1968 LeBaron

[detmatt]

You're going to love the power vent windows.

Murray B. Park at the website below is who I would call for the missing turn signals.
www.cbodies.com

 

[Hemitheus]

You're going to love the power vent windows.

Murray B. Park at the website below is who I would call for the missing turn signals.
www.cbodies.com

Once I rebuild them. all 6 windows have sluggish motors. (Clutch I presume) But since they are out I will also rebuild the motors.

Ive also never driven an Imperial. I cannot wait for the famous 'feel'

Thanks for the lead.

 

[detmatt]

I would say your sluggish windows have more to do with the regulators needing a cleaning and fresh grease.

 

[bajajoaquin]

I would say your sluggish windows have more to do with the regulators needing a cleaning and fresh grease.

Could you elaborate? When I took apart a window, the regulator stayed attached to the spring mechanism, and there wasn't a good way to clean and regrease anything. I'm guessing that I'm missing something.

 

[detmatt]

Clean and grease all of the roller, guides and tracks.

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

With WHITE LITHIUM GREASE if theirz any doubt. It takez FO-EVAH to dry it out like you find it!

 

[Hemitheus]

I figure I only want to take the door panels off once. May as well do it all. Clutch, motor, regulator

 

[detmatt]

Oh you'll be in there more than once, I can almost garauntee it!

 

[Hemitheus]

Oh you'll be in there more than once, I can almost garauntee it!

Hey, No jinxing.

 

[Carmine]

Could you elaborate? When I took apart a window, the regulator stayed attached to the spring mechanism, and there wasn't a good way to clean and regrease anything. I'm guessing that I'm missing something.

All of the tracks, rollers and slides were greased at the factory and after 40-60 years, that grease turns to cement-like glue. I've used lacquer thinner, carb cleaner, gasoline and even a torch to remove it (torch when removed from car, and not immediately after gasoline ) Lithium grease or some anti-seize compounds to re-lube. Poor electrical connections (connectors) are also the enemy of fast windows.

 

[Hemitheus]

I have noticed that nobody sells brakes for this car. NOBODY. What the????????

 

[detmatt]

You will find that brakes are not going to be the only thing specific to these vehicles that the aftermarket doesn't service.

 

[bajajoaquin]

Rotors are available, although expensive. I think I've mentioned the vendor on my thread. It's also available on the Imperial Club site, but you'd have to look for it.

Calipers are rebuildable, and pads are available. To get new rotors, rebuilt calipers and new pads will probably cost about $650.

 

[Hemitheus]

This is madness. I can caliper, brake, rotor job my Scamp for 36 pesos

 

[Hemitheus]

This CANT be right.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...71_3428&rpl=1&categoryRedirect=03351&pt=03351

 

[Carmine]

This CANT be right.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...71_3428&rpl=1&categoryRedirect=03351&pt=03351

I'm pretty familiar with scare Imperial brake parts. I've never heard people complain about the availability of pads, the issue is usually calipers and rotors. The good news is, you can always pull the pads and compare them in the store. If they aren't the same, you can have the pads re-lined at a place that does clutches and truck brakes (of which there are many in our great industrial center).

Someone on the Imperial Mailing List got pretty far along using calipers from a Toyota truck, but gave up when they realized all the Toiletota fittings were metric. There is also a company that rebuilds the original calipers using stainless parts. Not cheap, but a final solution.

Do you know you have a brake issue, or just being proactive?

 

[Hemitheus]

Just being proactive.

 

[commando1]

You have to be with these cars. It is what separates us from the Chevy guys.

 

[Hemitheus]

With?

 

[detmatt]

He means you have to be proactive with these cars.