what is best oil to use on 1978 Chrysler with 400 engine?
- Thread starter Fred A
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The_Eagles’_Nest
Well-Known Member
Depends on where you live. I use 10W40 and a bottle of Lucas ZDDP. I have no preference on brand but I used a synthetic blend.
Did Chrysler ever put roller lifters in the RB engines?
bronze turbine
Active Member
I've done a bit of research and I'd say that the best oil for any of these engines with flat tappet cams is Amsoil classic and hot rod oil. (Amsoil Z-rod).
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Lord help me
You predicted it. Just saying...
To the OP, my weapon of choice is Brad Penn/Penn Grade Motor Oil | Brad Penn | PennGrade 1® High Performance Motor Oil I use 10W-40 and it's a semi-synthetic oil.
I don't use any additives...
I use this oil in three different cars of different mileage and engine conditions. It all behaves just fine... I also use Wix or Napa Gold oil filters.
You should be using a high zinc classic car oil. Castrol GTX Classic. Lucas Hotrod/ Muscle car oil, Brad Penn/ Penn grade. Etc...
https://www.castrol.com/en_us/unite...oil-brands/castrol-gtx-brand/gtx-classic.html
www.lucasoil.ca
penngrade1.com
https://www.castrol.com/en_us/unite...oil-brands/castrol-gtx-brand/gtx-classic.html
Hot Rod & Classic Car Motor Oil | Lucas Oil Products
Lucas Hot Rod & Classic Car Motor Oil is manufactured with the highest quality paraffinic base oils and is fortified with a unique additive package containing high levels of zinc, molybdenum and phosphorus, which provides a tougher, thicker additive film for maximum protection even under the...High Performance Oils -
IF you listen to Lake Speed, he'll recommend the Driven Oil he designed while working for the Joe Gibbs Racing organization. For some reason, he does not like Amsoil, although Amsoil was the first oil maker to really court the older-car owners. BTAIM
If the engine is stock, or close to it, I suspect that the current "SP" designation oil might work sell, as it is supposed to have 900ppm of zddp in it. Otherwise an "SL" rated oil is supposed to have 1000+ppm of zddp in it. One of the qualifications the SP oil has to meet has to do with "timing chain pin wear", which might be higher unit-loading than a flat tappet lifter might see with strong valve springs, possibly.
I would head toward at least a semi-syn for the better oil basestocks used. Valvoline oils seem to have gained a good bit of "moly" in their more recent formulations. The most in their full-syn oils, a bit less in their red-bottle "High Mileage" oils. It's available at WalMart and other places, which can be a plus to many. WalMart also carries the "SL" black-bottle Castrol syn motor oil in 5W-30, too.
Castrol sometimes has "GTX Classic" 20W-50 motor oil, with higher zddp levels. Mr. L Speed has a video on it and how the additional/higher zddp also helps main bearings last longer.
When the cars were built, 10W-30 and 10W-40 were readily available and used. Although lower and higher viscosities could be used in particular temperature environments.
Shop around and figure the end costs. Amsoil high zddp, Castrol GTX Classic, Brad Penn, Driven OR to use modern semi-syn or full-syn and add some zddp additive. Even some of the Liqui-Moly Moly additive?
In the middle 1970s, I chose to use Castrol GTX (the ORIGINAL GTX, different from what it is now) in everything. Before I started using it, my '70 Monaco 383 4bbl would start to surge at over 4500rpm at WOT. The Castrol GTX stopped that issue. Years later, I did an oil analysis and it had something like 1400ppm zddp in it. Which (zddp) was what the old "STUD" oil additive had in it, back then. On another engine of a car I bought new, with GTX 20W-50, it went 500K miles before it needed new freeze plugs, and was changed. On that same engine, when I upgraded to a 4bbl with a better cam at 92K miles, the lifter valley was pristine, with only soft accumulations in some of the low spots of the casting. I was impressed (4000mile oil changes), as were others that saw it.
In my '80 Newport 360, after I got it so hot the needle on the gauge vanished to the "H" side, and the LED warning light went out, easing it to the house, after taking water breaks every 10 miles or so, and taking an hour to get it cooled down enough (while idling) for the gauge to return to normal, the Castrol GTX 10W-40 did NOT smell cooked at all. As if nothing had happened! Yet the Valve cover gaskets were very crispy crittered! This was in the middle 1990s. I would hope that modern Castrol oil would do similar. Just my experiences.
In the earlier 1970s, I had a college prof who did SCCA autocross racing with a Jensen-Healey he bought new. Those cars were notorious for losing water pumps, which his did between Amarillo and Lubbock one day. When he noticed the heat gauge going up, he knew what happened and found a service station (in the middle of nowhere, on the main highway) to get it cooled down. He then drove in on in to Home. When he sold the car, he instructed the new owner to ONLY use Castrol motor oil due to the water pump issue. The new owner acknowledged the recommendation, but then later took it to the dealer who used normal-brand oil in it. Later, the water pump went away and the engine cooked.
For oil analysis numbers, you can look at www.bobistheoilguy.com under "Virgin Oil Analysis". There are a few other motor oil forums/testing entities (PQIA is one) that post oil analysis results, too. NOTHING is generic, although they can meet the same end-specs. But almost everything available today is far better than the oils the engines were designed for in the 1970s, much less the mid-1950s. Nobody worried about zddp levels back then, but then recommended oil changes were at 3000mile intervals, until Ford introduced their 6000 mile intervals in 1963.
Personally, I like oils that can be found locally and are available for a decent price. If you do your own changes, then Summit Racing and their "free shipping" can be used to your advantage. Check some local speed shops, too, for a reference point. Find what works for where you are, financially.
Filters? We always used the old Ford Motorcraft FL-1A filters on our Chryslers. Almost every service station around here had them in stock (for Fords) and we knew they were OEM-level quality at a decent price. They crossed with the Chrysler "long" filter, but there should be one for the Chrysler "short" filter, too. Otherwise, Wix, NAPA, and Purolator.
Shop well . . .
CBODY67
If the engine is stock, or close to it, I suspect that the current "SP" designation oil might work sell, as it is supposed to have 900ppm of zddp in it. Otherwise an "SL" rated oil is supposed to have 1000+ppm of zddp in it. One of the qualifications the SP oil has to meet has to do with "timing chain pin wear", which might be higher unit-loading than a flat tappet lifter might see with strong valve springs, possibly.
I would head toward at least a semi-syn for the better oil basestocks used. Valvoline oils seem to have gained a good bit of "moly" in their more recent formulations. The most in their full-syn oils, a bit less in their red-bottle "High Mileage" oils. It's available at WalMart and other places, which can be a plus to many. WalMart also carries the "SL" black-bottle Castrol syn motor oil in 5W-30, too.
Castrol sometimes has "GTX Classic" 20W-50 motor oil, with higher zddp levels. Mr. L Speed has a video on it and how the additional/higher zddp also helps main bearings last longer.
When the cars were built, 10W-30 and 10W-40 were readily available and used. Although lower and higher viscosities could be used in particular temperature environments.
Shop around and figure the end costs. Amsoil high zddp, Castrol GTX Classic, Brad Penn, Driven OR to use modern semi-syn or full-syn and add some zddp additive. Even some of the Liqui-Moly Moly additive?
In the middle 1970s, I chose to use Castrol GTX (the ORIGINAL GTX, different from what it is now) in everything. Before I started using it, my '70 Monaco 383 4bbl would start to surge at over 4500rpm at WOT. The Castrol GTX stopped that issue. Years later, I did an oil analysis and it had something like 1400ppm zddp in it. Which (zddp) was what the old "STUD" oil additive had in it, back then. On another engine of a car I bought new, with GTX 20W-50, it went 500K miles before it needed new freeze plugs, and was changed. On that same engine, when I upgraded to a 4bbl with a better cam at 92K miles, the lifter valley was pristine, with only soft accumulations in some of the low spots of the casting. I was impressed (4000mile oil changes), as were others that saw it.
In my '80 Newport 360, after I got it so hot the needle on the gauge vanished to the "H" side, and the LED warning light went out, easing it to the house, after taking water breaks every 10 miles or so, and taking an hour to get it cooled down enough (while idling) for the gauge to return to normal, the Castrol GTX 10W-40 did NOT smell cooked at all. As if nothing had happened! Yet the Valve cover gaskets were very crispy crittered! This was in the middle 1990s. I would hope that modern Castrol oil would do similar. Just my experiences.
In the earlier 1970s, I had a college prof who did SCCA autocross racing with a Jensen-Healey he bought new. Those cars were notorious for losing water pumps, which his did between Amarillo and Lubbock one day. When he noticed the heat gauge going up, he knew what happened and found a service station (in the middle of nowhere, on the main highway) to get it cooled down. He then drove in on in to Home. When he sold the car, he instructed the new owner to ONLY use Castrol motor oil due to the water pump issue. The new owner acknowledged the recommendation, but then later took it to the dealer who used normal-brand oil in it. Later, the water pump went away and the engine cooked.
For oil analysis numbers, you can look at www.bobistheoilguy.com under "Virgin Oil Analysis". There are a few other motor oil forums/testing entities (PQIA is one) that post oil analysis results, too. NOTHING is generic, although they can meet the same end-specs. But almost everything available today is far better than the oils the engines were designed for in the 1970s, much less the mid-1950s. Nobody worried about zddp levels back then, but then recommended oil changes were at 3000mile intervals, until Ford introduced their 6000 mile intervals in 1963.
Personally, I like oils that can be found locally and are available for a decent price. If you do your own changes, then Summit Racing and their "free shipping" can be used to your advantage. Check some local speed shops, too, for a reference point. Find what works for where you are, financially.
Filters? We always used the old Ford Motorcraft FL-1A filters on our Chryslers. Almost every service station around here had them in stock (for Fords) and we knew they were OEM-level quality at a decent price. They crossed with the Chrysler "long" filter, but there should be one for the Chrysler "short" filter, too. Otherwise, Wix, NAPA, and Purolator.
Shop well . . .
CBODY67
Last edited:
496 polara
Member
The Lucas hotrod oil in 10w30 is what I have in three engines. Napa gold oil filters as well. It helps the local Napa has the Lucas in stock.
Just did a cam break in on a 454 with a hyd flat tappet and all is well so far.
Just did a cam break in on a 454 with a hyd flat tappet and all is well so far.
carguy300
Well-Known Member
I ran Amsoil 10-40 in both my 300's.
Luke Pokrajac
Active Member
I've had great luck with LiquiMoly 10W-60 in my 383 with 135K on the short block. Rings are a bit loose, and it has reduced oil consumption to about 1qt every 2K miles. I put in a bottle of zinc additive with the LiquiMoly. Engine runs very smooth and lunati voodoo cam is a bit quieter with the LiquiMoly.
Rainy Day
Member
Valvoline VR1 20w/50 for me. It is a high zinc oil for flat tappet cams.
My personal choice has been 10w30 Valvoline VR1 w/ a bottle of Lucas Zinc additive. The added zinc additive combined w/ the VR1 gives excellent results. The viscosity benefits is critical lubrication the upper valvetrain gets there much faster thereby minimizing cold start wear. With some of our cars sitting for long periods of time the gains are tremendous long term. I have 36,000 + miles on my 69 300 and oil related wear has been near zero detected. As a retired engine builder, I have seen the results of engine wear / failures from using inadequate oil and low zinc protection firsthand.
tbm3fan
Old Man with a Hat
Wondering when someone would mention that oil. I use VR1 10W-30 in all but the Polara which gets 20W-50. The four Fords all have rebuilt engines with under 20,000 miles while the Polara is not rebuilt yet at 77,000 miles. Filters are Motorcraft except the Ambassador which is Wix. Seems no cross reference for the car.
bronze turbine
Active Member
I used to use VR-1, it's got all the zinc you need (better off not adding any additives to it). But, being a racing oil, it's not designed to be left in your car for extended periods of time and does not have the ideal amount of detergents and corrosion protection for engines that are driven infrequently and stored for extended periods. Classic car oils are designed with this in mind. Amsoil and Driven are rated high in the test results I've looked at. Lucas not so much. VR-1 is rated high, but according to their own website it's not recommended for cars that aren't driven much and are stored a lot.
This is just my 2 cents.
This is just my 2 cents.
Plymouth man
Member
I use the Castrol 20w50 in all my mopars since the early 90s
ynst
Member
That's what I've been running in my early hemi in the '34 as well as in my one-owner '68 GTX ever since the government mandated the elimination of zinc in automotive lubricants.
Depends on whether your definition of "best" is the most expensive or the least expensive. Most expensive is any of the name brand oils that advertise they're full of zin and manganese and are the cat's *** for flat tappet engines. The least expensive is to use your choice of modern oil (which doesn't have zinc or manganese in it) and stop by your Chevy dealer and ask for a bottle of "Engine Oil Supplement". Where I am, these bottles are about $8, and one bottle does four oil changes for me. This is what the GM Dealers use on those rare occasions when they actually rebuild somebody's engine instead of just popping in a warranty replacement.
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