16lb rad. cap too much for heater core?

[Rosco]

The short version is that the copper in the brass heater core is an anode, the aluminum in the radiator is a cathode. Ions are transferred from the aluminum resulting in oxidation of the radiator, left unchecked this will eventually cause the radiator to fail. Modern cooling systems eliminate the copper in the heater (anode) core so that the ion transfer can not take place. Keeping the coolant fresh prevents it from becoming acidic which also prevents the ion transfer (galvanic action).

Dave

Hi Dave,
I was hoping to get your opinion on electrical system grounding. I've been reading that some mopars had an additional ground strap/wire from the battery to a radiator mounting bolt. Would this be an issue with an aluminum radiator? Could the ground add to the galvanic action of the aluminum?
I believe I only have one ground strap (besides the cable from the battery to the engine block) from the passenger side cyl. head to the firewall. Is this adequate? Would it be a good idea to add one between the frame/chassis and the body for any reason? I've read that it's good to have a ground from the engine to the firewall and chassis. With the uni-body design of my 1968 Fury ll is a ground to the "frame"/chassis necessary?
I also read stories about speedo cables burning up from being used as a ground source where there wasn't an existing one. Would this be a reason to ground from the engine/firewall to the frame?
Appreciate your thoughts.

 

[Davea Lux]

Hi Dave,
I was hoping to get your opinion on electrical system grounding. I've been reading that some mopars had an additional ground strap/wire from the battery to a radiator mounting bolt. Would this be an issue with an aluminum radiator? Could the ground add to the galvanic action of the aluminum?
I believe I only have one ground strap (besides the cable from the battery to the engine block) from the passenger side cyl. head to the firewall. Is this adequate? Would it be a good idea to add one between the frame/chassis and the body for any reason? I've read that it's good to have a ground from the engine to the firewall and chassis. With the uni-body design of my 1968 Fury ll is a ground to the "frame"/chassis necessary?
I also read stories about speedo cables burning up from being used as a ground source where there wasn't an existing one. Would this be a reason to ground from the engine/firewall to the frame?
Appreciate your thoughts.

Most Mopars have a ground strap from the negative battery cable to the driver side fender, this should ground the core support assuming the connections are clean. If your car is missing this strap, you should install one as it is essential for bright lights etc. The negative cable is grounded to the engine block and the engine block is grounded to the firewall. The body is bolted/welded to the frame, so the frame should already be grounded. It will not hurt anything to run another strap, but unless there are rust issues with you car, you probably do not need any more grounds. You can take your multimeter set to resistance and put one probe on the frame and one probe on the body. You should not get an open reading as that would indicate a lack of a ground. Otherwise, you should be good to go.
Pretty sure the speedo cable getting fried from the lack of a ground is a myth.

Dave

 

[Rosco]

Ha!! Just something else for me to worry about happening when I've got a thousand other things still to install and get running.
I definitely do NOT have any other ground coming from the battery to the fender. Just the cable going to the driver side head. Should this split off of the main battery ground cable? Same gauge as the engine cable? What was the reasoning for grounding the radiator support- frame in front of car not necessarily grounded well to the rest of the body?

 

[Davea Lux]

Ha!! Just something else for me to worry about happening when I've got a thousand other things still to install and get running.
I definitely do NOT have any other ground coming from the battery to the fender. Just the cable going to the driver side head. Should this split off of the main battery ground cable? Same gauge as the engine cable? What was the reasoning for grounding the radiator support- frame in front of car not necessarily grounded well to the rest of the body?

Usually it was split off the negative cable head where it mounts to the battery post, you might want to check the wiring diagram to be sure they still used that ground for '77, I am sure they used that system in '76. The purpose of the fender ground was to supply additional grounding to the core support and the lighting mounted there. The core support and fenders are bolted on so as the cars aged, sometimes rust negated the ground provided by the mount bolts.

Dave

 

[Rosco]

Usually it was split off the negative cable head where it mounts to the battery post, you might want to check the wiring diagram to be sure they still used that ground for '77, I am sure they used that system in '76. The purpose of the fender ground was to supply additional grounding to the core support and the lighting mounted there. The core support and fenders are bolted on so as the cars aged, sometimes rust negated the ground provided by the mount bolts.

Dave

Hey Dave,
I have a '68 Fury. Do you think it would be beneficial to add a fender ground? Or radiator mount?

 

[livininharrow]

just do it.

 

[Davea Lux]

Hey Dave,
I have a '68 Fury. Do you think it would be beneficial to add a fender ground? Or radiator mount?

Either should work.

Dave

 

[Rosco]

I will add one to one of the radiator mounting bolts. It looks like a 10 AWG wire will suffice. Gonna replace my 52 year old block to firewall strap as well with a new braided type.
Thanks again, Dave, for your prompt input.
I appreciate all you guys. I have yet begun to thrash with reviving my disassembled Fury and will surely need some guidance at that time.