Thanks for the updates. Problem with many roller cam upgrades is the VALVE LIFT and longer duration of the roller cam vs. a flat tappet cam. Many rollers have over .500 lift, which will mean other things needs to be done for piston crown clearance and such. It WILL be more expensive, just for the basic cam kit.
To me, using a roller side-steps all of any future oil formulation changes, rather than chasing specialized oils from certain vendors. BUT I don't need a high-lift long duration cam just to use roller lifters, but that's all many vendors sell. Figuring that if you "go roller", you're also "going racing".
As for the Comp Cams optional nitride treatment? I highly suspect that the cam lobe hardness treatment they had been using was adequate for when the oils had more zddp in it. It seems that this whole "lobe wipe-out" issue started with the aftermarket and other non-factory brand cams. With the OEMs doing a nitride treatment that was "deeper" and better, as a matter of course. When we went through the old Buick V-6 engine plant in Flint, on the tour we went by a machine that was doing the Parkerizing treatment. Took less than a minute. Not sure if the liquid was stronger or if the aftermarket brands do it quicker?
After seeing the thread of the Comp Cams roller separators coming apart, about a year or so ago, I asked an associate if he'd ever seen that on a street motor? Reason is that in all of the older race motors I'd been around, that's the ONLY way to keep the rollers "in place" and aligned. He said that he'd never seen that happen in a race motor. The OEM GM small block roller cam motors (for production engines with normal horsepower ratings), they use a metal "spider" (which bolts to two bosses in the lifter valley hump) to keep all of the lifters aligned. Not sure how Chrysler did it on their later roller LA motors, but suspect something similar. On the GM LS motors, they use plastic trays (one on each lifter bank) to keep the lifters aligned and in place. We had one 6.0L box van that needed a new cam about every 70K miles, as one lifter would turn a bit and that lobe was worn excessively . . . enough to lose power with a faint tick in the motor).
It sounds like the shop will take good care of you, which is good. I'd find a different brand cam (same price and general specs), if possible, but if they desire to use a Comp product again, let that be their call. Then, possibly, see if one of them will be present when you get things put back together and initially started. That way, everybody knows it was installed well and broke-in correctly.
Keep us posted,
CBODY67
