1966 Chrysler Radiator Replacement Options??

PlymouthFury

PlymouthFury

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Looking for a drop in or easily modified radiator to fit my car! I had been looking at aluminum radiators but no luck. I don’t have an original to recore and not going to attempt to reuse this crappy one in the car. Plus, nobody does radiators anywhere close to here anymore. Don’t want to spend $1000 on a radiator either! Yes I’ve searched through this forum but haven’t found a solution unless I’ve missed it.

I have a Chrysler Town & Country with a 440 and A/C. The car has a newer aftermarket brass radiator that is total junk. The radiator top tank came loose on a trip and I soldered it back in a parking lot. Slowly but surely the radiator is just kinda coming apart. The mounting brackets came loose which I had to solder back (in another parking lot) and then the bottom tank started leaking.

I’m guessing it’s an autozone type and the quality is obviously subpar. Looks like it may be the same as the one offered by Summit. No markings on the radiator that I can find. But it does fit perfectly! Seems nobody else can get it right…

I’m looking for a replacement radiator that will actually fit! I don’t know how 1966 compares to 1965 and back and 1967 and up or between Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth or A/C and non A/C but it seems anything offered does not actually fit my particular car.

Cold Case radiator (MOP757A) brackets won’t allow it to mount on my radiator support and won’t fit my fan shroud going off the measurements they provided me. Cold Case does “not do custom application” as I asked if I could just have the brackets welded on without any cuts or holes drilled so I could modify it myself to work.

What cars do these actually fit? I found several threads on these radiators being made “exact” to MoPars. 66-70 as listed by them obviously isn’t correct for all cars… The fan shroud mounting is a 4 inch difference in width! Mine is 25-1/4” stud to stud and they gave me a measurement of 21-1/4” hole to hole. I might could possibly make it work but I don’t want to drop $500 on a maybe. The mounting holes are all totally different with exception of maybe the top ones. But the top holes are drilled too close together by 1/2 inch. I don’t know if there is enough meat on the precut and drilled brackets to modify it to work?

The 26” ECP radiators (someone else recommended on another thread) are too narrow to work. Their fan shroud brackets won’t fit my Chrysler part #2579011 plastic shroud either.

I see other aluminum radiators listed for a ‘66 Chrysler but do they actually fit? It’s hard getting measurements of brackets and such from these vendors.

Below is the measurements of my radiator and fan shroud mounting brackets. The measurements are center to center on the holes and fan shroud studs.

Anyone got a solution? Anyone modified any radiators out there to work?

IMG_8745.jpeg
 
It would be helpful to know where you are located.

I am not a fan of aluminum radiators. Our C Bodies require the use of old style green coolant as the long life coolants are not compatible with the brass heater cores and will cause them to leak. The green coolant, after a few years will actually attack an aluminum radiator so you have to change the coolant every couple of years.

Glen Ray Radiators can build you a new one, but they are expensive. They will also rebuild an original radiator. My opinion is to find a used correct replacement radiator for your car and have it redone. I know that radiators through at least 1968 will work if they are from a C Body. Perhaps Murray Park in Tiffin OH has a good used radiator available. If you go this route, consider spending a little more for a 3 or 4 row narrow fin core to give you better cooling. Based on your diagram, it looks like you have the 26" radiator. Chrysler also used a 22" radiator in some C Body applications in the 1960's. Good luck.
 
I’m located in Hickory, NC. Not too far from you. The radiator shops have all closed down and the few I’ve used within a few hours drive have not been good experiences. Hence the desire to find something I can drop in. Looks ain’t a big deal as this is a driver and I take it on long trips. I want something that’s going to last and do its job.
 
PlymouthFury said:
I’m located in Hickory, NC. Not too far from you. The radiator shops have all closed down and the few I’ve used within a few hours drive have not been good experiences. Hence the desire to find something I can drop in. Looks ain’t a big deal as this is a driver and I take it on long trips. I want something that’s going to last and do its job.
Click to expand...
There is a good and reasonable priced shop near me in Denver, NC. I can check this weekend to see if I have a good core for you.
 
FURYGT said:
There is a good and reasonable priced shop near me in Denver, NC. I can check this weekend to see if I have a good core for you.
Click to expand...
I had some recent issues with that shop which cost me a lot of time and money with work that was subpar. So I’ve decided to not use them any more.
 
As to interchanges, you are probably looking for a "332" industry designation radiator. Which is a 26" wide radiator. 1966 still had the round top, but '67 to '70 (possibly later, too) had the later square-top versions. Same width, same mounts, same everything.

Use the catalogs at www.rockauto.com to verify the "332" number and what over mode years it will bit. Plus to look at possible prices. Also check the auto supply chains' websites for similar information and pricing.

As you experienced, the main failure point of copper radiators is the SOLDER joints. Locally, we used to have to get a re-do every couple of years on our '66 Newport w/factory ac. Then I took it to a place we used at work, in another city, and they obviously used a better solder or had a better cleaning solution and their radiators lasted "as new, OEM". SO, don't condemn the radiator because the vendor used a non-OEM-grade solder. I used to buy exact-fit 3-dore Modines for my cars and they lasted as if they came from the OEM. No OEM-style marking or stampings, though, but they fit correctly.

You ALSO realize that normal ethylene glycol coolant has an additive in it to keep the ethylene glycol from degrading the solder in the joints??? The later Dexcool and other colors of non-green coolants were designed for systems with no solder joints in the radiators or heater cores.

Personally, I don't care for full-aluminum radiators. Aluminum cores are fine, but not a whole heli-arc welded assembly from aluminum. Why? When they become clogged in later years (which they certainly will), then they become a big drink can effectively, to be recycled not rebuilt. Although I also perceive the $1K prices for full copper radiators to be extremely exorbitant. Especially when the new Modines I used to buy were just over $200.00 (a slight bit more than a re-core, 40 yrs ago).

Radiator shops are fewer and farer between these days, but they still exist. Look for the older ones which also service the HD truck repair shops, which now do gas tanks and DPF filter refurbs. Higher volume and usually lower prices. Most of them also have sources for new radiators at a good price. Forget Summit and similar, with their "will fit with modifications"/universal fit orientations.

CBODY67
 
I mean I’ll kinda condemn the radiator if all it does is spring leaks or blow apart. Also the coolant isn’t touching the mounting brackets so for the brackets to come loose is a bit ridiculous. I’ve never had a radiator do what this one is doing and it’s not very old. This radiator was obviously put together very cheaply and isn’t holding up. But I actually drive my cars and they don’t sit in the garage so maybe they are fine for trailer queens and such.

I’ve perused all the radiator options from parts houses:

Rockauto only offers aluminum.

IMG_8747.jpeg


Autozone and Advance are brass/copper and expensive.

IMG_8748.jpeg


Summit is the cheapest OEM style available. Though not sure if it’s the same or if it will fit. But visually it looks the same.

IMG_8750.jpeg
 
PlymouthFury said:
I mean I’ll kinda condemn the radiator if all it does is spring leaks or blow apart. Also the coolant isn’t touching the mounting brackets so for the brackets to come loose is a bit ridiculous. I’ve never had a radiator do what this one is doing and it’s not very old. This radiator was obviously put together very cheaply and isn’t holding up. But I actually drive my cars and they don’t sit in the garage so maybe they are fine for trailer queens and such.

I’ve perused all the radiator options from parts houses:

Rockauto only offers aluminum.

View attachment 677148

Autozone and Advance are brass/copper and expensive.

View attachment 677149

Summit is the cheapest OEM style available. Though not sure if it’s the same or if it will fit. But visually it looks the same.

View attachment 677150
Click to expand...
Have you looked at Radiator Express yet ?
 
Remember, Summit is only a re-seller and does not make the radiators they sell. In some cases, many people tend to give them more credit than they deserve in some areas. Their "hook" is generallg good pricing. Might be the same radiator from AZ in a different box? Considering how many companies still make radiators!

Nobody wants a "trailer queen" to leak fluid on an expensive floor.

Some people seem to have different luck with the same company and employee contacts. Some good, some otherwise. I probably "over shop" potential places to do business, though, BEFORE I spend my money there.

CBODY67
 
PlymouthFury said:
I mean I’ll kinda condemn the radiator if all it does is spring leaks or blow apart. Also the coolant isn’t touching the mounting brackets so for the brackets to come loose is a bit ridiculous. I’ve never had a radiator do what this one is doing and it’s not very old. This radiator was obviously put together very cheaply and isn’t holding up. But I actually drive my cars and they don’t sit in the garage so maybe they are fine for trailer queens and such.

I’ve perused all the radiator options from parts houses:

Rockauto only offers aluminum.

View attachment 677148

Autozone and Advance are brass/copper and expensive.

View attachment 677149

Summit is the cheapest OEM style available. Though not sure if it’s the same or if it will fit. But visually it looks the same.

View attachment 677150
Click to expand...
The Liland Global is a local place that does not have a good rep. Basically it was a radiator shop that was bought by a Chinese guy that has ties to factories in China. They built their business on cheap replacements for used cars that only had to last a year or so. The used car dealers love them...

I have a Spectrum replacement radiator in my '70 300 that works fine.
 
CBODY67 said:
Nobody wants a "trailer queen" to leak fluid on an expensive floor.
Click to expand...

They don’t worry about it cause the car never gets driven long enough to make it through some heat cycles and leak.

Any radiator that needs repair after a year is junk. That’s unacceptable… I don’t care what coolant you put in it or the type of solder they use.
 
Big_John said:
The Liland Global is a local place that does not have a good rep. Basically it was a radiator shop that was bought by a Chinese guy that has ties to factories in China. They built their business on cheap replacements for used cars that only had to last a year or so. The used car dealers love them...

I have a Spectrum replacement radiator in my '70 300 that works fine.
Click to expand...

The summit radiator visually appears to have different tanks than the autozone/advance radiators at least going off the photos. I would be curious as to who makes them. Whoever made the one in my car currently doesn’t know how to solder.
 
PlymouthFury said:
I’m located in Hickory, NC. Not too far from you. The radiator shops have all closed down and the few I’ve used within a few hours drive have not been good experiences. Hence the desire to find something I can drop in. Looks ain’t a big deal as this is a driver and I take it on long trips. I want something that’s going to last and do its job.
Click to expand...

Have you looked at U.S. Radiator? I'm happy with their product, and I made my own shroud bracket to bolt the 1965 22" shroud to their radiator using 2"x 2" x 1/16" angle aluminum. My bracket brings the shroud closer to the radiator than the heavy stamped steel Mopar made for bolting to the sides of the 2524984 radiator it came on. Easy enough! I realize your situation differs a bit from mine but....
 
Gerald Morris said:
Have you looked at U.S. Radiator? I'm happy with their product, and I made my own shroud bracket to bolt the 1965 22" shroud to their radiator using 2"x 2" x 1/16" angle aluminum. My bracket brings the shroud closer to the radiator than the heavy stamped steel Mopar made for bolting to the sides of the 2524984 radiator it came on. Easy enough! I realize your situation differs a bit from mine but....
Click to expand...

I will look into it. Looking at all options available to try and get this radiator situation remedied.
 
MoPar~Man said:
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I know nothing about that place or that rad, other than it would probably fit - but the inlet / outlet ports are on the wrong side. Same as this one:

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Here's one with the ports on the right sides:

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I think they're all aluminum. Does anyone make copper rads?
Click to expand...

Yes, US Radiator! Here's a link to something which might do our OP nicely:

Chrysler Newport, 1966-69 V8 361/383/426/440 Radiator - US Radiator

I'm VERY happy with the 22" 4 row one I copped off eBay. I likely will drop the mech fan after the Equinox, cruising through the Cool Season here in southern AZ w just this rad and my electric pusher. I think these folks can fashion a very good 26" for you. You MIGHT even consider hiring them to re-core your old one. I might someday do so, if flush in $$.
 
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