Tips for a young guy? What’s next?

O_Knut

Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2022
Messages
122
Reaction score
114
Location
North Canaan, CT
IMG_4641.jpeg

So, after the transmission job had a moth fly out of my wallet, I’m hoping you guys can help me with some quality advice.
Here’s where I am with my car:
Needs new radiator

Needs new carb or carb rebuild

New muffler/ maybe exhaust

Rides like a truck (though handles amazingly just not comfy on bumps at all) (also body bushing shot I can feel the body and the subframe move seperately)

Body work… save that for last

Any advice for doing these things affordably or easily besides junkyarding parts is appreciated. I’m 20 now and though I did work for a time at a mechanics shop, I know fuel injection and sensors far more than I know carbuerators and chokes.
I guess any advice or tips you can give a young guy is appreciated. It may help me decide what else to fix. Carb getting done first then radiator
 
Buy a set of SAE tools. Decent ones at HF actually for what you will need.
 
Needs new radiator
I'm a big proponent of recoring the radiator rather than replacing, but sometimes that is price prohibitive. I can give you the name of the shop I use that's just north of Syracuse, NY if you want. They seem to be much more reasonable in price. Probably a 3 1/2 to 4 hour drive for you, but you could UPS it too. Look around in your area first. There are cheaper aluminum radiators around too. Just keep the old stock one.
Needs new carb or carb rebuild
I think @saforwardlook covered this. I will suggest Woodruff Carbs if you want to have it rebuilt, although they aren't that hard to rebuild yourself.
New muffler/ maybe exhaust
Depends on what you want. I did a TTI dual system on my '70 300 with Cadillac mufflers. Not the cheapest, but IMHO, the best. If you have to replace your entire exhaust, this may be comparable in price to having a shop do just a stock type replacement.
Rides like a truck (though handles amazingly just not comfy on bumps at all) (also body bushing shot I can feel the body and the subframe move seperately)
The lower control arm bushings are usually shot in most of these cars. Be careful buying NOS because rubber doesn't age well.
Body work… save that for last
Dig even deeper into your wallet. Shops are notoriously slow doing old cars as they get shoved off in a corner to do during "slow times". These slow times never seem to come and the cars sit in shops for years.
Any advice for doing these things affordably or easily besides junkyarding parts is appreciated. I’m 20 now and though I did work for a time at a mechanics shop, I know fuel injection and sensors far more than I know carbuerators and chokes.
I guess any advice or tips you can give a young guy is appreciated. It may help me decide what else to fix. Carb getting done first then radiator
Yep, no old car junkyards in the northeast.

Geez... 20 years old. That's a great age to be. Enjoy it.

Carburetors aren't that hard, especially that 2bbl. Good place to learn and the FSM is your friend. Chip away at it. Suspension first to make the car safe to drive. If it's overheating, do the radiator next.
 
Don't be like me and try and fix too much at a time, now I'm stuck with mine in pieces! You're off to a good start. These guys are all giving great advice. I'm now going to be 24 y/o, but bought my old girl a month before I turned 19.
 
I have posted a number of comments about the Holley 2210 - here they are...........................:

Search results for query: Holley 2210
After reading and seeing the 2210 is not such a great carb reliability wise, anything that I can swap it with besides the carter unit I’ve been told these could have also came with? Any more reliable carb that will slap onto my current intake? I know if I want a 4 barrel I must swap my intake but how abt a reliable 2 for now
 
NO issues with the 2210 as to "reliability"! Main thing is making sure the air horn is not warped from dingbats tightening the air cleaner wing nut far too much. Other than that, I had great results from the TWO of them I have.

Never did a Carter BBD 1.5, but them seem "ancient" to me in the way the "wire" holds the air cleaner stud. BUT they don't have warped air horns either, due to the way the torque runs to the outside of the air cleaner mounting ring.

To me, EITHER one is reliable, as to making the car run well and getting good fuel economy, when they are "right". By observation, the Holley has a more-modern venturi package, for better off-idle feel and ultimate fuel economy. Ever think a 383 2bbl Chrysler could get 20mpg? I did that when the national speed limit went to 55mph, after I exchanged the OEM Stromberg WWC3 for the 1970-spec OEM Holley 2210.

The 2210 is an easy carb to rebuild. Just make sure the gasket area just under the air cleaner stud touches all the way across. That "hole" in the middle of it is the power valve vacuum passage. "No seal" there and the carb is in full power mixture mode all of the time. ALSO, that is the rear seal of the float bowl, which means that under certain choking conditions, fuel from the float bowl can be sucked out of the bowl. Not that hard to fix with some thicker and softer gasket material, which is what Chrysler used in their TSB for that carburetor. PM me for details, if desired.

^^^^Just MY experiences.

As to body mounts? Have not seen any reproduced, which means "salvage yard" from any Fuselage C-body 1970 - 1973.

Key thing is to prioritize things!

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Back
Top