The Sheriff

Well don't trust your brothers on Moparts. F' those guys. :mob::soapbox::(:(:(:(:(:mob::mob::mob::mob::soapbox::soapbox::soapbox::soapbox::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead:



So now I sit and wait for a new timing set. Should have known as soon as I set the set up to the shafts and it indicated the cam was 180 out. So I loosen the rocker shafts and spin the cam to get everything lined up. Attempt to slide the crank sprocket and cam sprocket with chain together. Cam gear is 3/8 of an inch short. Must have a link sitting on a tooth says I. Check, nope all good. WTF. Slip the chain off the bottom gear and line up to cam. Hmm the chain hits the block.. No way is this a BBM timing set, I don't care what the box says.

Sigh.

Anywho.
 
errata...

When rotating the assembly before It all came apart, the engine definitely has compression. Sounds and feels like anyother engine I've spun by hand.
 
errata...

Welp turns out the timing chain is actually a Edelbrock 7810. Not a 7804 I was sold. So yes for a big block. Just not a big block Mopar. fugging chevy bites me in the *** again.
 
si. He's a Cap'n PW much like yourself so I assumed with that many posts and reputation he'd be GTG.
 
or not. dunno. doesn't fit my block though. The CompCams one I did order does fit just fine. The offset between the two cam pulleys is very different.
 
Great moogly googly, two teefeses out on the stock timing set.

We're all buttoned back up and running. And she's a monster. Not timed, or retuned yet and great Scott wow what a difference. On the second cold crank rotation it's popped off and screaming she wants to go.


I do have a problem though. I think I have one bent pushrod. I have a clatter at start up that quiets down in about 5 seconds but never goes completely away and stays in time with the exhaust. So assume exhaust side maybe #6 or 8.

Oh I also noticed at idle the oil light isn't lighting/flickering anymore. I assume the cam is back in time with the pump?

I want to drive it but heading to DC on Wednesday and would rather not have to leave it torn down/broken while away due to any issues I create on the shake down.


Thanks cantflip and gjs for the advice
 
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I do have a problem though. I think I have one bent pushrod. I have a clatter at start up that quiets down in about 5 seconds but never goes completely away and stays in time with the exhaust. So assume exhaust side maybe #6 or 8.

Oh I also noticed at idle the oil light isn't lighting/flickering anymore. I assume the cam is back in time with the pump?
The noise problem could be related to the oil light problem, but the timing drive would not be related. IDK what's going on, but double check that issue before going hog wild chasing the push rod idea.

HF will have something like this for cheap...
62621_zzz_500.jpg
 
So you're thinking low pressure?
I don't know how long you had her apart or how deep you got into it. I had mine down and drained (and I replaced the oil pump in the same go) for a few weeks and had to re prime the entire oiling system. Could be low, could be a soft lifter due to a blocked passage or just a faulty lifter. Either way the manual pressure gauge would show something to point you in the right direction.
 
I was thinking since it was two teef off perhaps a valve made contact enough to put a bend in a pushrod. It's definitely on one side of the engine vs the other. I was just going to pull the valve cover start her up and then put pressure on the pushrod side of each rocker to isolate which one it could be. Simple, easy, effective, don't cost nothin', done it before.

Else I was thinking pistons slap. It's not an enjoyable thought. I should be able to pull one plug wire at a time to see if the noise goes away if it is wrist pin or something to that effect no?

Spun cam bearing I would assume would be noisy on both sides of the engine not one.

We'll know for sure when I get back from DC this week.
 
So you're thinking low pressure?


Yeah but the light isn't coming on at idle anymore. No more flicker no nothing. I would think low pressure it'd be lit up like a Christmas tree.

But I'll take your advice and pick up the gauge.
 
I was thinking since it was two teef off perhaps a valve made contact enough to put a bend in a pushrod. It's definitely on one side of the engine vs the other. I was just going to pull the valve cover start her up and then put pressure on the pushrod side of each rocker to isolate which one it could be. Simple, easy, effective, don't cost nothin', done it before.

Else I was thinking pistons slap. It's not an enjoyable thought. I should be able to pull one plug wire at a time to see if the noise goes away if it is wrist pin or something to that effect no?

Spun cam bearing I would assume would be noisy on both sides of the engine not one.

We'll know for sure when I get back from DC this week.
Low pressure for the light issue... could be caused by something as simple as a defective oil filter.

If the timing jumped enough to bend one pushrod/valve... I'd expect it to bend eight.

Piston slap would be a cold problem and clear up... at least mostly as operating temps increase... stethoscope testing is very valuable for pinpointing noises.
 
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