WOT the heck?

[Dan Scully]

Put the rear of the car up on jackstands, with the wheels off the ground no chance of anything or anyone getting hurt. Pock and prod and anything else you want to test with no risk.

 

[Avout]

I checked the motor mount with the hood up. You can see the engine and air cleaner while in the driver's seat. Sure enough, even though this car has a throttle cable, and no linkage rods, I was able to replicate the WOT situation, while keeping foot firmly on the brakes. It looked like the engine wanted to jump out of the engine bay! So I guess I'm going to crawl under there after all and modify that mount. Or should I replace it all together? If so, should I get a Summit variety replacement? My car is just a weekend warrior, no racing etc, and I like to keep things quiet and comfy.

Also, any pointers on where I can find handy r-n-r procedures/videos? I found a video on Youtube, but that was for a '64 already out of the vehicle

Thanks again everyone.

 

[CBODY67]

Usually it is the lh mount that fails, although the rh mount might if it were in the same situation. So it might be wise to Ck I ONSIDER doing both, but the lh first. Until you get there, you can get some stiff wire and loop it though the lh mount (several times) so that it will stay together a little better, possibly. What I did on the '66 Newport, then drove easily until I could get back home and get it replaced.

There should be a procedure in the FSM, jacking up the motor with a floor jack and block of wood via the crankshaft balalcer, I believe, with the car on an overhead lift or securely resting on strong jack stands. Possibly a YouTube video, too? You'll most probably need to remove the fan shroud to not break it with the fan.

NO need to get something from Summit, just something from your local auto supply should work just as well. IF there is an "interlocking mount" option, that would be like what the Chevy mounts superceded into, such that if the rubber fails again, there is a structure in the mount to "catch things" so the motor will only move upward so far. That style mount would be optimum, to me.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[Avout]

Update:

Replaced the motor mount, you called it Justin Plant! Figured that at $9.- at 'O Reilly's, I just get a new one. Also modified that new mount, thanks Trace 300 Hurst for that link on how to modify it. Works like a champ, no more problems.

As far as the linkage is concerned, yes it is a cable linkage. However, the pic shows the new one on the left and the old one on the right. As you can see, it took a beating! The excess movement of the engine ripped the retainer end right off the cable end, and is probably also the reason why it slipped off the clamp at the carburetor end every time after I clamped it back in place. In fact, this is where my troubles started months ago, so if anyone has a problem with their throttle cable not staying in place, check your motor mounts. The cable also got chafed in multiple spots as it got pulled against the various brackets and weld seam on the firewall. Replacement cable is slightly too long, but it can be modified. Only other observation I have is that the designer who put that hole for the linkage cable in the location where it is, oughta be fired!

Thanks again all for all the replies

 

[Justin Plant]

Glad you found the issues. Enjoy it before the weather changes!

 

[MEV]

So I have this weird problem. From one day to the next, without anything touched or changed, my car likes to go WOT when I pull out of a standstill. This is quite scary if you're gently attempting to drive out of a parking stall or at a crosswalk, not to mention the looks of dismay as the 383 is getting to work full blast with squealing tires. It seems to stay in WOT until 2nd gear, where it drops back down by itself to whatever the accelerator pedal is at. I checked all the linkages, pedal and springs. Nothing seems stuck, loose, broken, binding, sticking or what have you. I disconnected the kickdown linkage to see if maybe something was affecting the throttle linkage, but it made no difference.

This only happens if I come from a standstill. As soon as I go 10-20mph, I can't replicate it.

It's not doing it in reverse either.

For years it was fine, until from one day to the next, it decided to act up this way

Chrysler '66 300. Engine is a 383, pretty much stock, aside from edelbrock 383 intake and Edelbrock 1406 carburetor, with the factory transmission.

Maybe someone has a few pointers for me to look at?

All help is greatly appreciated

That is very weird, my new yorker will often go to full throttle. The only correlation i can identify, is that it usually happens when there is a camaro, chevelle, mustang, charger, dump truck, or a honda civic near by me.