1966 Fury III - Unfinished Project

I found a brighter silver paint, even has a fair bit of reflection to it.
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I'll wait for that to dry, it's very slow- then do the detail work on it.
Between times I dug the flooded speedometer out of the storage.
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It's a little worse for wear, having been submerged in rainwater for several weeks. The mechanism is rusted solid.
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Still, it cleaned up nicely. The surround is cracked and the plastic lens is crazed. The inside edge of the bezel needs to be painted pale gray, it's a little bit too shiny.
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The PCB cleaned up though, and the lights work. Neat design that the light shines through the odometer hole to illuminate the gear position indicator.


Phil
Source of brighter silver paint?
 
Source of brighter silver paint?
O'Reilly Auto Parts. Dupli-Color Chrome finish.
Doesn't say for plastics on the can- I have a feeling it'll make some plastics go soft.
It is far from a chrome finish, even on polished metal (tried it) but it is the shiniest of all the "metallic" paints I have bought off-the-shelf.
I know there are some mirrored finish paints but this is close.
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This stuff ^

Phil
 
I bought a cheap red lens at the auto parts store with intent on cutting it up to make repairs to the center two red lenses.
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The plastics have done the usual thing and dismantled themselves, so I chopped up a couple of pieces and put them in.
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Imperfect, yes.
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Ok from 20 feet and not going to let the water in? Yes.


Phil
 
I'm not sure this light switch is much more good.
It makes clunking and pinging noises, has no detents and the knob will not pull out.

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Time to get the drill warmed up.

Phil
 
Nope.
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That's half of the bimetallic circuit breaker arm welded to a piece that I'm not sure where it should go.
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Either way, that's beyond economic repair, new switch time.

Phil
 
RockAuto may have the switch you need. Enjoying your journey. . .
A brief search shows this switch was common to a lot of Mopar vehicles from the mid sixties through to about 1981.
It's available new for not too much money, which is nice.

I'll see about getting one ordered. No real rush right now though. I need MIG wire more than a headlight switch.
 
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Pulled the wiper switch out of the dash.
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It's the variable speed version, cleaned the chrome up and checked the function. It appears to be in working order.

Edit: Correct me if I'm wrong, because I don't have a wiper motor in the car (don't ask, someone removed it) is the behavior of the wipers similar to that of older vacuum systems? i.e. when switched on, the swept arc is only part of the full travel and the wipers stop before they get to the bottom of the screen; only when switched off do they return to the parked position, snugged down tight against the screen surround?
 
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Let me guess... Vacuum valve for the heater and aircon system - common failure point?
They do fail. I replaced the one in Shamu, my 69 Fury III vert.
They are rebuildable, but care must be taken.

Here’s a link for the unit that I bought:

OER 3895790: AC/Heater Control Switch 1960-1974 Mopar A/B/E-Body - JEGS High Performance

The other items that are troublesome are the vacuum operated actuators that are driven by the mode control switch.
 
They do fail. I replaced the one in Shamu, my 69 Fury III vert.
They are rebuildable, but care must be taken.

Here’s a link for the unit that I bought:

OER 3895790: AC/Heater Control Switch 1960-1974 Mopar A/B/E-Body - JEGS High Performance

The other items that are troublesome are the vacuum operated actuators that are driven by the mode control switch.
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The selector boards are smashed to heck because the clutch switch overheated and melted; that caused everything to get out of alignment.
Didn't realize Jegs have them, that's a lot cheaper than the ones I found on eBay! I can pull the heater box and test the actuators, that's straightforward.
Thank you for that link!

Phil
 
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Fought with pullers and eventually got the steering wheel off.

Naturally, the turn signal switch is broken. I sense a recurring theme with this car.

I need to look in the manual to see how the column and switch come out. Feels like there's a clamp holding the turn signal wire in place.
 
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Fought with pullers and eventually got the steering wheel off.

Naturally, the turn signal switch is broken. I sense a recurring theme with this car.

I need to look in the manual to see how the column and switch come out. Feels like there's a clamp holding the turn signal wire in place.
While I haven’t pulled a turn signal switch on a 66, on Shamu, my 69 Fury III vert, I had to de-pin the connector at the base of the steering column. The FSM will aide you, if nothing else, the schematic will.
 
Oddly the manual doesn't have an exploded diagram of the column, just a few random images showing how to remove the steering shaft circlip, amongst a few other actions.
There's a moderate amount of slack- I pulled the speedometer out and that gives better visibility to the wires.
Digging in the dash is going to be fun, there's mud daubers making a nest in the defrost tubes.

Phil
 
Turns out if you pull hard enough, anything comes apart.
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Selector plate is loose. Next investigation point there.
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The plate fork is worn away, that'll need building back up with a bit of weld and grinding back to shape.
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Cleaned up ok in the end.

Phil
 
Started on pulling the engine apart today.
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That's pretty nasty. Wasp nest in the oil gallery is a nice touch

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All four rear cylinders are bad. Oh well.
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Genuine Cuban rebuild (wire brush).
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Started on the valves. I'm just going to clean that up, lap the valves in and reassemble. Good enough to get it running.

Phil
 
Couldn't find my valve spring compressor.
Bought a new tool at AutoZone which is more work but still works.
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I'll clean that all up another night. It's too hot now.

Phil
 
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