What a Rush

View attachment 138990 It's a typical scenario. Modifications rarely fall together without a hitch (or two!). Yes, the tie rod's grease Zerk is striking the new long-tube headers. I'll try to get a 45-degree Zerk to work. If not, the header tube must change its position in time-space.
Note that the idler arm has been striking too. See the grease marks just above the Zerk? There may be a slight increase of turning radius on left turns. This may not be as horrific as it seems. After all, the car is being built for straight line racing. It's just another "flying brick!"

What does it have for motor mounts?

If the rubbers aren't collapsed I think Mancini sells shims you can put between the engine brackets and the mount to raise the engine up slightly or you could make some.

TTI's usually fit like a glove. A friend of mine has them on his 66 383 Fury as well as their exhaust system. The stuff all came out of the box and bolted on.

Kevin
 
e85 isn't typically 85% alcohol here in TX. It's all over the place, some even having no alcohol. I used to work at a place where we did a lot of fuel science. Yes, we could test it and correct it. That's a pain.
As well, e85, when it's 85%, is about 105 octane. This engine is a true 14/1 monster. 112 octane would likely be rather marginal on a hot day. It's also a very costly engine. Thus, it's running on 114 octane gasoline (as opposed to the crap they sell for fuel these days). It's expensive but there really won't be many hours on it per year.

Motor mounts! That had completely escaped me in the Texas heat. There's a good bit of room at the firewall. The bell housing is pretty close and adding the scatter shield may make that a clearance issue. I can always gently coerce the floor to relax and ease out of the way a bit. That sounds like a winner. Thanks for reminding me that nothing is set in stone.

I had been thinking about a stronger mount on the left (pull) side anyway. An engine plate would be a good idea but Dylan will be learning all about race chassis fab shortly. I guess that he can just be gentle with the right foot until then!

- dad
 
Early mornings can be a good time to think. Dana, or someone, had lowered the ride height considerably by loosening the torsion bars. If I understand it correctly, tightening them should alter (increase) camber. The increased tension, that causes the rotation of the lower control arms, does this. To increase camber, the trapezoid formed by the sub-frame, control arms, center link and tie rod/tie rod ends must increase its vertical space to decrease its lower dimension (increasing camber). Or, so I think, anyway. Therefore, ride height reduction was probably the original source of the interference and ride height increase should return it back to clearing - honest..
..anyway, I plan to raise it a little at a time (counting turns) to see what the end effect on clearance is. It's likely that an alignment will be in her future anyway.

- dad

Edited for to clarify - sort of.
 
Last edited:
Well, thanks to
upload_2017-8-21_7-36-35.png

Mopar muscle magazine (C-Body Sway Bars - Roll Control - Mopar Muscle Magazine), I see the error in my assessment. The pitman arm and idler arm won't allow vertical movement of the center link. Ever.

I've ordered motor mount shims from Schumacher.
 
Last edited:
Success, I do believe.
There was a washer under the nut that held the motor mount together. Because the stud wasn't long enough for the shim and the washer, I cleaned the threads to metal and used medium strength thread locker. Fortunately, this is on the crush side (engine tries to lift the left side and drop the right as it's twisting under torque). So, losing the washer (and only having partial thread penetration of the nut) isn't really a problem as long as the nut stays put on the threads.
The 1/4" shim was enough to allow the idler arm to clear nicely. A 45 degree Zerk will only increase the clearance. So, I'll stop by NAPA shortly. In the mean time, someone has called the city (again) and I've got to tow it away to work on it elsewhere. I'm not quite feeling the love. Why can't we all just get along?
- dad
IMG_2093.JPG
IMG_2094.JPG
IMG_2095.JPG
 
. .. you got to move over here to garland / sachse area.... over here the more cars you have out front is a measure of your success :)

and at least 1 truck is mando.
 
IMG_2098.JPG
Dylan's brand new fuel cell now has an extra 4.5" diameter hole cut into it.
Into this gaping chasm of a hole goes the new in-tank fuel pump.
IMG_2099.JPG

The old fuel cell came out. It's seen much better days.

So, the electric water pump necessitates re-mounting the alternator. This stuff rarely comes with instructions. It's not for the faint of heart. Here is the new low-mount alternator bracket, in all its glory:
IMG_2100.JPG


This puzzle is starting to fall together. I'm looking into ptfe-lined fuel lines. With a little luck, they should safely outlast the vehicle.

- dad
 
The fuel cell is rather cavernous. It's got a sending unit. That may need to be re-calibrated. For now, it needed to be rotated 180 degrees and tweaked so that it can hide, from the foam, behind the intended outlet (pickup) tube.
IMG_2101.JPG


IMG_2107.PNG


The foam needs to be prevented from hitting the sending unit. To (hopefully) accomplish this, the foam will be strategically placed on edge to deliberately wedge within the cell. The cell is 7" high and the foam is 10" x 10" x 2.5".

IMG_2103.JPG


The foam is rolled up and carefully crammed through the hole.

IMG_2104.JPG


Then, I attached the fuel pump mount. Notice that there's clearance to the left of the mount for the pickup sock. To the right, and directly underneath, there's open void.

IMG_2105.JPG

IMG_2106.JPG


More to follow..

- dad
 
This foam is designed for racing fuel use. It's resistant to degradation in many fuels and has very large, open cells. It is also carbon impregnated to mitigate static electricity issues. It's also very expensive. There's over $100 worth of foam in this 17 gallon fuel cell.

So, to the makers of the FiTech branded HyperFuel #40019 - really? WTF were you thinking? AFTER I wrestled the foam into position, the VERY LAST thing that I want to do is grind some of the red ring out of the way so that I can start the housing onto the studs. The freaking upper hose clamp strikes the red ring. Yes, I tried re-clocking the hose clamp. Yes, I tried inverting it. No, there was NO WAY to make it fit without grinding.

Here's a clue to those of you who create products: try to make it actually work as intended before you box it and ship it. If I had gone with solely using the black ring, I never would have noticed this problem. However, I'm using both rings so that the pump/foam/cell may be serviced without needing a new gasket. Perhaps the designers never tried this? They do give (rather ambiguous) instructions that declare that it's possible. This isn't my first rodeo. If I had trouble making it fit as shipped, so will EVERYONE else.

Here's the sock filter installed. The wires must be carefully routed to mitigate abrasions and checked for clearance prior to seating the body. You don't want to pinch them!!!

IMG_2108.JPG


Here's the grinding in progress. There's a damp paper towel and I'm using the vacuum cleaner as I grind. The dust can really screw up an injector if it's not well controlled. Grrrr!!
I wound up cutting more out to the right than what is shown in this picture. Then, if positioned JUST RIGHT, the clamp could barely clear - with some force.

IMG_2111.JPG


It's tight!

IMG_2112.JPG


I had very slightly stretched the O-ring (because it kept popping out of the groove due to being just under diameter) and lubricated it with silicone grease. Now, after cleaning the bits of aluminum dust from everything, I could assemble it. I gave a last-chance inspection for O-ring seating and wire clearance, and ran the locking nuts down in turn. There are eight nuts, so, I tightened every third one a bit at a time until they're all down.

I removed the pressure regulator and plugged it with the supplied plug. These O-rings get a thin film of silicone grease too.

IMG_2113.JPG


The inlet to the pump is the sock filter. It's going to be in fuel virtually always because it sits just 1/4" off of the floor. The foam helps to minimize fuel slosh, especially critical, in this instance, during deceleration. The pickup sock is also deliberately positioned towards the rear of the vehicle. Thus, fuel will try to slam into the sock's pockets during acceleration.
For the return line, I'll use the fuel cell's original pickup tube. It's going to return the fuel to the bottom of the tank and, thus, minimize the amount of air mixed into the returning fuel.

The pump will run "open," with the pressure regulation done at the throttle body. Any excess fuel delivered by the pump will be returned via the throttle body's regulator. This will allow the fuel to circulate and should greatly reduce any tendency to vapor lock. As well, the pump's life should be extended because it's being cooled by the bulk of fuel in the cell.

The feed line will be 1/2" (8-AN) and the return line will be 3/8" (6-AN). This should support the entire design of 730 HP. It's supposed to be good for "up to 800 HP" with the HyperFuel 40019 setup.

We'll see!


- dad
 
Last edited:
Your getting closer to running it, will there be video of the event?
There better be.
I'm eager to see it too. :)
Here's a completely unrelated picture to ease everyone's eagerness.
20170827_190346.jpg
 
Last edited:
As an efi guy, I'm super interested to hear how the fitech fuel cell setup works. After their debacle of fuel problems with the command center I lost trust in anything fitech. Hope it works out for you. Do you any fi experience?
 
As an efi guy, I'm super interested to hear how the fitech fuel cell setup works. After their debacle of fuel problems with the command center I lost trust in anything fitech. Hope it works out for you. Do you any fi experience?
Not until now, as far as installing and planning. I've owned several FI systems. By far, my favorite so far is the 1st gen Cummins mechanical injection system. It's absolute mechanical genius.
I'm still extremely surprised that there was a BLATANT clearance issue on the stupid hose clamp. Shame on them.
Anyway, it was an opportunity to overcome. It should be a darn good setup once it's all ironed out.

Edit - this could have been solved by using a spring-type hose clamp, except that the pressure on this line will be quite high.
As it is, this short section of hose may need to be inspected and/or changed at the annual foam/fuel cell inspection. Dylan, this is something that you should check regularly.

- dad
 
Last edited:
As an efi guy, I'm super interested to hear how the fitech fuel cell setup works. After their debacle of fuel problems with the command center I lost trust in anything fitech. Hope it works out for you. Do you any fi experience?
When I get the car I'll keep everyone posted on performance and my thoughts on FI vs a carburetor.
 
I've temporarily put the beast in storage to get code enforcement off of my back. To quip David Bowie - It's so hard to get by in the city..
I'll get it ready for exhaust and then I'll need to trailer it to get that done by a pro. The FI won't behave well without an O2 sensor. That requires an exhaust system. I drove Lone Star, our 1967 Satellite, to work today. It's downright immaculate.
IMG_5343.JPG

And now, a brief intermission:
IMG_1344.PNG


Tell that stinky neighbor to talk to this!

Foot.jpg
 
BTW:
I've found many useful wiring components at Crimp Supply. I've gotten a fuse box that will be used to house breakers and fuses for the fan, water pump, tick-tock controller, EFI, etc. It's got two supply circuits so one will be battery and one will be ignition-controlled power. You have to add the connections for whatever you're supplying. I bought 16 gauge and 12 gauge terminals, I can crimp them myself. Some of their things aren't exactly cheap, but, they have a rather vast selection of (predominantly newer) stuff.
Fuse Panel.JPG


CrimpSupply.com | In Stock and Available to Ship Today
 
MAIL CALL!
The scatter shield arrived. Yeah!

IMG_2207.JPG
IMG_2208.JPG


Oh, and, I got a smoking good deal on this yesterday:
IMG_2204.JPG



That's right. 3 & 1/2" bigbigbig
Smiley's gave it to us for just over 1/2 price.
 
So you can't even work on anything at home without the city getting after you or is it's the neighbors?
 
Back
Top