1967 Plymouth Fury III 318

[PH27L7]

Does anyone know where to find the smaller gaskets referenced in this video? Looks like they are for the bolt and may be overlooked.

In post 87 you show that you have the standard straight oil filter adapter. The one shown in the video is a 90 degree adapter that's used when the exhaust interferes with the filter.

The 90 degree gasket kit can be found in various places-
Mopar Chrysler P5249320 upgrade small block 90 degree oil filter adapter gaskets | eBay

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

Is this the picture you are referencing? Are you saying the gasket is found under the layer that is there?
View attachment 422183

OK your good it's off, that's a better picture than the enlargement I did, (plus my old eyes heh). Stuff like that can get lost oops 'misplaced' if the shop removes them.
Refer to the pasts manual picture I posted earlier for gasket(s) and placement, also check the canister & 90° adapter parts manual images...

 

[Furyus67]

OK your good it's off, that's a better picture than the enlargement I did, (plus my old eyes heh). Stuff like that can get lost oops 'misplaced' if the shop removes them.
Refer to the pasts manual picture I posted earlier for gasket(s) and placement, also check the canister & 90° adapter parts manual images...

Thanks. Hopefully its just that he forget to replace that gasket? Would make it an easier fix.

 

[Furyus67]

aaaYep there's a gasket under the plate, part number 10-26-27.

From the 1968 parts catalog 318 engine.

View attachment 422148

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Does anyone know the torque spec for 10-25-5, the oil filter adapter bolt? I can’t seem to find it in my 67 fsm

 

[RGORHAM29]

Hi Josh - just checked my 68 FSM - don’t see it here yet

 

[Furyus67]

Hi Josh - just checked my 68 FSM - don’t see it here yet

In my 67 FSM it looks like its listed for the /6 and the hemi at 30ft.lbs. but its not listed for the 318 and 383

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

I'd be careful on the torque of this nipple adapter, it is a hollow threaded adapter to hold on the oil filter that is only hand tightened (remember that)
I searched back into all the service manuals till 1956 for both Plymouth & Dodge and found no torque spec so when in doubt you have to rely on a good mechanic's intuition. Since it's a fairly large nut but a hollow adapter don't go hog wild with a 1/2" Rachet but use a 3/8" short handle rachet and snug it down with a fair nudge for final tightening. Also since there is no lockwasher involved Locktite the threads with whatever color you are comfortable with. Me? I use only the red as I have found the blue insufficient in most all of my applications, but use the red sparingly as with most bolts you only need 1 drop, more could be troublesome upon disassembly especially with aluminum. This adapter I would use about a line of red halfway around the threads as this would probably never come apart again in yours or my lifetime if done right. Remember you don't want this adapter to loosen (back out) when the supposed 'Hand Tightened' oil filter is removed.

ALSO IMPORTANT! for your leak problem, make sure the adapter plate isn't cupped or dished from previous installations. Put it on a flat steel plate or glass and check for cupping or dishing in the direction it is tightened down. You may have to whack it with a hammer a few times to bring back the flatness.

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

A quick googley googley turned up this video, same problem no torque spec found, red gasket goo is good, but I have serious issues with anyone that works in a shop in flip flops... 1/2" vs 3/8" rachet is up to you, how strong of hands have you got boy? Again check adapter plate for any distortion, It's not as flat as I remember.



.

 

[Furyus67]

I actually installed the Canton 22-575 filter plate and the gasket that comes with it. Torqued it to 30 lbs. good idea with the locktite

 

[Furyus67]

Installed the Lokar throttle cable and kickdown cable today. I like the look of it. Pretty easy to install.

This weekend I picked up some new rims/tires (on the front). What is the correct terminology for these? Are they road wheels? Magnum wheels? They are the 14 inch version with trim rings.

The new rims already had 215/70/14 Cooper Cobra tires mounted with the white letters to the backside. I would like to put my thin white wall tires (215/75/14) on the new rims. I think the solid black wall is not the correct look. Also the tire is short and doesn't fill the wheel well.

 

[M1911]

Did the Sanderson Shorties end up working?

 

[RGORHAM29]

That’s a good photo. It’s amazing how rims and tires can quickly change the appearance of a car from grandpas car to a more youthful “furious” look. I personally don’t mind the magnums. The carb set up looks real clean from when you started too. Nice work.

 

[Furyus67]

Did the Sanderson Shorties end up working?

I have to move/bend the factory transmission dipstick tube to make them work. I think I might just order the Lokar flexible dipstick and mount it to the firewall. Just get it out the way completely.

 

[tallhair]

Installed the Lokar throttle cable and kickdown cable today. I like the look of it. Pretty easy to install.

View attachment 432217

This weekend I picked up some new rims/tires (on the front). What is the correct terminology for these? Are they road wheels? Magnum wheels? They are the 14 inch version with trim rings.

View attachment 432218 View attachment 432219 View attachment 432220


The new rims already had 215/70/14 Cooper Cobra tires mounted with the white letters to the backside. I would like to put my thin white wall tires (215/75/14) on the new rims. I think the solid black wall is not the correct look. Also the tire is short and doesn't fill the wheel well.

Correct term is road wheels.

Taller tire the better with those wheels.

 

[M1911]

I have to move/bend the factory transmission dipstick tube to make them work. I think I might just order the Lokar flexible dipstick and mount it to the firewall. Just get it out the way completely.

I know you need a shorter oil filter, but did you use a full size starter?

 

[Furyus67]

I know you need a shorter oil filter, but did you use a full size starter?

I will be using the Mopar Denso 340 360 Magnum Swap Hi Torque Mini Starter from Scram Speed. I never tried it with the original starter. I don't know if it would work or not.

 

[Furyus67]

Polling the people. Still have this slow drip. Fresh rebuild. Do I proceed with my first fire just to yank it later or do I take it back out now?

 

[saylor]

that drip looks like motor oil? where did it come from?

and +1 for your wheels and tires as they are now mixed up blackwall mags and whitewall hubcaps.

its perfect.


try not to die -

- saylor

 

[Furyus67]

that drip looks like motor oil? where did it come from?

and +1 for your wheels and tires as they are now mixed up blackwall mags and whitewall hubcaps.

its perfect.


try not to die -

- saylor

I don’t see oil or moisture anywhere else. Just right there at the rear seal I suppose.

 

[Furyus67]

I attempted to fire the 318 magnum for the first time on yesterday. Had a few setbacks. When I finally got around to starting it, it was dark. After it didn't start I didn't fool around too much to troubleshoot or make adjustments, but here's how it went.

I primed the oil pump first. The guy that rebuilt the engine said he primed it previously but that was about 8 months ago so I figured I needed to. I spun the crank by hand until it read TDC and the rotor was pointed toward the number #1 cylinder.

Then I removed the distributor.

I took a picture of how the oil pump drive gear was oriented prior to removal. I inserted the 5/16 hex rod and spun with the drill. I was reading just under 80 psi. I replaced the oil pump drive gear in the same orientation as it was prior to removal. Replaced the distributor with the rotor pointed in the same direction, towards #1 cylinder.

When I attempted to start the engine, I cranked it 4 times with no fire. On the 5th crank there was a LARGE backfire that sounded like a shotgun blast.

I think there may be one of two issues.
#1 I am using MSD wires and a flame thrower coil. The rubber boot on the coil wire does not go onto the flame thrower coil easily. It seems as though the outer housing is too thick for the rubber boot. So maybe the coil wire isn't' fully connecting and I'm not getting spark.
OR
#2 My rotor is off 180 degrees. In my quick research I have read that a large backfire can mean it is firing on the exhaust stroke rather than the compression stroke.

To fix the 180 degrees out issue, with the crank spun to TDC as done previously, would I lift up the distributor out to where the rotor spins freely, spin it 180 degrees and then drop the distributor back down?

BUT WAIT THERE's MORE.

I noticed my freeze plugs were leaking coolant. After the large backfire we started packing up for the night. As I'm cleaning all the tools up I checked under the car and saw a couple wet spots. Come to find out, my freeze plugs are leaking. Just a steady slow drip.

Can anyone tell if that plug is seated correctly? Why would they be leaking already!?! Is there a fix for this with the engine in the car. I don't particularly want to run stop leak in a freshly rebuilt engine.

Needless to say, it was a frustrating day. Any advice is appreciated.

If you'd like the watch the video of the backfire I uploaded it. Get a laugh out of my Dad jumping out of his shoes.



Here's a picture of what we're workin with.