For Sale This will PISS YOU OFF. 71 Fury GT

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Why? Is the seller looking for a green one?
:rofl:

It is owned by a friend.
And he doesn't want to sell it currently.
He would consider another nicely optioned one, too but he needs AC to be happy

Carsten
 
I think if you do a Re-Bodie soley for Financial gain then That is A ******* move and You should never try and Doop someone into thinking its Genuine. But if you want the Car just for yourself, I dont see much Harm in it.

Say you had a 69 Charger that needs 1 of Everything, By the time there is all New AMD panels on the car, You now have a 69 Charger that is Basically made in Taiwan. This is just how i feel but i Much rather have a Charger with as Much OE American steel as possible. Of course there is some pride there but it is more about using Quality original parts, Which just Can't be beat.
 
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Id fix it.....

I see a restoration here. I'm with "Wollfen",... I would fix it too.

This is a very rare car here folks,.......71 SFGT 375 produced.

I know of a non rusty/solid 71 parts car for $1200,.$2000 for a GT,....seems like very fair money to get into rare executive muscle..............
 
I think if you do a Re-Bodie soley for Financial gain then That is A ******* move and You should never try and Doop someone into thinking its Genuine. But if you want the Car just for yourself, I dont see much Harm in it.

Say you had a 69 Charger that needs 1 of Everything, Buy the time there is all New AMD panels on the car, You now have a 69 Charger that is Basically made in Taiwan. This is just how i feel but i Much rather have a Charger with as Much OE American steel as possible. Of course there is some pride there but it is more about using Quality original parts, Which just Can't be beat.
I am willing to help build the jig and the first Formal Dynacorn repop...

The B crowd pretty well used up their NOS supply, whats left is a fortune... I understand going with the repro stuff from AMD... lots of cars wouldn't be saved without it.
 
I see a restoration here. I'm with "Wollfen",... I would fix it too.

This is a very rare car here folks,.......71 SFGT 375 produced.

I know of a non rusty/solid 71 parts car for $1200,.$2000 for a GT,....seems like very fair money to get into rare executive muscle..............
So long as you do it yourself and for yourself... I can agree. Take all the trophies you like for all I care, but if you ever need to sell...
 
where do you draw the line though...some will simply put the tag on the other car...cars sold to someone else and down the road and is nothing but hearsay and stories after that.....just like one car here lm thinkin....theres a very fine line imo
 
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IMHO no SFGT should die these days anymore.

Even the rustbuckets can be fixed.
Those who are familiar with B&E-Body Muscle are used to it.

In the worst case: Cut a a regular Sport Fury or Fury III to have the sheetmetal needed for the resto.

There is a decent 71 Sport Fury 2dr HT in Turners wrecking yard in Fresno, California.
He won't sell it as a whole car so it is perfect for cutting it up as needed.

Carsten
 
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Almost everybody is talking about a rebody on his cr and persoanlly I dont see the need, I am with Carsten on this one and replacing some sheetmetal looks like the way to go. The front chassis can be replaced and the rear chassis rails again same thing, if you remember I did that very same thing on my GT early this year, plus it had more rust in the back panel than this one. My car was done in 16 weeks and that included mechanical redo as well as roof, trunk floor added to all previously mentioned. This car would take a bit longer with a full respray. Ralph I'm going to PM you....
 
I called the number in the ad just now, and the person who answered (assume it's the seller) said the car was sold and gone......anybody here taking it on?
 
Let's not get too excited fellas. $1000 might be too much.

There is a 70 SFGT in Indianapolis, I looked at it 20 years ago, sitting in a field for $2500.
I re-inquired perhaps 10 years ago and is still for sale but condition has worsened.
Engine is seized, has roof rust front and rear, rear springs are up thru the floor. Rest of car is a #3-4 at best from memory of it 20 years ago.
I estimated if I got a donor car from southwest shipped up here it would be $2500 easy.
So with no labor figured in, I'd have $5000 in it and it would still be a POS that needed everything.

We need a LOT more detail about this 71 before we jump on it.
And the update on this 71 is why I said the above, and about the 70 GT near me.

While I agree we should preserve any GT we find (to keep it from getting worse), I don't think we should jump on restoring this one until better ones are found/restored first. It's kinda like nobody's gonna buy that black one for $56k, yet we're talking about saving this one, which would easily cost $50k to get comparable to the black one. (and I'm being conservative on that thought). IMO someone like Murray Park should buy car/drivetrain and store it indoors on blacktop until the time is right.
 
And as for swapping the GT VIN onto a donor being OK if you never sell the car - then why swap the VINs at all? You won't be making the donor into a real GT, so just clone the donor as a GT and stay legal - and then you could sell the car if you had to.

In my heart I would know a VIN swap wouldn't make it into a real GT, but maybe some people think that some type of transubstantiation actually dies take place.
 
And as for swapping the GT VIN onto a donor being OK if you never sell the car - then why swap the VINs at all? You won't be making the donor into a real GT, so just clone the donor as a GT and stay legal - and then you could sell the car if you had to.

In my heart I would know a VIN swap wouldn't make it into a real GT, but maybe some people think that some type of transubstantiation actually dies take place.
I never said I would do it. It would make me sick.
 
Almost everybody is talking about a rebody on his cr and persoanlly I dont see the need, I am with Carsten on this one and replacing some sheetmetal looks like the way to go. The front chassis can be replaced and the rear chassis rails again same thing, if you remember I did that very same thing on my GT early this year, plus it had more rust in the back panel than this one. My car was done in 16 weeks and that included mechanical redo as well as roof, trunk floor added to all previously mentioned. This car would take a bit longer with a full respray. Ralph I'm going to PM you....
The bulkhead looked like a real area of concern to me... that's kind of taboo territory for replacement. I know it could be pieced together, but I bet most wouldn't go through the trouble with an easier option. AFAIAC if you dropped a stroker and stripes onto Chris's car... you have a tribute that would be more honest and personalized... but the point was about the GT.

Technically there is still a sales problem with an incorrect engine, depending on your local emissions inspections.

And the update on this 71 is why I said the above, and about the 70 GT near me.

While I agree we should preserve any GT we find (to keep it from getting worse), I don't think we should jump on restoring this one until better ones are found/restored first. It's kinda like nobody's gonna buy that black one for $56k, yet we're talking about saving this one, which would easily cost $50k to get comparable to the black one. (and I'm being conservative on that thought). IMO someone like Murray Park should buy car/drivetrain and store it indoors on blacktop until the time is right.

This is exactly the kind of car someone buys and tries to build because they can't afford a $50k toy. It isn't impossible, but it is unlikely they would get it back on the road.

Maybe I should clarify... if it was my northern rust bucket of love... I would save her any way I could. I would not buy her to rebody and I would have Chris's car here already if I really needed a Fury. None of these ideas makes a fair resale car... everyone gets screwed in an honest transaction after that kind of work. And I like the 318 AZ Fury pretty much as it is. I have always had good experiences with small block Mopar's, except for one timing chain before I knew better.

As Critter put it... there is a fine line for sure... motivation would matter to me and no shop should ever do it.
 
There are those who do that sort of thing and defraud the purchaser when they are finished... there is a special room in hell for them.
1/2 the "Original" BB and Hemi E-bodies out there are what I call rebodies.
They start out with the original air cleaner wing nut and a VIN plate and work backwards from there.
 
1/2 the "Original" BB and Hemi E-bodies out there are what I call rebodies.
They start out with the original air cleaner wing nut and a VIN plate and work backwards from there.
Far as I can tell 1/2 don't even have the nut...

As stated, if it were my love, I would do it. I can see every reason not to, but the things we do for love.

I also wouldn't sell it, ever... of course nobody needs to worry about me... I have what I want.
 
What do you do about the stampings on rebody? How do you get the correct numbers on the trunk lip and cowl? Cut them off and weld them on?

I agree with Trev but it takes talent like his to do it.

I recall Critters car being for sale for a long time before he bought it. Rust issues, unpopular color combination, no console, and needing everything. Yet, look at his car now, stunning. Someone could make this car a killer
 
1/2 the "Original" BB and Hemi E-bodies out there are what I call rebodies.
They start out with the original air cleaner wing nut and a VIN plate and work backwards from there.

We have been down this road several times in the past few years. What really makes a SFGT at the assembly plant is taking a regular Fury bare body and assigning a unique VIN to it and making its VIN tag and placing it on the car and also stamping the VIN on the body in two places and then adding the special add-ons that make a GT. Yes, you can technically restore any rust bucket with metal from several less rusty cars or if available, do so with Chinese repop metal and have a patchwork quilt of metal in either case with the structural integrity (poor) and longevity (also poor especially if out in the elements at all) of a patchwork quilt of welded parts. Or you could take a donor body which exactly matches the original body from a less worthy model just like all the other ones the factory made, use the original VIN and the original two VIN stamps of the original rusty car that you legally own placed into the donor body and go ahead and add all the good original useable parts from the original rusty car plus all the refurbished parts or NOS or otherwise available parts needed to make an accurate SFGT restoration.

Then there is the intermediate issue of how many replacement metal panels added to a rusty body can be used to "restore it" legally before it becomes an illegal rebody - i.e. if you use just the firewall of the original car and "restore" the rest with a patch work quilt of parts, has the original car been saved or not, or do you need a higher percentage of original parts to legally "save" it? Opinions vary widely. Some also maintain that unless some significant portion of the sheet metal on the body is original, then the "soul" of the car is not saved.

For me, I would rather buy a very nice original pretty rust free SFGT too, but like with the B & E bodies, they have all but dried up completely. I personally would not ever need to rebody anything since I have an ample supply of good cars I want to restore. But if I didn't, I would not have a problem with a proper rebody and would actually prefer it over some patchwork quilt of parts restoration. If someone sold me a "legal" car that looked great when I bought, and then a couple years later all the welded areas that weaken and crack from the bondo flexing and the lack of structural integrity annoyed me, I would feel cheated by having bought the "legal" car instead of the "illegal" rebody car. Which one would you really rather have?

The VIN swap laws are mostly aimed at the fraudulent newer car rebodying to hide the VIN of a stolen vehicle. In the case of hobbyists, the purpose is to save the original car the best way possible, with the original rust bucket really being owned by the guy doing the restoration and the original VIN tags and original stampings of the original rust bucket plus all the available paperwork to document the car. For someone trying to sue over a proper rebody restoration, someone like Donal Trump with all the money to buy the best lawyers available is needed to set a precedent as to the legitimacy of the effort. And if you "do it for your self with no problem and never sell it", at some point in the car's existance it will be sold when you leave the planet, and then what?

This happens on B and E bodies like Stan said because there is really nothing morally wrong in my mind with attempting to restore something as best as possible especially if everything known is revealed. That is why, despite the legal letter of the law, I am at least not aware of anyone really getting fined or serving jail time or whatever in the B & E body community, but maybe someone here does? I am not a lawyer, but I believe intent plays heavily in court decisions. And I think someone with deep pockets is needed to set a precedent in this community so us relatively "poor" C body guys can rest easier if doing something like this.

But opinions vary widely...............................................
 
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I would rather own a nicely rebodied SFGT, then a #1 E body that's 90% Chinese metal and repro parts with a "date correct" drive train.
 
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