67Monaco
Old Man with a Hat
I did the poor mans in an emergency stethoscope, steel rod held up my ear and placed around the valve cover, intake, and block where I could get to.
The Sheriff
- Thread starter 67Monaco
- Start date
I did the poor mans in an emergency stethoscope, steel rod held up my ear and placed around the valve cover, intake, and block where I could get to.
GJS
Senior Member
When I toasted my wrist pin in my 440 it was a way different sound than a bent pushrod or a dead lifter. Timing of the noise too would tell you something: if it were a piston it'd be twice the time of one lifter/pushrod/valve... (if I'm not gettn that backwards .. i'm pretty sure im not but it's early.)
67Monaco
Old Man with a Hat
Yeah that's why I'm pushed to something in the valvetrain since it seems to be in time with the exhaust note.
Lots of things it could be, won't anything until I get back, which sucks.
67Monaco
Old Man with a Hat
Hey worse comes to worse I throw a 250 shot of NO2 at it and see what breaks.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Now your making sense. Find the weak points and fix them.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Rebuild the engine.
67Monaco
Old Man with a Hat
For a noisy rocker.. Pshaw...
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Hey. I had tiny clack clack clack going on in the white NYB and I pulled the engine....
67Monaco
Old Man with a Hat
And it was?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Never found out. I rebuilt the engine.
No more clack clack clack, though.
And new cars come with gas in 'em. . .
67Monaco
Old Man with a Hat
I have a '03 4.7L with non stop clack clack clack and 194K miles. it ain't comin' apart until it stops clack clack clackin'.
440 might be slightly different. But so long as she sounds mostly happy not gun do it.
440 might be slightly different. But so long as she sounds mostly happy not gun do it.
67Monaco
Old Man with a Hat
Let's see whatcha think.
60psi cold idle at 6-700rpm.
Between 18-20 psi hot at idle 650-700rpm
Hot, bump that to about 2000rpm and I see 50psi.
60psi cold idle at 6-700rpm.
Between 18-20 psi hot at idle 650-700rpm
Hot, bump that to about 2000rpm and I see 50psi.
67Monaco
Old Man with a Hat
Oh.... The clack pretty much went away. I mean I still have valvetrain noise but not like it was. Maybe a piece of dirt or maybe a pushrod reseated? I dunno.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Dump in two bottles of STP and the noise will go away altogether.
If that doesn't do it, try a third.
If that doesn't do it, try a third.
67Monaco
Old Man with a Hat
C'mon man. It's just normal valvetrain noise now. Stp ain't gonna help. If I thought it would, I have a pound of some 70nm hBN I can use for an additive over time.
67Monaco
Old Man with a Hat
Pulled 22 inches at idle with about 20 degrees in it. Backed it down to about 19 inches. Hooked everything up and changed oil to 10w40 by Driven. Hopefully it's good. Says it's got extra Zddp and electrolytes. Driven it's what hot rods crave.
Driven HR 10W-40 High Zinc Petroleum Hot Rod Oil
Driven HR 10W-40 High Zinc Petroleum Hot Rod Oil
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65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
Pressure is good
The flicker you had before is because of all the crap in the pickup screen starving it at idle
That's too funny
67Monaco
Old Man with a Hat
No what I was saying was, after the timing chain went in, the light stopped flickering.
As to the screen being plugged, I cleared all that when the pan was off. I figured that's what was causing it to flicker. But it did it even after I cleared the screen. In the end I chalked it up to a finicky pressure switch.
I still lean that way but can't explain why it stopped post timing chain.
As to the screen being plugged, I cleared all that when the pan was off. I figured that's what was causing it to flicker. But it did it even after I cleared the screen. In the end I chalked it up to a finicky pressure switch.
I still lean that way but can't explain why it stopped post timing chain.
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