Who has upgraded from RV-2 to Sanden?

There is not much to go wrong with a RV2 short of breaking a rod or some other catastrophic event. It is usually the bearings or something stuck in the vavles in the heads that makes it knock.
 
commando1 said:
1. Restore Your Mopar's A/C System - Tech Articles - Mopar Muscle Magazine
2. Restore Your Mopar's A/C System Part II - Tech Articles - Mopar Muscle Magazine
3. Restore Your Mopar's A/C System Part III - Tech Articles - Mopar Muscle Magazine
Click to expand...
The highlight of those articles for me was (in 1999) "Classic Auto Air has shelves full of clutches for these compressors"... Today, all that seems to be available is remans and a few NOS pieces that are overpriced and questionable in condition. I trusted R12 a lot more then too... I do not trust it now without a refrigerant identifier... which I don't own.
SuicideDoorLincoln said:
Pulled my car out from winter storage , found the original rv2 compressor to be knocking. I looked into this upgrade but I think I am going to stick with the rv2 compressor since I already have new lines and a NOS condensor. I spoke with original air and they want my old compressor and 10-12 weeks to rebuild it. Which is ridiculous . I refuse to buy a four seasons or a-1 car done. Has anyone used a napa pump or have a suggestion for a place to purchase a nice rv2 done in house? I don't really want to change my setup since I charged it with r12 4 years ago and have zero leaks. I suspect the leak sealer I put in it at the time of charging did a number on the compressor. does old air products, and vintage auto air sell new reman compressors?
Click to expand...
Careful, if you have metallic debris in the system, flushing won't assure it has all gotten out of the condenser or mufflers. I have been considering adding a filter to my new hoses, just to assure I don't wipe out future compressors.
 
What is the proper name for this type of connection. This is the steel line that runs from the drier up the passenger fender to the firewall. I would like to create some new hard lines when I do the conversion, but I cannot find the nuts. Most likely because I'm not calling them the right thing.
IMG_6746.JPG
IMG_6747.JPG
 
I was researching a/c compressors a few years ago, notably to replace a GM A6. That when I found out there are about 15 different backs for Sanden compressors! Even one with factory GM fittings! I never did like the "insect antennae" fittings most Sandens seem to have on them.

In prior research . . . the factory OEM systems which do not cycle the compressor have a throttling mechanism to keep the evap core at optimum, non-froze-p, temperature. On GM and many Fords, it's the POA valve, earlier GMs had a Hot Gas By-Pass valve, and Chryslers had the EPR (evaporator pressure regulator). Many claim these valves are 'not adjustable for service', but they ARE adjustable. How would they do the basic calibration when they are built?

In an old www.ackits.com forum, it was revealed that EACH of those factory valves are adjustable to allow use of R134a. Just turn the adjusting screw/bolt about 1/2, or a little more, turn ccw. With the a/c fan not running (unplugged) with the a/c on, the R12 evap pressure is about 29.5, with the adjustment, it should be about 26.5 with R134a, which should yield 40 degree vent temps . . . from what the posters noted. Change the oil, too. Might be able to use old hoses if they don't leak. Gas amount is about 3/4th of factory specs for R12. Pressure differentials are the same as for R12, just different pressure levels.

On Chrysler systems which cycle the clutch, the EPR valve can be added into the rh line at the compressor and unplug the cycling switch. Then an A-body compressor thinks it's in a New Yorker!

When the R134a was a subject of angst, in the 1990s, a friend worked at 4 Seasons. He said the GM A6, the Ford Tecumseh, and Chrysler RV2 were plenty stout to run the R134a pressures. They recommended flushing the system by putting a recycle machine on "full liquid" to flush the system of all of the old oil, then put new R134a oil in with the R134a. That was then and, as suspected, newer universal oils are now available. Changing O-rings and such might still need to be done. He said that initial testing, which didn't work well, was done with the chemical company recommendations of 10% MORE gas. When they went to 10% less gas (than a R12 system), vent temps dropped.

Condensor capacity is important, as it air flow across/through it at slow speeds and such. It's claimed the "mass flow" condenser works better than the old "serpentine flow" OEM condensers, with R134a.

My 1980 Newport 360 has a Denso (Sanden-style) a/c compressor, so that can be a source for brackets and such, from salvage yards. Probably 1979 and up?

Naturally, the Sanden-style compressor is an axial compressor, like the GM A6, but with lower displacement and different materials, it takes less power to run it. The old RV2/A6 systems used to cost about 2mpg on the highway. The Sandens should be less.

Great information about installations!

CBODY67
 
The objective for today is to remove some of the old stuff and start fitting up the new stuff so that I can make brackets and figure out hose sizes, lengths and end orientations. As I looked at the new compressor I have a curious questions.

What are the two ports on the back with the black caps for?
IMG_6748.JPG

Do they make it unnecessary to have two connections like the ones below?
upload_2017-6-3_14-9-35.jpeg

Thanks for the help.
 
"Metal debris" in the system, from a failed compressor is not good. Many compressor vendors also want to see the drier and such replaced along with the compressor. There used to be a flush fluid we'd get from NAPA, but the price rose to $50 for the gallon jug, then unobtanium. Some used water or brake cleaner, with mixed results. GM finally came out and said to use an inline filter and change it when it got plugged/restricted with debris. There are/were several configurations of the inline filters. The "pancake" version is quite obvious. Be sure to get the filter without the orifice tube built into it, get the one that is just a filter.

CBODY67
 
Polara_500 said:
And what's the verdict now that you've driven it that way? How much of the system did you change besides the compressor? Considering going that route since the parts for the old RV-2's seem to be getting harder to find and some folks are claiming issues with R-134 compatibility. Don't know that deviating from original is all that big a deal to me, sure not building it for resale.

The last long road trip I did the compressor failed, took two days to get a rebuilt and then I had to swap it out myself with minimal road trip toolbox as all the shops were too busy. Thankfully I wasn't in a hurry to get anywhere.
Click to expand...

I had my trusty A/C shop do it for my 72 Newport and have been happy. Cools just as well. Good riddance to that troublesome V-2 compressor that was hard on belts. Had to use a different length of belts, though- and remember what size they are. Receiver drier always has to be changed in a conversion.

Don't know if the conversion kit for the Big Block engine with bracket and everything is still available, though.
 
I wanted to thank everyone on this year old thread for lots of good information, I just got my 66 Monaco wagon and am in the same research mode as the OP. I do have one question, my car has a dual system with a second evaporator roof mounted and a buttload of extra line going to it. Would the Sanden type compressor have enough volume to handle all that compared to the original?
 
Big_John said:
I've been using this seller on Ebay.
MR FOMOCO MOTORCRAFT | eBay Stores

He seems to have the best selection at good prices... and the listings were easy to search. He called me once when Ebay started using the cart system and there was a hiccup. Really nice, knowledgeable guy.
Click to expand...
If this guy is still selling stuff I would go with him. I'm not saying he's the cheapest, but he is very knowledgeable and helpful to boot.
 
The GM A-6 compressor is about 10cid. I believe the Sanden-size is about 8cid? I suspect it would work fine, but might need an aux electric fan in front of the a/c condenser to keep air moving through it.

CBODY67
 
I highly recommend changing out the condensor for a modern parallel flow and with pusher fans.
Every last BTU you can squeeze out of your new updated system counts..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

live4theking
Converting from RV-2 to Sanden
3 4 5
Replies
93
Views
31K
Ross Wooldridge
Ross Wooldridge
Back
Top