M1911
New Member
Crazy all of the Header manufactures not one C Body bolt up...
1967 Plymouth Fury III 318
- Thread starter Furyus67
- Start date
James Romano
Well-Known Member
Not a big market for our style cars... They should wake up to it. These Grandpa Sleepers are becoming more and more popular
Furyus67
Active Member
Worked on the Fury (now named Nadine) this past Friday. Buttoned up the fuel pump lines and the gas tank lines.
Quick Question: does the electrical connection just press on the the fuel sending unit?
Bled the rear wheel cylinders - All good back there.
Attempted to bleed the front passenger wheel cylinder - Ran thru a lot of fluid trying to get the bubbles out. Ran out before I could keep bleeding. So basically I only got the rears done. I was using the motive products power brake bleeder
Frustrating moment of the day. I have been storing some parts in an outdoor storage shed. I have to keep everything at my parents home and I feel bad taking up all the inside space. No garage. For a year everything has remained dry. Well I checked this weekend and the inside was soaked. My carb looks like it has been wet for a while now (it was boxed and wrapped in the plastic packaging). Not sure what I want to do. I bought it from a guy who stated he had only used it briefly. It looked brand new. Now it looks like crap. Might just say heck with it and buy a Holley Street Avenger 570???? I don't know.
Quick Question: does the electrical connection just press on the the fuel sending unit?
Bled the rear wheel cylinders - All good back there.
Attempted to bleed the front passenger wheel cylinder - Ran thru a lot of fluid trying to get the bubbles out. Ran out before I could keep bleeding. So basically I only got the rears done. I was using the motive products power brake bleeder
Frustrating moment of the day. I have been storing some parts in an outdoor storage shed. I have to keep everything at my parents home and I feel bad taking up all the inside space. No garage. For a year everything has remained dry. Well I checked this weekend and the inside was soaked. My carb looks like it has been wet for a while now (it was boxed and wrapped in the plastic packaging). Not sure what I want to do. I bought it from a guy who stated he had only used it briefly. It looked brand new. Now it looks like crap. Might just say heck with it and buy a Holley Street Avenger 570???? I don't know.
Push the lead for the sensor on as far as it will go and it should be good, yours looks to not be on all the way. The carb is a mess. Try soaking it in a bucket of diesel, that should free it up and release some of the crud. It may have stuff on the inside too so figure on taking it apart for cleaning. A brass brush should remove the worst of the stuff on the outside after the soaking.
Dave
Dave
Furyus67
Active Member
Finished bleeding today. I guess I just needed more time on the passenger side front. All good now. Front driver side is done too.
Next step, wiring, carb and linkage. I got Crackedback (Rob Yule) over on FABO to wire up some relays for me. I’ll have the fuel pump, choke, and headlights on relays.
So close to running, yet so far. Haha.
Furyus67
Active Member
Well this project just came to a screeching halt. Looks like the pan or something is leaking. Ugh now I don’t know how I want to proceed. There is a slow small drip.
Furyus67
Active Member
I think if the oil is leaking from the filter or that large outer circle that’s how the oil ended up on the rear of the pan. I’ve had the front of the car jacked up pretty high today and is could have rain backwards. Pretty frustrating day. I’ve been buttoning this thing up and getting it ready to try starting for the first time and then I see this!
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Furyus67
Active Member
I took the oil filter off and it’s dry as a bone around the gasket and such. I don’t know where the leak is coming from. About to say F it and take this daggon thing out again.
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RGORHAM29
Active Member
Bummer.....this has been coming along so well. Frustrating for sure. I know you were working on the carbs too. Is it running yet? I figure before removing the engine that you try to run the motor to build up the oil pressure and can see where it may be leaking from. If it is not running...I also wonder if you are able to “prime” the engine using a drill to help build up pressure too. I think others in the forum can talk about how to do this technique. Definitely some YouTube videos to show how. Good luck man.
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
aaaYep there's a gasket under the plate, part number 10-26-27.
From the 1968 parts catalog 318 engine.
.
Furyus67
Active Member
I was making progress today. Put on the carb. Hooked up some of the linkage. Torqued some other bolts I hadn't torqued yet. Fooled with some wiring. I was making decent progress today and then I saw this leak...
The pump was primed using the drill method a couple months ago.
Furyus67
Active Member
Wow - Who knew. Didn't even know that came off. Now the next question...where does one find said gasket? I'll start googling.
Quirey Quality Design?
Detroit Muscle Tech?
It comes with the overhaul gasket set, check to be sure the new one is not still in the box. Not the first time a rebuilder forgot to change out the old one.
Dave
Furyus67
Active Member
Good call! If I don't find it, is it called an oil filter adapter gasket?
1967 PLYMOUTH FURY 5.2L 318cid V8 Oil Filter Adapter Gasket | RockAuto
Yes and the 318 engines all probably used the same one. The early poly 318 engines had a cartridge filter, most of these were later adapted to the later spin on filter using the Fram adapter kit. If all else fails, you could always use the gasket from a cartridge filter under the adapter plate. You might also want to check to be sure the adapter is tight on the block.
Dave
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Well I just had a quick spin through your photos and the picture of the block in the back of the pickup it looks like the adapter is off but the plate is still there.
When you send anything out to hot tank or to be machined remove everything that is not cast iron, this oil filter plate held on by the adapter should be taken off as nasty crud can be found there. Freeze plugs should be removed by you (easy) Oil passages, if it has a hex plug, remove all plugs as the hot tank shop most likely won't and if they do there maybe a added 'Prep' charge and you may not get your plugs back or you may get someone else's plugs. ie remove the cam bearings as hot tanking will ruin them... get my drift?
Hot tankers want a bare cast iron block, anything that needs to be removed is labor and shops run on labor, if they have to spend a hour removing crap that you could of done I would charge extra. Now if some shops don't remove everything... oh boy you got short changed.
AND when you get the block back you have to go over it with some engine cleaning brushes aka 'Rifle Brushes' as we would refer to them in the old days.
Several cans of carb/brake cleaner down the oil passages worked with the brushes and some compressed air and watch what comes out.
Inspect, Inspect, Inspect... look in the nook & cranny's, get a powerful flashlight, now-a-days you can use a fancy camera 'borescope', you want that block 'Hospital Clean'. When your done with that and your going to store it for assembly at a later date, oil it up with whatever favorite spray lube to prevent any rusting and bag it up! You will clean & inspect again before you assemble, it really doesn't take long if you know what you are doing and consider it 'Insurance'.
.
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Another picture geeez.
Did the factory use primer on the engine? noooooo..... Put it on the service invoice "NO PAINT".
Also I wonder how the paint will stick to the Chinesium plating on the oil pan.
(edit) oh and also about your parts store ie carb corrosion... Condensation is a *****!
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Furyus67
Active Member
You live you learn.Another picture geeez.
Did the factory use primer on the engine? noooooo..... Put it on the service invoice "NO PAINT".
Also I wonder how the paint will stick to the Chinesium plating on the oil pan.
(edit) oh and also about your parts store ie carb corrosion... Condensation is a *****!
.
Furyus67
Active Member
Is this the picture you are referencing? Are you saying the gasket is found under the layer that is there?
Furyus67
Active Member
Does anyone know where to find the smaller gaskets referenced in this video? Looks like they are for the bolt and may be overlooked.
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