The Goose
Senior Member
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Chrysler did "bonded" brake shoes. GM used riveted shoes. Lining materials might be the same and the same thickness, but with rivets, you loose about 1/4" of lining use because of the rivets.
The "edge codes" on the sides of the friction material might determine which lining is best. The two letters are for performance when cold and the second letter is performance when hot. "Higher" letters are best. As on the disc brake pads, that code identifies the friction material and its manufacturer, the friction characteristics, and batch number.
Latest friction reformulation is to remove the copper from the friction material. Concur on replacing the wheel cylinders rather than the messy rebuild. Especially for the price differential between a kit and the complete cylinders.
There are two DOT 5-style brake fluids. One is synthetic. One is silicone. Do a good flush of the lines and such. Don't know that DOT 5 is really better than DOT 4 or 3, as far as performance goes.
Use the Ford-spec disc brake wheel bearing lube. It has moly in it. Valvoline might have some in synthetic grease?
Have fun!
CBODY67
This jibberish was on the side of the shoe.
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Tools will stay exactly where I left them.
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As will the car.
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Didn’t even get my hands dirty
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Kanters ??? Are they something we have out here but under a different name ? We have pep boys almost totally worthless unless you hit an old school ghetto store, auto-zone ours is terrible but the Palmdale one is okay. And then there are my two favorites. Car Quest in Littlerock is so old school it’s scary and the O’reilly in Newhall which is an old school checker auto - they MADE them change the name or it would still say checker outside. Then our NAPA is just a NAPA they just sell parts.Has somebody experiences of the stuff that Kanter Auto Parts is selling? There`s even hard-to obtain Imperial parts offered.
If I pull the axles I know I’ll throw on new bearings and I’ll pull the pig and replace that gasket and clean up the backing plates and paint the rear axle house and then I might as well do the u joints and ...The letters and numbers on the side of the shoes are lot numbers for the particular batch of friction material. Many are also code marked for the type of material and the rating of the material. While you have it apart, this would be a good time to pull the rear axles and re-pack the rear wheel bearings.
Dave
Ohhhhhh okay. Like Danchuck or NPD. In Phoenix we had so many walk in specialties shops I never hardly ordered anything online. Out here in Kalifornia it’s a totally different ball game.Kanter's is an old car specialist, used to be all catalogs but now has online presence. Never been near their brick house........
Kanter Auto Products, Vintage, Antique, & Classic Auto Parts
If I pull the axles I know I’ll throw on new bearings and I’ll pull the pig and replace that gasket and clean up the backing plates and paint the rear axle house and then I might as well do the u joints and ...
Dave you’re the devil.
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Thanks man. You were making me feel a little guilty. Honestly I drive the piss out of this thing. I did the brakes chasing Kenny Wayne Sheppard’s demon thru Malibu canyon and on this last trip to the car show I knew in my heart it was brake time. They just worked so good for so long but I could feel it in the pedal you know what I mean?Unless your bearings are noisy, there is probably no need to replace them. Throw on some fresh grease and and call it good.