The life and times of an upside down 65' Polara.

NZPolara

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G'day all, thought i'd post a project thread about my 1965 Polara here in New Zealand. An extremely oddball car here, there are lots of old mustangs & chargers and impalas etc but this car is only the second 65' Polara/monaco I've seen, though I do know of a couple more around the country. I've had lots of old u.s cars before but this is my first u.s mopar - I did have an australian valiant for a while (and 2 hillman/chrysler avengers if they count). The hardtop polara reminds me of a VG valiant hardtop on a high fructose corn syrup diet. This particular car was imported ex u.s in 2016, we have a rather harsh compliance regime for new entry vehicles which saw all 4 drums rebuilt, along with rust repairs to the front floorpans & firewall. The couple who imported it used it for school ball duty etc but were unable to look after an old and obscure cars complex needs and the car was beginning to deteriorate.

After getting it home, the first order of business was to thoroughly inspect the car and come up with a plan of attack. Not a bad car at all but as you all know there is always something..

The first thing to do was to grind back and investigate some suspicious blistering on the lower rear quarters and c-pillar, to my great suprise it turned out to just be humidity blisters in the paint - I was prepared for a weldathon.
With that sorted and patches blended, it was on to the engine. Not a bad runner, but running pig rich and a bit sluggish even for a 2 barrel poly in a big car. I put in the first order from rockauto, and replaced the points, condenser, cap, plugs and leads along with the broken vacuum advance. I then set the timing (which was comically retarded), and wound in the carter's fuel screws to a somewhat sane level. The auto choke bimetal thing was long dead, so I attached a choke cable to operate that.

After discovering this awesome forum and reading lots of your helpful posts i then did the underhood ammeter bypass. And started using the car regularly - It's a cool machine.

The original temp and fuel gauges were not working. From yet more great information on this site it was apparent that the instrument voltage regulator had probably failed. Of course it's a bit of a gamble - did the IVR fail with the points closed and fry the gauges?
I looked into the solid state purpose made power supplies. Trouble is being in a small country at the bottom of the world anything ordered in takes weeks to arrive, and often the freight is near equal to the value of the parts. I was tinkering in the shed as usual when I had a thought - I know what supplies 5v and is in a drawer already, a usb supply. So I wired it into the IVR 12v supply with a 5a fuse, butchered an old usb cord and ran it to the 5v supply. Success, gauges work and I have a spare usb port to charge a phone or whatever.

Next thing was to change the tyres. A pity as they were practically new, but I felt wide whitewalls had no place on a 60s mopar. I think the raised white letter tyres look much better.

Of course there is still much to do, next things on the list are

Engine mounts, I have replaced the RHS but the LHS supplied is way off the original, with a single top stud. I intend to modify the bracket to accept it rather than wait (and pay) for another mount.

Outer tie rods, boots are ripped both sides.

A 4 barrel poly manifold & AFB.

A dual circuit master cylinder, because i'd like to die old, rich & drunk.

I should also ask, is it ok to post pictures direct to the forum?

Cheers

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Nice car congrats! Post as many pics as you’d like!!
 
Nice car, but I am partial to 65 Polara's.

I am definitely with you on the whitewall to RWL conversion. much better.
 
Many people perceive that "anything OLD" has to have "gansta walls" on them. NOT accurate by a long shot! Period correct is something they don't know about, apparently. BTAIM

I also know the issue with finding 1" whitewall tires in 15" sizes, so a good RWL can be an option on a Dodge or Plymouth, with their more HP heritage.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
A small update on the dodge, here in nz cars built pre 2000 are subject to a 6 monthly safety inspection. It goes in for that this week, so I thought i'd better get it ready. Both outer tie rod boots were split, I replaced the rod end on the rhs as it looked pretty old and just put a new boot on the left as it looked and felt pretty good. Greased and cleaned up all the joints in the front end, couple of the grease zerks were blocked and/or broken but luckily I had a box of imperial zerks. I did fit the b-body left hand engine mount a while ago, very easy to drill the bracket to suit. In fact I put in two holes so that a left or right hand b body mount can be used in future. I also 'painted' the exhaust manifolds with sprayable graphite - looks great, just like new cast iron and so far unaffected by the heat. I am on the hunt for some parts, specifically a 4 barrel manifold - I feel that will really wake the car up. Also some lower balljoints, the ones on the car look just about new but they won't stay that way forever and I see they are not widely available.

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"6 monthly safety inspection"

That's nuts! What a hassle
Here, (at least in my state) you can throw on some Year-of-Manufacture License plates, get a one time registration inspection, and that's it, no more inspections
 
"6 monthly safety inspection"

That's nuts! What a hassle
Here, (at least in my state) you can throw on some Year-of-Manufacture License plates, get a one time registration inspection, and that's it, no more inspections
Yeah it’s a bit of a pain, quite a strict inspection- a torn steering or suspension boot will fail even if there is no play in the joint. Post 2000 cars get a year and brand new cars get 3 years, it’s an incentive to get old cars off the road. There is a bit of a movement to extend the time for classic cars (40+ years old) but whether it will get anywhere only time will tell.
 
I should also ask, is it ok to post pictures direct to the forum?
Hehe, old habits die hard aye. No longer have to worry about killing people's bandwidth now, or at least, not as much as we used to.
It's a very nice car, but me personally I've never been a fan of the mopar C pillars where it was wider at the top than the bottom, just looked really weird for me.
For what it's worth, the ammeter bypass isn't as big of an issue as people make it out to be - the mopar passenger car ammeters are built very stout and can easily handle halogen high beam headlamp-levels of power flowing through it. The biggest issue is the bulkhead connector - those terminals are just not cut out for the amount of potential power that can end up going through it. The original MAD article which I'm guessing you read as well was addressing the Dodge truck ammeters which were known to melt their plastic, but it doesn't really apply to the passenger cars.
If you're planning on adding more electrical ancillaries the best way would be to wire them to the alternator output stud (or as close as possible on that wire) and using relays to control them from inside the cabin. Relay all the things!
 
Nice car, but I'm partial to them. You can get ball joints from A-RESTO-PARTS directly or from Amazon. Just to prove that you are not alone, my 65 Monaco.

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