[cantflip]

It was a new can of CRC Brakleen that I had just bought for the carb rebuild but did not end up using. That stuff is NOT a product anyone should EVER be spraying indiscriminately all over your 50 year old 14K miles, all original dream car. Where was my head?

FWIW the P/S fluid was as much or more to blame for the paint damage. Some things are beyond our control. As mentioned, there are lots of degreaser products that would be more kind to the plastics and finishes. Brake fluid is water soluble, for other messes you do need at least some dish detergent to wash away the mess before it has too much time to hurt the paint.

I would still count it a win if you didn't hurt any exterior finishes. And... try to get some seat time in her this season before you knock yourself out redoing the under hood detail.

Nice job with the carb

 

[GJS]

Awesome news! Glad to hear that she's feeling better. As for the PS mess, as DetMatt and Cantflip said, grab some simple green, clean up, fix the leak and drive her before the snow comes. Plenty o time to get all anal about detailing during the freezing months.

Congrats, Man. I'm almost as relieved as I'd have been if it was my own car.

 

[GG-1]

FWIW the P/S fluid was as much or more to blame for the paint damage. Some things are beyond our control. As mentioned, there are lots of degreaser products that would be more kind to the plastics and finishes. Brake fluid is water soluble, for other messes you do need at least some dish detergent to wash away the mess before it has too much time to hurt the paint.

I would still count it a win if you didn't hurt any exterior finishes. And... try to get some seat time in her this season before you knock yourself out redoing the under hood detail.

Nice job with the carb

You mean brake cleaner is water soluble, not brake fluid? It was brake cleaner that I used to spray everything down. Still a lot of dex/merc fluid all over too, which is what I use in my steering system.

 

[cantflip]

You mean brake cleaner is water soluble, not brake fluid? It was brake cleaner that I used to spray everything down. Still a lot of dex/merc fluid all over too, which is what I use in my steering system.

Brake clean is a solvent... and some formulas are very harsh... never use brake clean to clean a painted finish you are trying to preserve. brake clean is the wrong cleaner for brake fluid... lots of water and maybe a mild detergent is all you should use. Water will do little for other fluids and many of them can also attack paint... so a degreasing agent and lots of water... resist the urge to scrub.

I never think about DOT5... but silicone fluid is much safer for paint... flush and mild detergent should get rid of the worst... IDK what other cleaners to use for it.

 

[detmatt]

I replace the fluid in my Imp to dot 5.

 

[GG-1]

I replace the fluid in my Imp to dot 5.

for your steering system?

 

[GG-1]

Brake clean is a solvent... and some formulas are very harsh... never use brake clean to clean a painted finish you are trying to preserve. brake clean is the wrong cleaner for brake fluid... lots of water and maybe a mild detergent is all you should use. Water will do little for other fluids and many of them can also attack paint... so a degreasing agent and lots of water... resist the urge to scrub.

I never think about DOT5... but silicone fluid is much safer for paint... flush and mild detergent should get rid of the worst... IDK what other cleaners to use for it.

Ok yes, but I am not cleanining up brake fluid.. it is atf fluid from my power steering hose.
Yes, brake clean was a mistake and I just learned my lesson the hard way.

And yes, warm soapy water will be best for cleaning up this fluid.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

for your steering system?

No they are on to your brakes because you mentioned brake clean, ignore them they are easily distracted.
New rule, no brake clean on paint.
Carry on.

 

[Ripinator]

Update:

It was the carburetor!

The Good:
Late afternoon yesterday, I installed the $50 ebay special AFB 4299S I had freshly rebuilt the day before. I turned the key forward once for about 4 seconds and she fired right up!
She ran strong & steady. Vacuum was strong at 21"hg, with some vibration on the needle within a very tight range (20-21"hg). Timing found itself at about 10 degrees at idle, and dwell was at an absolutely perfect 30 degrees. The choke valve cracked open about 1/8", but even once warm it didn't open up much more than that. I still need help fine tuning, setting up and adjusting the fast idle screw, fast idle cam, choke, step down, curb idle, and air-fuel mixture-- all of which I do not yet have a full understanding of, especially getting them to all work together in perfect harmony. Upon start up, she was idling pretty high at 1200 rpms.. the only thing I did was bumped the throttle linkage and she kicked down slightly to about 800rpm..from there I turned the curb idle screw down and got her idling at about 500rpm, which is to FSM specs. FSM fast idle spec btw is 700 rpm. Before bolting it on I had turned the fuel/mixture screws 2 full turns out each. She was running good, without rpms dropping out, no hesitation, stalling, and without getting untouchably hot. The throttle has a little bit of sticking on its return to idle, which needs addressing.
So I let her get up to temp, and took her out for a little ride. She went into gear no problem, and despite the steering being in need of a good alignment.. and the brakes needing to be adjusted and bled.. she drove extremely well!
She really moved--fast and smooth on the acceleration, transmission shifted beautifully as I took her steadily up to about 40-45mph.
As tempting as it was, I didn't want to push it by going any faster or by opening up the secondaries(its been a while since she's driven) I did take her about 1/4 mile to get gas. Even at the stop lights she behaved well- no hesitation or tendency to stall.. although a bit fast on the idle due to the slight stickyness right at the very end of the throttle return. I was beaming with satisfaction on the return drive to the garage...

The Not So Good: ...when about a block away there is a ton of smoke coming from the engine. When I get her back and opened the hood, I see fluid all over everything on the drivers side of the engine compartment.. I mean everything covered and dripping. Turns out that my ps pressure hose sprung a good sized pin hole leak, which under load and steering was spraying fluid everywhere. An oily mess.
After wiping everything down, it was advised that I liberally spray it all down with brakecleen fluid to wash it all away. So I did it. Never again. It removed and damaged paint and plastic parts instantly. Power steering pump that I meticulously repainted and cured is a mess. The brand new plastic check valve nipples on my brake booster became so brittle that they simply fell off while I was wiping brake fluid off them. The original factory red oxide primer peeled off everywhere too. So now I need a new booster check valve and a new pressure hose. I want to replace it with a quality hose ASAP.. anyone with a good working hose for sale or suggestions where to buy are much appreciated.. it's for a small 1967 trw pump.

So my procurement and rebuild of the carburetor a major success in more ways than one, despite the fact that it still needs the lost art of choke adjustment applied.

Alex

I feel like an immaculate conception has just occurred, and I'm almost as relieved as you are. Major kudos to you for your perseverance and excellent effort.

 

[GG-1]

My new Gates pressure hose has just arrived and looks correct and better than I expected.. the step down in hose gauge(from the center coupler) is correct, which was cause for concern as it was not apparent in the stock photo advertised. All bends and angles look good too. Appears to be a well made product.. I will install soon and report back.

 

[GJS]

View attachment 140533 My new Gates pressure hose has just arrived and looks correct and better than I expected.. the step down in hose gauge(from the center coupler) is correct, which was cause for concern as it was not apparent in the stock photo advertised. All bends and angle look good too. Appears to be a well made product.. I will install soon and report back.

Best of luck with it! Can't wait to see your findings as my entire PS system has gotta be dealt with... mostly pissing out the gear box but a few other places too.
Can't wait to see that thing on the road!

 

[GG-1]

Reunited. Good thing I put my durable, factory check valve aside before having Dewey rebuild the booster.. it's back in where it belongs. Booster Dewey did a fantastic job rebuilding it, but the way they manufacture those newer check valves is poor.
I called and told him what happened, and he sent another(newer)valve right out to me.. he knows.

 

[GG-1]

I have just replaced the pressure hose and it fits like a glove.. I've even reused the sliding foam sleeve from the factory hose.
I've just set up my vacuum gauge on the manifold, and have got my timing/dwell/rpm gun all hooked up too. But, before I fire her up, while she's cold, I'd like to adjust the choke on the carburetor, and Im hoping someone reading this could assist me in doing that. Right now, the choke valve/butterfly is completely closed by spring tension.. I can push it open by hand against that spring tension, but would like to know how to set it properly where it will open when fully warm, and click shut as I depress pedal to prime when cold again. This is an auto with a divorced choke (thermostat coil in the manifold).. Ive been looking in my FSM, youtube, forums, and still do not understand how to adjust this.. any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[GG-1]

View attachment 140670 View attachment 140669 View attachment 140668 View attachment 140667
I have just replaced the pressure hose and it fits like a glove.. I've even reused the sliding foam sleeve from the factory hose.
I've just set up my vacuum gauge on the manifold, and have got my timing/dwell/rpm gun all hooked up too. But, before I fire her up, while she's cold, I'd like to adjust the choke on the carburetor, and Im hoping someone reading this could assist me in doing that. Right now, the choke valve/butterfly is completely closed by spring tension.. I can push it open by hand against that spring tension, but would like to know how to set it properly where it will open when fully warm, and click shut as I depress pedal to prime when cold again. This is an auto with a divorced choke (thermostat coil in the manifold).. Ive been looking in my FSM, youtube, forums, and still do not understand how to adjust this.. any help would be greatly appreciated!

Okay, well in case you would also like to know how, this article just about says it all: Adjusting Automatic Chokes: A Semi-Universal Approach

Now to put it all into practice.

 

[GJS]

Okay, well in case you would also like to know how, this article just about says it all: Adjusting Automatic Chokes: A Semi-Universal Approach

Now to put it all into practice.

Good luck, man! I went the easy (but ugly) way with my last car and installed a manual choke ..

 

[GG-1]

Happy Sunday dear C-friends,

So here's a riddle..

On Wednesday I installed the new pressure hose, and when I went to fire her up, she cranked but would not fire. Flooded.
I examined the carb and found fuel dripping from the mixture screw and primary throttle shaft, but ONLY on the drivers side of the carb.. it was filling up with fuel on that side, but why? What happened since I drove her last?
So I removed the carb again and took her home to go through again.
Got it apart last night and here are my findings:

-floats: no leaks, perfect level and drop height.
-needle and seats are tight and clear, not blocked and operating smoothly.
-all four jets are 100% clear.
-metering rods great.
-accelerator pump working well and installed to spec.
-all gaskets holding their seals well.. no leaking.
-idle pick up tubes and all passages in venturis, and all passages in general are free of debris and blockages.
-vacuum pull off functioning correctly.
For good measure I blew out all passages again with cleaner and compressed air.
I then decide to pull the brass seat/jet that screws into wall between the float bowl and the accelerator pump bore(pictured). I found This "seat" has a little check ball inside, and there was also a tiny spring attached to two little tabs across the diameter of the seat(on the float bowl side)..
I can't help but wonder if when blowing air through the passage during my rebuild, that maybe this spring spun around to its current position, causing the ball to block fuel from circulating into the system and flooding out that side of the carb... ?
Question is, do any of our great C-Minds know if the spring pictured is in correctly? Should it be straight in the seat(run the length of the seat), under the check ball on the other side??

It is a riddle google has been unable to answer.. and I thought you all might shed a light.
What is the correct position of the tiny spring and check ball pictured inside the brass seat..
The carb is put back together and I am back at the garage today(just now) and would like to correct it if necessary before reinstalling and potentially flooding out again.. otherwise, I can't imagine what is causing the flood out.

ps. hope you enjoy the handy diagrams.

Thank you!

Deeply breathing,

Alex & GG