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That's the larger-size carb used on 383s and also on 360s I believe. It is also called a BBD - who knows why???

While we're in the neighborhood: On a small block it is important to verify that hte exhaust crossover passage in the heads/intake is open and flowing. It's important on any stock carb'd engine for good cold-warmup and fuel atomization. I've never had a bigblock get plugged up, but every 318...

You shall have nussing and you vill be glad wiss it.

Nah, we'll shoot that toxic stuff into outer space. We'll have Boeing do it and it will stay up there, unable to return.

Yes, the problem starting right after changing pan/filter was the major clue. I swapped a carb 25-ish years ago and started getting flare on teh 2-3 shift. Knew it wasn't the trans going out, that it was carb-related, it was too coincidental. I knew about hte KD linkage, but it was adjusted...

For reference, the 2-hole filter is for use with 65-older transmissions that had a rear pump in addition to the front one. But as mentioned, gotta watch for alum case vs cast iron.

Detroit Diesel Alpine Green might be a semi-correct option if you can't find anything else. Detroit Diesel Alpine Green - Google Search

Where are these humps available at and what's the price? Are they steel or the fiberglass ones from years ago, that went OOP and were reportedly going to be resurrected?

We're gonna hafta talk about those templates next time we meet.

I read a guy on FBBO that had good luck with a set in some dyno testing he'd done, but they were worked on quite a bit IIRC. Not worth the effort vs 906s. UNLESS a guy wants crisp throttle response, that's where the small ports and valves shine. But yes, that's not the goal here.

Good luck finding one of those template kits, last I knew they have been OOP for years. If the scaled data were available, they could be 3D printed or CNC-routered pretty easily, though.

Brewers has the Brewers has the Z-bars, so probably not worth you pursuing that part. Frame brackets should probably be re-designed so that it can install easily and not like the original, which was welded on top of the framerail, probably before the subframe was married to the body tub...

No internet, no cellphone and wants local pickup - that's 2 strikes and #3 as a foul ball. You might need to broker/ship these parts for him? The pedals would be a reasonable price at $300 or so. Worth more if the other clutch rods and stuff are available. ~20ish years ago I bought and sold...

Those 2 exhaust valves in the middle, top of picture, are exaclty the condition I was thinking of when I mentioned pressurizing the cylinder and popping the valve stem with a deadblow hammer. Lots of crust would be coming out of those 2. What would remain of those seats would probably be enough...

Here's the loose shifter I have. The red arrow points to a cotter pin, logically there's a spring and ball inside that item. There's a switch, and right at the R location there's a bump in the arc-path that moves the switch button. I am now wondering what this shifter is for, as both the...

I will certainly admit that sometimes I am wrong, although this time I am confused. Here's the pic from that FBBO thread, at first glance, the one on the left seems to be the one to match yours (and John's) as it has the cable clevis on it. But the rooster comb in this pic appears narrower, and...

Agreed, the sludge is not bad at all. And those crossover passages can get fully plugged, these would still be capable of doing their job. I've had 2 318s and they both did it to me, fully plugged. One one of them, the 2nd time it plugged it was so far down near the end of the passage I...

@D Cluley This pic seems not correct for a 65 trans, it shows a rooster comb, which would be used in a 66-up unit. 1965 has the detents in the shifter mechanism. But thanks for the effort of finding and posting the pics, they are surely helpful to whomever reads this.

Using this pic from @D Cluley, I would recommend checking this first, as you need do all of this to change the VB anyway. Disconnect the shift cable (lime color) and rotate the lever arms out of the way. See if the shift valve moves freely, you should feel some spring pressure behind it, too...

Metals expand with heat. If it's 'one piece', it expands outward in all directions. But with a split in it, it still expands outward. So the material on both sides of the crack seemingly would be expanding toward each other, to try to close it. But the block is also expanding to become...