Time to brake the donuts...

[The Goose]

the boss is going to jolly ole England for 2 weeks of work so I’m going to take advantage of the peace and quiet to overhaul the brakes. All four corners and the wheel bearings. The question I have is who do you guys use and how did they work out. On Rockauto I see Wagner raybestos etc etc and bonded vs riveted.
The car stops fine. It’s straight as an arrow 100% thru its stops but this last time in the canyons I could tell it’s about that time...

 

[LocuMob]

I've heard the riveted shoes might build more heat at the rivets, making their service life shorter, but have them on my '66 500 and they work fine. I have the bonded on the regular Polara and they work fine as well. Wheel cylinders are the issue with that car. As long as you adjust them correctly,they should work fine for you.

 

[The Goose]

I've heard the riveted shoes might build more heat at the rivets, making their service life shorter, but have them on my '66 500 and they work fine. I have the bonded on the regular Polara and they work fine as well. Wheel cylinders are the issue with that car. As long as you adjust them correctly,they should work fine for you.

Thanks, so no brand preference???

According to the paperwork PO did the brakes 10 years and 20K plus miles ago

As far as I can see standard size power brakes. Nothing special there.

 

[Davea Lux]

the boss is going to jolly ole England for 2 weeks of work so I’m going to take advantage of the peace and quiet to overhaul the brakes. All four corners and the wheel bearings. The question I have is who do you guys use and how did they work out. On Rockauto I see Wagner raybestos etc etc and bonded vs riveted.
The car stops fine. It’s straight as an arrow 100% thru its stops but this last time in the canyons I could tell it’s about that time...

You need to be careful with today's brake linings. The best solution is to locate NOS asbestos brakes as they are what C-Bodies of that era were designed for. Modern Raybestos linings are made in China, so I have quit using them. As far as I know, Wagner still makes their stuff here, but the asbestos replacement linings tend to be a harder compound and wear out drums more quickly. Probably not an issue unless the car is a daily driver. These days, I replace all four wheel cylinders rather than rebuilding them as it is not really cost effective to mess with a rebuild. Brake hoses should be replaced at this time also. I would be inclined having gotten this far into the job to replace the master cylinder and convert to DOT 5 fluid as well. These cars came with bonded linings, and that is adequate for anything but racing or heavy towing.

If you need to replace any wheel bearings, do not bother with any of the Chinese junk sold at Car Quest or Auto Zone, they are all crap and not worth putting in. Buy Timken bearings, they are well worth the extra money.

Dave

 

[LocuMob]

If you need to replace any wheel bearings, do not bother with any of the Chinese junk sold at Car Quest or Auto Zone, they are all crap and not worth putting in. Buy Timken bearings, they are well worth the extra money.

Agree on the Timkin bearings, which I sold when I worked at CarQuest, similar part number, and I always told every customer of the options available, but most people only cared about the bottom line.

 

[The Goose]

You need to be careful with today's brake linings. The best solution is to locate NOS asbestos brakes as they are what C-Bodies of that era were designed for. Modern Raybestos linings are made in China, so I have quit using them. As far as I know, Wagner still makes their stuff here, but the asbestos replacement linings tend to be a harder compound and are wear out drums more quickly. Probably not an issue unless the car is a daily driver. These days, I replace all four wheel cylinders rather than rebuilding them as it is not really cost effective to mess with a rebuild. Brake hoses should be replaced at this time also. I would be inclined having gotten this far into the job to replace the master cylinder and convert to DOT 5 fluid as well. These cars came with bonded linings, and that is adequate for anything but racing or heavy towing.

If you need to replace any wheel bearings, do not bother with any of the Chinese junk sold at Car Quest or Auto Zone, they are all crap and not worth putting in. Buy Timken bearings, they are well worth the extra money.

Dave

Amen to that on the wheel bearings. We ran into that with my buddy’s 55 Chevy. The master is new and works great. I drive it a lot. I didn’t realize it was 20k in the last couple years. The PO did all kinds of work but the car sat because of a rotten gas tank. Actually that’s why he sold it...

 

[The Goose]

I saw like a year ago a member was selling real honest to goodness brake shoes. Anybody remember who that might be. An East Coaster NY or NJ if I remember right.

 

[Davea Lux]

Agree on the Timkin bearings, which I sold when I worked at CarQuest, similar part number, and I always told every customer of the options available, but most people only cared about the bottom line.

We all care about the bottom line, difference is that as we get older and lazier we hate doing the job more than once. ChiCom bearings are made of peanut butter and you get what you pay for.

Dave

 

[LocuMob]

We all care about the bottom line, difference is that as we get older and lazier we hate doing the job more than once. ChiCom bearings are made of peanut butter and you get what you pay for.

Dave

I've turned into a guy willing to pony up the coin right away for the right parts. As you said, I don't need to do it three times. I just realize a few dollars can go a long way. But working at CarQuest opened my eyes to the crap that's sold to the public,and I'd rather not go that route.

 

[LocuMob]

I saw like a year ago a member was selling real honest to goodness brake shoes. Anybody remember who that might be. An East Coaster NY or NJ if I remember right.

I want to say mobileparts is his handle. He's pretty good at chiming in when someone mentions NOS brake parts.

 

[Davea Lux]

I saw like a year ago a member was selling real honest to goodness brake shoes. Anybody remember who that might be. An East Coaster NY or NJ if I remember right.

I remember that post, I think he is a vendor on FCBO.

Dave

 

[The Goose]

I want to say mobileparts is his handle. He's pretty good at chiming in when someone mentions NOS brake parts.

That’s if you’re listening out there I got my PayPal tuned up and ready!!!

 

[The Goose]

This guy is the one I saw. Do I have to worry about what size? I’m thinking they’re standard duty stuff.

 

[Davea Lux]

I would pull one front and one rear and measure the shoe width. 3" fronts were standard on police, taxi and high performance. Most of the rest will have 2.75" fronts. With Mopars it is always better to check because there were a lot of variants. It will also vary significantly from one year to another and one model to another.

Dave

 

[LocuMob]

Measure what you have in there now, just pop off a drum and measure the shoe. I bought 3" shoes, but need 2 3/4" shoes, oh well.

 

[65sporty]

I use a lot of Wagner parts at work, but it is all on modern cars

 

[The Goose]

I would pull one front and one rear and measure the shoe width. 3" fronts were standard on police, taxi and high performance. Most of the rest will have 2.75" fronts. With Mopars it is always better to check because there were a lot of variants. It will also vary significantly from one year to another and one model to another.

Dave

Thanks Dave. Now what if big O did something stupid. I mean once I got it running good the brakes worked scary good. I guess I just answered my own question. Duh - I’ll copy what they did cause it’s worked so well. As long as I have a quarter inch or so in play side to side I’m good correct?

 

[LocuMob]

Thanks Dave. Now what if big O did something stupid. I mean once I got it running good the brakes worked scary good. I guess I just answered my own question. Duh - I’ll copy what they did cause it’s worked so well. As long as I have a quarter inch or so in play side to side I’m good correct?

Follow the FSM and you should be good. Drum brakes are easy, I love them.

 

[Davea Lux]

Thanks Dave. Now what if big O did something stupid. I mean once I got it running good the brakes worked scary good. I guess I just answered my own question. Duh - I’ll copy what they did cause it’s worked so well. As long as I have a quarter inch or so in play side to side I’m good correct?

They most likely put back whatever was on the car as backing plates have to be changed to change shoe widths. Go with what is on the car now.

Dave

 

[The Goose]

Awesome. Thanks guys. I’ll pull the wheels and call Craig in the middle of turkey dinner LOL !!!! If the price is right I’m buying a couple sets too...