Strange Thing Happened Today

[rexus31]

I would start by looking at the carb. How does the car run at cruise? You could have a problem with the idle circuit

That's what I'm thinking. I have a spare AFB that I'm going to try on Friday or Saturday. It runs fine at speed. The issue is on deceleration and idle.

 

[F Preston]

I've repaired OEM fuse links for years - they usually become intermittent at the firewall molex connector.

By the looks of your firewall - your 300 must be a gorgeous car.

 

[Ripinator]

I've repaired OEM fuse links for years - they usually become intermittent at the firewall molex connector.

By the looks of your firewall - your 300 must be a gorgeous car.

Nah. . . Rex's car totally sucks, and so does he. . .

 

[commando1]

I've repaired OEM fuse links for years - they usually become intermittent at the firewall molex connector.

By the looks of your firewall - your 300 must be a gorgeous car.

Repaired or replaced?

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[rexus31]

I've repaired OEM fuse links for years - they usually become intermittent at the firewall molex connector.

By the looks of your firewall - your 300 must be a gorgeous car.

If the spare carb doesn't resolve the issue, I'll look deeper into the Fusible Link. I still think it is fuel related. From what everyone tells me, all electrical from the firewall back would be dead if it were the Fusible Link. That's not the case in my scenario.

Thanks for the compliments on the car. Here's the thread of the restoration:
http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar...212-1965-Chrysler-300-Convertible-Restoration

 

[polara71]

Nah. . . Rex's car totally sucks, and so does he. . .

Yep... In the Top five on the you suck list

 

[mr. fix it]

Okay here I go with my opinion on what a fusible link does or should act like in an over amped condition.

It acts as a slow blow circuit breaker but when it does pop it is done.

If it happens to reconnect after cooling down then I guess it happens but it probably does becasue it is melted wiring and it fuses itself back together but it will more than likely have a different amp rating after that kind of episode.
The amp rating change may be minimal or great.
I have never seen one that comes back to life other than when I would wriggle it around while having someone try crank the engine over.
If contact internally is made then it would crank.
The smaller gauge link would allow the ignition to fire until it broke again.

I also tested them by pulling on them as well for the really dead FL's. The casing will stretch and break... simple way to test them.
The main difference between the slow blow circuit breaker probably was that it cost about 2c to use a fusible link and 15c to use a slow blow circuit breaker.

 

[Greg B.]

I want Rex to know that despite all the problems with the car, my previous offer of $5500 cash money still stands. I'd be glad to take the problem off your hands. ;)

 

[commando1]

Pffffttt.
I'll go 56...

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[1978 NYB]

I'm at 57.....

 

[commando1]

I'm out.

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[rexus31]

I want Rex to know that despite all the problems with the car, my previous offer of $5500 cash money still stands. I'd be glad to take the problem off your hands. ;)

Pffffttt.
I'll go 56...

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I'm at 57.....

Thanks for the offers to relieve me of my problem. I respectfully decline. Even if you pooled your offers together, you'd be about $8K shy of what I would take for the car.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

The only other problem/ scenario is corrosion inside the insulation but that would have to make a hot spot and would have blown for good. I also don't see any corrosion with enough balls to get anywhere near Scott's car. I'm sticking to fuel.

 

[polara71]

Thanks for the offers to relieve me of my problem. I respectfully decline. Even if you pooled your offers together, you'd be about $8K shy of what I would take for the car.

Dont sell yourself or that car short......... If it were mine I would have to double what your talking for me to consider it

 

[F Preston]

Repaired or replaced?

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Repaired - electronics and electricity is my field.

 

[commando1]

Then I'm seriously interested in how its done.
I need to find a take-off some day and slice it open to see what's inside that molded rubber encapsulation.

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[rexus31]

Then I'm seriously interested in how its done.
I need to find a take-off some day and slice it open to see what's inside that molded rubber encapsulation.

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The molded rubber on my original slides right off.

 

[rexus31]

Dont sell yourself or that car short......... If it were mine I would have to double what your talking for me to consider it

Thanks. I think $50K is waaaaaay too much.

 

[Fishfan]

So I thought I would dig up this thread from about a year ago as the issue recently happened again, a couple time; once while coming to a stop and the other time at idle. All the electrical was functioning when the car died, so I do not think it is the Fusible Link. It only dies at idle (low RPM). I think it is a fuel delivery issue because it stumbles a bit before it dies, almost like it is starving for fuel. A while back, I had an ignition issue (bad condenser) and it just died. This is different. I checked my Fuel Pump Pushrod and it measures exactly 3.25" so I know it isn't that. Any other ideas? Carb? Issue with the Idle Circuit? Pump? I would think if it were the pump, it wouldn't just act up at low RPM. Filter? Clogged filter not able to pass fuel enough fuel at low RPM?

My Polara will stall at red lights when AC is on unless I put it neutral (usually this only happens when engine is hot). I tried adjusting the idle mixture screws and that didn't solve it.

 

[polara71]

Thanks. I think $50K is waaaaaay too much.

Go look again