Transmission questions again on my 68 fury iii

[stu’s68furyiiirat]

quality's gone out the window with that drum at least. @thrashingcows has it with his suggestion. that or cut your losses and move to another unit. it would be nice to think that there's no corrosion in the passages in the case, but i'd be leery. if i had opened that case and saw what your seeing, i would have stopped right there. @1970FuryConv is on the money also. that thing looks like it came off the core pile.

I think the only thing worth keeping is the front pump to be honest for more flow maybe I have the og transmission in the 68 still I was just going to build this one and swap a roo keep on moving
I’ll send this one to scrap yard and do the 68 and do a refresh on the 318 for winter project

 

[Project Sketchy]

I feel for you stu’s68furyiiirat. The desire to re-use parts is high, especially so when you're already "IN" and find more stuff to add to the cost.
If you can, box up the stuff, take it back, and ask for a 727 that hasn't been full of water. If you already have a rebuild kit, be careful here--you'd want a 727 that works with the kit you bought. Popping the pan on a transmission before you buy is a good practice. Metal chunks, rust, ATF turned to tar....keep looking.
If you have to go with what you have:
1. There are 2 bands to consider. The drum surfaces they clamp down on should be smooth, flat and shiny---deep scratches/cupping/pits/grooves you can feel with your fingernails --those are bad for the band.
2. That reverse drum in the pictures looks pretty rough and it will likely wear the band faster than normal. The band for it is engaged when you're in reverse (duh) and when you manually shift to "L" low. (if you plan on beating on this thing, or manually shifting, then be kind to your future-self and replace it)
3. Very carefully examine the front/direct drum, planet sets, sprag, pump pieces, steels, and any of the machined surfaces for rust damage.
4. Best wishes on the rebuild!

 

[stu’s68furyiiirat]

I feel for you stu’s68furyiiirat. The desire to re-use parts is high, especially so when you're already "IN" and find more stuff to add to the cost.
If you can, box up the stuff, take it back, and ask for a 727 that hasn't been full of water. If you already have a rebuild kit, be careful here--you'd want a 727 that works with the kit you bought. Popping the pan on a transmission before you buy is a good practice. Metal chunks, rust, ATF turned to tar....keep looking.
If you have to go with what you have:
1. There are 2 bands to consider. The drum surfaces they clamp down on should be smooth, flat and shiny---deep scratches/cupping/pits/grooves you can feel with your fingernails --those are bad for the band.
2. That reverse drum in the pictures looks pretty rough and it will likely wear the band faster than normal. The band for it is engaged when you're in reverse (duh) and when you manually shift to "L" low. (if you plan on beating on this thing, or manually shifting, then be kind to your future-self and replace it)
3. Very carefully examine the front/direct drum, planet sets, sprag, pump pieces, steels, and any of the machined surfaces for rust damage.
4. Best wishes on the rebuild!

Thanks I’ll just cut my loss and lesson learned and rebuild my og one that still working in my car it’s a little sluggish

 

[493mike]

I am surprised no one has mentioned blasting for corrosion removal. I use my blast cabinet all the time when cleaning up parts. Currently using crushed glass. On drums, a blasting followed by buffing with a wire wheel brings back a new looking finish. But, pitting is cause for replacement/machining.
Mike