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Welcome from Wisconsin!

You are probably ok. It is just in a different mode that when you took it apart. If you have a mity vac, you can test your vacuum modules to verify movement from heat to defrost and such. As was mentioned, the FSM is very helpful.

I am wondering about your serpentine belt system. I installed a March pulley serpentine setup on my 70 Challenger many years ago. I had all the headaches you are dealing with now. Turns out, the March pulleys are "underdrive" meaning they are smaller pulleys designed to use less horsepower. They...

My question is "Why the concern on pulling the distributor?" None more simpler than a big block Mopar to re-orient.

Just as important is to verify less than .5 ohms of resistance between battery neg and the case of the orange box. A bad case ground will result in the transistor overheating and will open the circuit putting you on the side of the road until it cools down. Some of the Chinese units are more...

I too have mistakenly hit that Red X button. You can go back and remove it. I thought it was gone and no longer an option.

A big block and power steering. Seems ample to me.

That does look like a pretty nice light for the money. I too have a problem with the light switch on the Braun. It seems like I am forever bumping it off. Oh well, What would we do if there was nothing to complain about.

I agree with the bad switch. My 60 Dart had the same problem. It was my cue to swap in a dual bowl master and while I was at it, I robbed a brake light switch from a 65 Dodge and mounted it to the brake pedal eliminating that pressure switch.

I have two of these Braun lights. They are my go to every time now. I have a 25' corded trouble light on a recoil mounted to the ceiling but have not used it since I found these.

There are a few threads on here concerning the molasses bath. I use a large tote. Buy a gallon of molasses from the farm store and mix it with 7 gallons of water in the tote. Toss in what I want to de-rust and let it sit for a few days. The bath will dissolve the rust. It is a cheap method and...

I'm pretty sure once you get the stalling issue worked out your problems will be over. The condensation builds up in the mufflers on cold starts and never really gets dried out because of the stalling in a couple minutes. If it is fuel related, I would suspect your fuel filter is clogged or the...

If you don't want to remove it, you could toss the whole housing in a large tote with a molasses concoction. After a few days the rust would be gone and it wouldn't hurt the fiber housing. You could then clean it up with some soap n water and spray some clear coat on. Should be good for another...

It is one piece but you should be able to get it out. I think when I did mine, I popped it out of the bottom hole, then finagled it through the metal bracket without removing that bracket but it has been a lot of years. At least I don't recall having to rivet that bracket back on to the housing...

Absolutely would restore that car. Much too nice to part out. Congrats on the find and thanks for sharing.

I too, vote for getting your booster rebuilt and swapping in a dual bowl master from a later C body. Stay away from mis-matching brake parts from other manufacturers. Brakes are way too important for all that trial and error.

I have both of those too. The Harbor Freight Mity Vac kit is my go to system also for the same reasons

I added this to my Sport Fury and eliminated the push button all together. If you have a vacuum release, you are stuck with adding the button. 12V 15A Momentary contact switch with 2 wireless remote control key fobs RM11 | eBay

Here is what to do........Click on the message envelope, then click "show all", check all of the boxes of messages you want to get rid of, then scroll to the bottom of the page. You will see Private messages. Click on the "choose action" and select "leave conversations". Then click Go and...

Try deleting all your temporary files then do a shut down and restart. Sometimes that works for me.