1966 Polara 880: The Build So Far, or "Bring Money".

[TroyCo]

The time has finally come.

Waited the better part of six weeks for custom length pushrods. But, progress begins again. More to follow soon.

 

[TroyCo]

The engine is in.

BUT..... What has become a theme with this build, another setback. The stock flexplate originally on the 440 doesn't match the *not* stock torque converter. That got sold with the 400 originally in the car. A replacement has been ordered, and will be here Wednesday.

Instead of wasting a perfectly good afternoon in the garage, I decided to tackle a few cosmetic issues that have been bothering me. A while back, I found some replacement badges for the car, as well as some taillight/trunk trim.

Before:

After:

They aren't perfect, but what is on a 56 year old car? I prefer things to have a matching, although better, patina. More to come.

 

[TroyCo]

Trunk bezels (I think that's what they call them?) added.

Before:

After:

Picked these up with the badges I added. I thought I was content with the appearance of the car before, but these bezels really complete the look of the car, IMO. Same as the badges, I took the time to paint and polish them to bring back the shine to compliment the status of this 20-footer.

 

[LocuMob]

Trunk bezels (I think that's what they call them?) added.

Before:

View attachment 545266

After:

View attachment 545267

Picked these up with the badges I added. I thought I was content with the appearance of the car before, but these bezels really complete the look of the car, IMO. Same as the badges, I took the time to paint and polish them to bring back the shine to compliment the status of this 20-footer.

It looks so much better with those in place, completes the rear end.

 

[TroyCo]

It's ALIVE!

Sounds real strong. Need to break it in some more but initial break in went smoothly, other than a slight coolant leak from a heater hose. Now to tune the carb and to make sure the timing is dialed in just right.

 

[TroyCo]

UPDATE:

The Dodge is running strong. Tons of power. Been putting some miles on it this week, even took it to a show today.

 

[TxDon]

Great car, get rid of that green-knobbed shutoff on the battery, that is an accident waiting to happen.

 

[TroyCo]

Great car, get rid of that green-knobbed shutoff on the battery, that is an accident waiting to happen.

Thanks!

Regarding the shutoff, what would be a better alternative?

 

[LocuMob]

Thanks!

Regarding the shutoff, what would be a better alternative?

Disconnecting the battery. I always have a 1/2" wrench with me or the car.

Or get more cars, with few batteries, and keep moving one from car to car to car.

 

[TroyCo]

Disconnecting the battery. I always have a 1/2" wrench with me or the car.

Or get more cars, with few batteries, and keep moving one from car to car to car.

I was expecting something a little bit more creative.

Oh well. I guess K-I-S-S is probably the way to go.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

@LocuMob - why is that green-knobbed shut an accident waiting to happen?

I have confidently used those things for 25 years with no issues...

 

[LocuMob]

@LocuMob - why is that green-knobbed shut an accident waiting to happen?

I have confidently used those things for 25 years with no issues...

@TxDon said that, I just offered a low buck alternative.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Oops... @TxDon - I repeat the question then...

 

[TxDon]

Thanks!

Regarding the shutoff, what would be a better alternative?

A heavy duty switch like this Cole-Hersee. Mount it near the battery and use HD cables. If you can figure out a hidden location it can be a theft deterrant. These pics show my install on a 34 Packard but the idea is the same.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Looks like a nice install there Don - what though is the issue you have with the green knobbed ones that sit on the battery?

 

['66 Fury I]

My negative battery cable has been adjusted for "twist-on-twist-off" friction fit for years (maybe 20 or so) and seems, for me to be a reliable and fool-proof solution. Just my idea. Lindsay

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I'd do the same thing except that I like to keep my clock going and not have to adjust it each time, so I have a small wire that bridges the battery shutoff switch, and I have a small 3 amp inline fuse in it. That way when the cable is disconnected by turning the green knob, the clock keeps running, but if there's a short to ground (or I forget to turn the knob back to full connection when I start the car or turn on the headlights etc.), the fuse pops.

I'm still interested in why @TxDon feels that those green knobbed battery switches are an accident waiting to happen - I have respect for his judgement in these things, so I want to know.

 

[TxDon]

Looks like a nice install there Don - what though is the issue you have with the green knobbed ones that sit on the battery?

I have read many magazine articles and forum posts blaming them for short circuits and fires due to poor construction. I still used them until I had one start arcing and it fell apart, luckily I had it on the ground cable. From that point on I used the better switches mostly on my pre-war cars. Both of my current cars do not have any parasitic loss issues and I drive them regularly so I don't use disconnects.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Never heard of those issues with them...

To my knowledge they're only supposed to be installed on the negative battery post in conjunction with a negative ground ground electrical system. People are asking for trouble if they don't follow the instructions.

Over the years I have had a couple that got overly corroded, so I threw them away and replaced them with new ones, since they're quite affordable.

Thanks for filling me in on the potential for issues with these units.

 

[TxDon]

I'm still interested in why @TxDon feels that those green knobbed battery switches are an accident waiting to happen - I have respect for his judgement in these things, so I want to know.

By the way Ross, thanks for this and the same back at 'ya.