Trans fluid .

carguy300

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2018
Messages
884
Reaction score
560
Location
East Texas
One more question, going to change filter and fluid in my 68 300. Original, stock 727 transmission. Whats recommended fluid to put back in? Only a few options now days. Thanks for the help.
 
I think the practical options are going to be dexron 6 or ATF+4. I did the same thing recently and went with ATF+4 ($75 CAD for a 4.7 liter jug, had to buy 2 jugs). Do you plan on a full drain? Or just replacing what gets dumped when you drop the pan?
 
I think the practical options are going to be dexron 6 or ATF+4. I did the same thing recently and went with ATF+4 ($75 CAD for a 4.7 liter jug, had to buy 2 jugs). Do you plan on a full drain? Or just replacing what gets dumped when you drop the pan?
Im just going to drain whats in the pan for now.
 
Local WalMarts usually carry Valvoline Dexron III equivalent in gallon jugs at a good price.
 
That is something I was not aware of! Is plug easy to get to?
Yes, pull the sheet metal cover off the bellhousing and you'll see the convertor. That's just a couple bolts.

Chances are good, you won't see the plug, but all you have to do is turn the engine over. That can be accomplished a couple ways. You can pull the coil wire (so the engine won't start) and have someone "bump" the ignition while you watch and yell. This gets a little frustrating, so you can also turn the engine over with an 1 1/4" socket and breaker bar on the balancer bolt. That can be tough to do from under the car, so my recommendation is a remote starter switch. I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVU8MK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hook that to either the starter or the starter relay and then you can do it by yourself. Bump it until you see the plug and then unscrew it and let it drain.

This is actually a pic of a 904 I got off the intrawebs, but it shows the plug well.

1731850414507.png
 
I totally agree with BigJohn but wanted to add a couple of comments. First the converter will drain slowly so I usually start that draining first. Second after you put in the new fluid block your wheels or set your parking brake and put the transmission in neutral when you start it. Torqueflight transmissions don’t pump much fluid in park so running it in neutral will ensure that the converter fills before you try to move. In fact I always shift to neutral for a few seconds before shifting into any gear when my cars have been sitting a while this ensures fluid flowing and the clutch’s aren’t starved for fluid when you first start to move.
 
I totally agree with BigJohn but wanted to add a couple of comments. First the converter will drain slowly so I usually start that draining first. Second after you put in the new fluid block your wheels or set your parking brake and put the transmission in neutral when you start it. Torqueflight transmissions don’t pump much fluid in park so running it in neutral will ensure that the converter fills before you try to move. In fact I always shift to neutral for a few seconds before shifting into any gear when my cars have been sitting a while this ensures fluid flowing and the clutch’s aren’t starved for fluid when you first start to move.
Thank you for that. I learn something new every day, this was one of the better ones!
 
A remote starter switch always seemed a bit "professional" to me. I liked seeing the sparks from shorting the starter relay with a robust screwdriver. Just be sure no flammable vapors are around!

With practice and improved technique, sparks are minimized. In other words, don't be timid!

Sometime in the later 1960s, torque converter drain plugs were deleted by every OEM.

CBODY67
 
Wasn't there a year-range where the torque converter did / didn't have a drain plug?
 
Yes, pull the sheet metal cover off the bellhousing and you'll see the convertor. That's just a couple bolts.

Chances are good, you won't see the plug, but all you have to do is turn the engine over. That can be accomplished a couple ways. You can pull the coil wire (so the engine won't start) and have someone "bump" the ignition while you watch and yell. This gets a little frustrating, so you can also turn the engine over with an 1 1/4" socket and breaker bar on the balancer bolt. That can be tough to do from under the car, so my recommendation is a remote starter switch. I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVU8MK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hook that to either the starter or the starter relay and then you can do it by yourself. Bump it until you see the plug and then unscrew it and let it drain.

This is actually a pic of a 904 I got off the intrawebs, but it shows the plug well.

View attachment 692508
Thats Big John. Always appreciate your help.
 
A remote starter switch always seemed a bit "professional" to me. I liked seeing the sparks from shorting the starter relay with a robust screwdriver.
I was "scolded" on here once for saying how I used a quarter to short a starter relay. I still use a quarter.

I went for years without a remote switch and just this year that I bought one. It does make it easier and these days I'm all about "easier".

The trick with using a screwdriver (or quarter) is to hit the nuts and not the threaded studs. That keeps the threads good so you can screw unscrew the nuts.

For the less seasoned shade tree mechanic, I just suggest the switch... Under $20, doesn't mess anything up and no sparks.
 
Back
Top