Thoughts On This 69 Please

[Nitsuj]

Hi all,

I’m Going to view this 69 Fury III at the weekend hopefully , apart from checking the usual things on an old car like rust etc and mechanics is there anything specific I need to look for on a C Body as I’ve only owned a 68 Charger and 72 Challenger in the past

Are the vin’s on the drivers side dash like the Chargers and Challengers ?

Car is here in the U.K.

Any thoughts on the pics would be great

Thanks

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[MrMoparCHP]

69 should have the VIN on the top of the dash on the left.
The VIN is on the data tag on the core support.
There is a hidden VIN (partial) on the cowl near the left wiper pivot under the seal.
There is a hidden VIN (partial) under the trunk weather strip near the left hinge.


Alan

 

[Davea Lux]

Check the A-Pillars and the area around the lower part of the rear window glass for rust. These cars liked to also rust under the vinyl top, check for loose fabric and/or bubbles in the top. Check the trunk floor and the lower quarter radii for bondo/rust. Look underneath at the foot wells and frame rails to check for rust, also check for bondo on the rockers. Car has been repainted so bondo is always a possibility. Might also want to bring a code book and check the build plate to see if the 383 is original to the car. This has a big effect as to the value. This car has a modified hood, paint scheme and engine so it probably qualifies as a resto-mod. Pricing a resto-mod is always tricky as the modifications might not appeal to most buyers.

Dave

 

[marko]

since the car is in the UK i dont think having the original motor will affect the value, especially since it has already been modified.
it is going to appeal to people there regardless. its a rare car in the UK.
as dave said, check for rust
i remember this car on FB from a year or 2 ago and the owner ( im assuming same guy selling) was very proud of it.

 

[CBODY67]

There obviously was "a look" one of the owners was going for. Including the letters on the hood and the aftermarket vinyl side moulding, among others visible. I would be more concerned if the car was a real 383 car and not one which had been converted to such. 2bbl to 4bbl is fine, but there are other things that go along with the 383 compared to a LA-engined car, which can affect how it does things and feels to drive. Checking the engine designation in the VIN could verify that.

IF the car was an original 383 2bbl car, make sure that the throttle and kickdown linkages are correct and work well, for general principles.

Other than what any "book value" might be, DO have the orientation that if there is something there that does not look right or you get a flaky feeling about having to fix (by yourself or pay somebody else to fix), you can negotiate downward from the asking price and/or look for a different car. And that left front tire . . .

Good luck,
CBODY67

 

[1970FuryConv]

I like the look of the car. Since originality is not an issue, I'm not sure how to price it.
I also like the look of the engine compartment.
My major concern would be to check the trunk floor/pan thoroughly for any rust through. If I found any I would climb into the trunk and lie with my head near the spare tire and try to use a flashlight to look up at the bottom of the rear window mounting area to make sure there's no rust holes. Also if there are any holes in the trunk pan, I would take a very close look at the rear subframe rails under the pan and the spring perches.

 

[3C's & a D?]

Nice car. My two cents, or thoughts on the pictures. Is that an aoogha horn? And a black interior car would've originally had a black headliner. Looks like a radiator overflow bottle mounted where the original washer bottle would have been. Aftermarket washer bottle now mounted where the heater valve originally was. Off the roll door weatherstripping, and that scoop is not to my liking, and though I typically don't like purple cars, that is a great shade that suits the car well. If you like it, I say go for it!

 

[polaratherapy]

Before you go, make a check list of what you want to see, sometimes you plan on checking everything in your mind and then once there in front of the car you get side tracked by a fast talker.
I wish I had thought of what I'm telling you now when I bought my Polara....Ellie May is still under extensive repair.
Nothing wrong with brining a check list, car looks nice, not stock , unique and sexy!!
Best of luck, have a nice day.

PT

 

[Nitsuj]

Thanks for the replies , owner says the fuel gauge doesn’t work , I guess that will be the sender ? Don’t mind if the paint is not great , as long as it’s solid wit no rust

What figure would you say is a good price on this assuming it all checks out ok ? Owner wants £15k which is about £19500 USD

Thanks

 

[Boydsdodge]

Take a light magnet

 

[Rustyrodknocker]

Hard to call the pricing. Probably a question best answered by somebody in England. The car is much more rare over there, it costs a good portion of the cars value to get it there and your economy is layered on top of that.

As far as what to look for, it sounds like you are familiar with mopars of the era and the exact same thing applies to all of them.

The biggest is the rust and how it was repaired.
These cars have serious rust issues.

This particular car has had the typical muscle car look renovation to it. As it applies to value that will be a positive to some and a negative to others.
The question is what was the condition of the car when this was done? Are there photos of the process?

I would crawl in the trunk and look up at the bottom of the rear window area. Look for patch work and bondo boogers. That is probably the fastest way to get an idea on the condition of the car and quality of work.