Store bought or homemade tape for timing?

[GG-1]

Wait, is this carb cleaner any good?

What I do know is that my factory carb was constantly full of mostly fine sediment from the rusty fuel tank(before I replaced fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel pump, and fuel filters).. that's why I sent it out in the first place.. to get it back and bolt it on with an utterly clean fuel system behind it.. and my guess now is that the rebuilder did not properly clean/blow out everything, .. causing remaining trapped rust sediment to move to and fro, blocking fuel from flowing and causing lean out fuckery. Scott at HARMS also brought this up and claims sometimes it takes a couple of attempts to douche out completely.

 

[cantflip]

Anyone got a good carb guy they can recommend.. one who is good at rebuilding carbs like mine?

or perhaps I should give it a go.

I've decided to get this one:
CARTER CARB> 4299s FITS 1967 MOPAR 383 AT
It's $50 dollars and can be cleaned up and/or rebuilt for less than a new edelbrock, and it's the exact stock carb model I want. It will fit right on immediately.

Even if my mechanic takes the car during the next week or two, he's gonna need to have one carburetor in working order to proceed. Why not have two ready. So in the meantime, my original carb shop gets my factory model done(again).. and I get this $50 model done. If the car falters in the exact same way with the $50 unit on her, then I know the issue is elsewhere.

Worst case is I'll have two stock 4299s models. Best case is they both run perfectly.
And I can jet each one differently for easy changeouts.

Basic carb rebuild= careful disassembly, thorough cleaning, inspect throttle shaft(s), replace the accelerator pump, replace needle and seat, inspect the float(s) and reset, any other settings checked according to the instruction sheet that comes with the kit or in the FSM, replace power valve if equipped, test/replace any vacuum pull offs, inspect and reset choke and idle screws...

As intimidating as this may seem, most are actually pretty simple and could be done by most folks who have the ambition and are patient. IDK much about the specialty carburetor business, but I would want to believe those folks are checking throttle shafts and installing bushings for the worn out ones (not as simple as it sounds for most carbs) and they should be checking for warped throttle plates, bodies and air horns and correcting/condemning the parts that fail.

Because you are not worried about a fresh look and have been so hands on until now, I would say you should look for rebuild kit availability and order one when you win your auction. Kits used to be cheap, don't go this route if all you can find is NOS... 30 year old kits may have dried out components and wouldn't make an ideal situation for a first time... plus the price.

Tech tip... don't mess with the jets, unless you are sure you won't damage/ruin them... or have replacements on hand if you try. I have seen the inside of several carbs where the jets were mangled by previous attempts.

There are others more wise than I am with carburetor rebuilding, but many problems are solved with a quick and dirty rebuild... a full remanufacturing with a new finish is over the top for someone who just wants it to work in many cases.

 

[cantflip]

BTW... I actually don't have a need for another 3406, I have a couple cores for experimenting when I get around to it... I seem to run more directions in my head than my *** can keep up with.

But I seldom get first "DIBS" on anything...

 

[Ripinator]

. . . also, i agree with matt. this is a forum for discussing car issues. alex is informed and knows where he's going, but there are plenty of others reading this who may be interested in alternate solutions.

Well. . . Alrighty again, then!

 

[rags]

the afb is the bunny slope of carburetor repair and tuning.

 

[commando1]

I used Scott Harm for my Thermoquad. He's expensive but you get back a carb that would exceed mfgrs. specs.

 

[GG-1]

Most frequently recommended replacement carb is the Edelbrock 1406, along with the required linkage kit.

Thanks. I've also heard very good things about the Carter 9636-SA AFB 625cfm as a replacement on the Chrysler 383hp.. a 'set it and forget it' high performance upgrade to my factory model. Also can be found all day used and running for around $100.
Anyone gone this way?
However, yesterday I did win the AFB 4299s auction for $50.. so I'll try that one first.

 

[rags]

the one that was in storage for thirty years? if it was new in a box in storage for thirty years, with a leather accelerator pump, the pump would at the very least be junk. think of it as your first fifty dollar payment for your carb. rebuilding 101 course. couldn't ask for an easier carb. to start with tho.

 

[GG-1]

the one that was in storage for thirty years? if it was new in a box in storage for thirty years, with a leather accelerator pump, the pump would at the very least be junk. think of it as your first fifty dollar payment for your carb. rebuilding 101 course. couldn't ask for an easier carb. to start with tho.

Yes, that very one.
I will bolt it on straight from the fed ex box it comes in.. then I will start the car.

 

[rags]

you'd have a better chance bolting the fedex box on. gotta hand it to you, you got moxie. just please don't hurt that car.

 

[GG-1]

you'd have a better chance bolting the fedex box on. gotta hand it to you, you got moxie. just please don't hurt that car.

The cardboard box I used to send my original carburetor to a "proper rebuild" shop" last october has performed much better than the $300 rebuild itself.. which seems to have already damaged the engine. Not only can I not drive the car now at all, I can't even run the car at idle without it leaning out, heating up and blowing a seal somewhere- losing all vacuum pressure... in less than 10 minutes.. at idle! That and the rpms I set at 700 mysteriously always drop down so low it stalls out before I can even accelerate forward one inch, no matter how much throttle.
So much for doing things the right way and letting a professional clean it out.. which is all I needed done to it from the get go.

But I digress.

Any experience with either of these products for getting all the parts moving again on a 30 year old carb thats been sitting?

Or should I just soak it in milk overnight, with my chicken livers in the fridge?

 

[rags]

never used either one. i'm strictly a cyclo guy. bottom line is if it says "extremely flammable" on the can, you're probably good. the more harmful the chemicals, the better. if you're not going to open the carb. up first, be aware that the needles could be stuck open which would allow raw gas to pump out through the vents. this is how an engine fire can happen. be prepared to shut it down quick if it should start. again, please be careful.

 

[saylor]

b-12 chemtool is the 3rd best thing on the planet.

the overspray splash in your eyes burns so good.

try not to die -

- saylor

 

[GG-1]

Hmmm.. with 26 gallons of fuel, high voltage and wild sparks it might be safe to say that the entire car is extremely flammable. I'll be careful.

I guess this means I'll need to cut the zip tie off my little fire extinguisher now.

Perhaps partial disassembly of the ebay carb is in order; needle/valve/float freedom and accelerator pump function?

 

[GG-1]

 

[cantflip]

Hmmm.. with 26 gallons of fuel, high voltage and wild sparks it might be safe to say that the entire car is extremely flammable. I'll be careful.

I guess this means I'll need to cut the zip tie off my little fire extinguisher now.

Perhaps partial disassembly of the ebay carb is in order; needle/valve/float freedom and accelerator pump function?

This...

the one that was in storage for thirty years? if it was new in a box in storage for thirty years, with a leather accelerator pump, the pump would at the very least be junk. think of it as your first fifty dollar payment for your carb. rebuilding 101 course. couldn't ask for an easier carb. to start with tho.

Find/order the kit now and it could all arrive at the same time.

 

[GG-1]

the one that was in storage for thirty years? if it was new in a box in storage for thirty years, with a leather accelerator pump, the pump would at the very least be junk. think of it as your first fifty dollar payment for your carb. rebuilding 101 course. couldn't ask for an easier carb. to start with tho.

Well, it is the factory carb for my car.. so I'm happy to start with that one, lol.

I've just learned that the ebay seller who charged me $17.00 to ship a 7lb box from Idaho to Brooklyn cheaped out on shipping, and now my AFB 4299s is touring the country via FedEx "smart post" (******* idiot post), and will get to me in slow, sweet time.. 14 days after purchase. The 26th of August.

So in the meantime I have a rebuild kit coming from Mikes Carburetors. I've been studying up on the Carter AFB 4299s and am tempted to pull off my factory carb and go through it myself, rather than send it to my original rebuilder again. I just hate sitting around waiting while summer days, day after day after day, continue to burn on by! Who knows what I might find, and at least now I know what to look for. But no.. I think I'll stick with traintechs steady advice and wait to get the "new" carb.. and also go with rags and cantflips encouragement to take my time and rebuild it.. then bolt it on, and run it. This way, by not messing with my factory carb, I will still have recourse under warranty with that carb shop. Only 7 more days.. a good day or two to rebuild it.. and ignition. If it runs well, then I drive it over to my local mechanic for front end alignment and other diagnostics.
Thanks for sticking with me everybody!!!

 

[cantflip]

Well, it is the factory carb for my car.. so I'm happy to start with that one, lol.

I've just learned that the ebay seller who charged me $17.00 to ship a 7lb box from Idaho to Brooklyn cheaped out on shipping, and now my AFB 4299s is touring the country via FedEx "smart post" (******* idiot post), and will get to me in slow, sweet time.. 14 days after purchase. The 26th of August.

So in the meantime I have a rebuild kit coming from Mikes Carburetors. I've been studying up on the Carter AFB 4299s and am tempted to pull off my factory carb and go through it myself, rather than send it to my original rebuilder again. I just hate sitting around waiting while summer days, day after day after day, continue to burn on by! Who knows what I might find, and at least now I know what to look for. But no.. I think I'll stick with traintechs steady advice and wait to get the "new" carb.. and also go with rags and cantflips encouragement to take my time and rebuild it.. then bolt it on, and run it. This way, by not messing with my factory carb, I will still have recourse under warranty with that carb shop. Only 7 more days.. a good day or two to rebuild it.. and ignition. If it runs well, then I drive it over to my local mechanic for front end alignment and other diagnostics.
Thanks for sticking with me everybody!!!

At this point I would ship off the one you've got warranty on, and when the next one arrives give her a quick refresh and see if it works.

 

[GG-1]

Only issue your going to run into with the Eddy 1406 and linkage kit is how you run your choke.
With an eddy its either manual or electric. Personally, I'd just go the electric route. Its an easy wiring job and you can just keep all your original choke components with your carter for future use.

If I were to get a 1406, say at a major discount new in the box in craigslist, then where do I get a linkage kit for my application? Do I order that from edelbrock?

 

[GJS]

If I were to get a 1406, say at a major discount new in the box in craigslist, then where do I get a linkage kit for my application? Do I order that from edelbrock?

Summit will have it.