TRUNK FLOOR PAN IDEAS

[Joseph Purvee]

TRUNK FLOOR PAN IDEAS.
What do you think about using a spray on bedliner in your cars trunk floor pan instead of cutting it out? Just remove the rust and spray away.

 

[shooter65]

If you're OCD like me that's not an option but, If you have some sort of mat in the truck, most of the underside will be covered by the gas tank, so as long as there are no holes that will let exhaust fumes into the trunk/passenger compartment so you wont DIE. Go for it.

 

[71Polara383]

Not an option. Cut it out and replace. It's really not that hard.

 

[71Polara383]

You live in California...theres gotta be at least 10 trunk floor donors in a 100/150 mile radius of you...dont be lazy do it right, do it once and be done.

 

[Joseph Purvee]

Thanks for the advice. The only thing that slows my progress down is lack of money.

 

[cantflip]

Not an option. Cut it out and replace. It's really not that hard.

Thanks for the advice. The only thing that slows my progress down is lack of money.

Hi Joseph and

@71Polara383 has it right, although @shooter65 hit the biggest concern. The problem with just sealing up the holes is that you've done little to nothing to restore strength to the area. There is even an argument that the technique used to replace a welded panel will change the strength and crash characteristics of the car.

So, I'd say to save the bed liner $$ and do it right... if you are driving it much or far in the interim, do something to seal out exhaust fumes... but keep in mind how much additional work you're creating for when the correct repair is done.

 

[bluefury361]

These projects rarely end up exactly as planned. Best, (and safest), to do it right. Gather everything you think your going to need, (trunk floor, tools, materials, etc), then tear into it. It's fun to learn. and the gradification gained from a job well done just adds to the enjoyment of your car.

 

[Davea Lux]

Another thing to remember is that the trunk floor has a structural function, it stabilizes the frame rails so they do not move and eventually fracture. Best to keep that intact with a solid metal replacement.

Dave

 

[Big_John]

TRUNK FLOOR PAN IDEAS.
What do you think about using a spray on bedliner in your cars trunk floor pan instead of cutting it out? Just remove the rust and spray away.

Let's define "rust".

We have this form of rust. Surface rust from a rubber trunk mat. Solid with no pin holes. This can be wire wheeled, hit with some rust converter and then covered with bed liner. My trunk is done that way and I would do it again in a heartbeat.

Now we have the other extreme. This is what everyone seems to think you have. Replacement is the only way.

Then there's something like this. That gets a little different. Some would replace the whole thing (if they could) and some would patch what's there. That's a judgement call.

Yes, I know... This is a passenger floor. It was what I could find in a quick search.

So... Give us a picture and some idea how bad (or good) it really is.

 

[71Polara383]

Thanks for the advice. The only thing that slows my progress down is lack of money.

Keep an eye on the local pick and pulls...seems like C bodies make their way to them out there in California for no good reason.

 

[Joseph Purvee]

Awesome photos. I agree that if the trunk is not rusted badly. Here's mine.what do you think

 

[Big_John]

Awesome photos. I agree that if the trunk is not rusted badly. Here's mine.what do you think View attachment 327542 View attachment 327542

View attachment 327543

Really have to see what it looks like under the spare. Also look at the floor extensions. These are the vertical pieces that connect to the edge of the trunk floor and the lower edge of the quarter panel.

Based on what I see, there's a few options.

Best, as been said, is replacing the entire floor. No doubt about it. It's a serious project though and I don't know your capabilities or what you have available for tools.

Second best, and this is all dependent of the condition of the rest of the floor, is to replace those just parts that are rusted though with patches. Some sheet metal and a cheap MIG welder can take care of the job pretty fast.

Down the list a little farther is something like I did with a spare tire wheel on a '53 Chrysler. This HAS TO BE NON STRUCTURAL. Nothing near a frame etc. but this beats the aluminum flashing/pop rivet repair that I've seen in a lot of cars hands down. It's strong and will last.

Cut a piece of fiberglass cloth to cover it.

Painted the area with POR-15 paint and put the 'glass cloth on top and soaked it with POR-15

Did a couple more layers and it was good and solid.

Again, that is a repair for a section that doesn't involve the structure of the car. Some will disagree, but whatever... It will take a couple hours and you can focus on something else.

 

[tbm3fan]

Keep an eye on the local pick and pulls...seems like C bodies make their way to them out there in California for no good reason.

I'd really like to see that one day but I haven't since I've been going to two of them for the last 10 years. I've seen a fair number of trucks, one 72 Mustang, one 70 Montego and one 64 Thunderbird in 10 years.

 

[tbm3fan]

Awesome photos. I agree that if the trunk is not rusted badly. Here's mine.what do you think View attachment 327542 View attachment 327542

View attachment 327543

I see a tire and trim but nothing that I would call a good look at the trunk floor.

 

[cantflip]

Awesome photos. I agree that if the trunk is not rusted badly. Here's mine.what do you think View attachment 327542 View attachment 327542

View attachment 327543

Thanks for the effort, but to really help you... clear the trunk, a quick aggressive wire brushing, and poke with a crappy screw driver or something similar (not too crazy, no hammer) to find weak spots... then you and the pictures will have an idea how bad it really is.

To stabilize the rust, I prefer Ospho, which most hardware stores have on the shelf in qt size. follow the directions and don't use it over grass you don't want to kill. If the whole thing has thick scaly rust, your end result will be weak and too thin for welding. If it only has a few smallish holes, patch away. It will get you by for a while, and maybe last through your ownership. Being in CA, you may have the advantage of climate working for you.

 

[Joseph Purvee]

Thank you Ospho it is

 

[pwadventurer]

Awesome photos. I agree that if the trunk is not rusted badly. Here's mine.what do you think View attachment 327542 View attachment 327542

View attachment 327543

If you tackle each section separately, it won't be so over whelming. the section above the right rail was bad on mine like yours. I made a piece and welded in next to other bad spots that I will do by them selves.

 

[stubs300]

I see a tire and trim but nothing that I would call a good look at the trunk floor.

Obvisoly, photography isn't one of his strong points in life.

 

[cm23uoc]

Yet enough to be seen to go the welding route IMHO. And I'd fix the trunk seal as well to prevent further water leaks.

 

[saylor]

Really have to see what it looks like under the spare. Also look at the floor extensions. These are the vertical pieces that connect to the edge of the trunk floor and the lower edge of the quarter panel.

Based on what I see, there's a few options.

Best, as been said, is replacing the entire floor. No doubt about it. It's a serious project though and I don't know your capabilities or what you have available for tools.

Second best, and this is all dependent of the condition of the rest of the floor, is to replace those just parts that are rusted though with patches. Some sheet metal and a cheap MIG welder can take care of the job pretty fast.

Down the list a little farther is something like I did with a spare tire wheel on a '53 Chrysler. This HAS TO BE NON STRUCTURAL. Nothing near a frame etc. but this beats the aluminum flashing/pop rivet repair that I've seen in a lot of cars hands down. It's strong and will last.

View attachment 327573

Cut a piece of fiberglass cloth to cover it.

View attachment 327574

Painted the area with POR-15 paint and put the 'glass cloth on top and soaked it with POR-15

View attachment 327575

Did a couple more layers and it was good and solid.

Again, that is a repair for a section that doesn't involve the structure of the car. Some will disagree, but whatever... It will take a couple hours and you can focus on something else.

+1 with Mr Big John

get the por 15 kit. it will have marine clean converter stuff that will turn it all silver. it does some chemicaly stuff and zinc phosphate coats it or something IIRC.

the kit comes with 1yard of fiberglass i think. or it used to anyway. or just buy some fiberglass mesh and a couple of the small cans of por15. cut it to strips / size and patch. or do the whole floor with the 1yd square so its more uniform shape. i liked the thin weave looking mesh way better than the thick straw looking weave mesh, as far as shaping it to contours. careful with fiberglass if you never worked with it. woven matt isnt so bad, but it still sucks.

then spackle paint that sucker.

somewhere under those rust holes are things like your exhaust pipes, gas tank, etc. dont let the por15 drip down onto it put duct tape on the bottom side holes before you goop up.

try not to die -

- saylor