1968 plymouth fury III PX23G8D243539 project

Should be a PCV on the passenger VC, oil fill and vent to air cleaner deal on the driver's side.

I would run a larger air cleaner if I were you too. That tiny thing you have is better suited to a motorcycle, or lawn mower lol. A decent 14" x 3" air cleaner will have room for the vent to attach to the underside of the filter base too.

PCV should come into the back of the carb.
 
c-sick thanks for the comments. I don't intend to hook back to the aircleaner base - I was wondering if I can cap them off or connect them to each other etc. are you saying undo the pipe plug at back of carb and route both to there?

another edelbrock tip from your boy saylor:
the idle fuel/air mix screws
if you turn them all the way in and it doesn't kill the motor jet down 1 size.
if you turn em out past 3 turns then jet up a size.
you should get action in 3 turns or less -either direction - basically - or you are jetted wrong for your application.
 
I would run a PCV valve to manifold vacuum. On the other valve cover you can just run a combination breather/oil fill. If you don't provide a way to eliminate crankcase pressure you'll end up with oil leaks at every seal.
 
so edelbrock tech says dont do what im doing and instead switch carbs that the venturi are different in the elec choke version... bah hell all for an electric choke that i will use like 2 days out of a year.

that does not deter me i will continue onwards :)
 
stardate 20190929.1352.420

celebratory moment. drove around the block in this bad boy first time its moved since 4th of july weekend.
changed edelbrock rods to 73/47 from 75/47 and to pink / 7# springs from stock orange #5 springs.
changed out break in oil for valv9olene high zinc.
was able to goof with the A/F and timing and idle and all that.
after a good long while it finally started staying above 200 so i shut it off.

i realized while i was driving that it runs OK but there is more there to be had. i may take it to a shop and let them dial it in now that it will make it down the road again. get it hooked up to a machine and fine tune it and all that.
im gonna put a can of water wetter in the rad and drive this puppy for a while.
 
all in all i didnt do too bad for a white boy, if i say so myself. its a lot of freaking work changing out a motor + transmission. in the driveway. with hand tools. in the summertime. in texas.
 
post build notes:
make a list of every step / every thing you unhook when pulling out the old motor.
take pictures. more. pictures. still.
hook up everything you unhooked in step 1. cross it off the list once its done, but keep it so you can read it dont scribble it out.
no skimping - like only hooking up 1 fan not both, or leaving the driveshaft unhooked, or the P/S pump off. put it all back. all.of.it.
check fluids. oil/water/gas/transmission/power steering. dont forget to fill them. recheck. again.
when pulling the transmission - let off the torsion bars all the way BEFORE undoing the transmission crossmember.
if you are on the ground, chock BOTH wheels, on BOTH sides. the car moves around like private dancer when you are hoisting a motor in and out. put jackstands everywhere.
dont put in antifreeze yet if you are just busting off the motor for the first run. run a garden hose into the rad and straight water until broken in. save the $50 you spent on antifreeze from going on the ground.
tighten the crap out of the radiator hose connections - its gonna leak if you dont.
start it just long enough to spin everything up and get some pressures and then kill it. check for leaks. fuel/water/oil/transmission. before you go for it.
thermostat should have an air bleeder valve hole in it. if it doesnt, put one.
read your plugs.
electronic distributor + orange box is worth the swap.
scribe the hood hinges before you remove the hood. dont just mark the bolt holes only, mark where the hood sits on the bracket too.
hot antifreeze is really damn hot.
check for leaks. again.
 
so with the cold front that came thru i got to cheat and run my car longer than usual with this current heat issue. i wired my fans to come on as soon as the car is running (connected to oil pressure kill switch (I) pin) instead of on/off at 170*/160* whatever the temp. switch is that i stuck in there.

i hooked up the electric choke (connected to oil pressure kill switch (P) pin) and set it to its least setting.
i took all teh throttle linkage and kickdown rods and shifter linkages loose then set it all by the FSM.

i got out on the side of 190 where us locals go to exersize and it did pretty decent.

in mid strong throttle is sounds like a bunch of marbles in there i think im knocking. is muh racetrac premium not good enough?
 
If it's pinging you'll need to retard the timing a little until it doesn't ping. Or buy race gas. Pinging is damage to your engine. It's not just making a noise you don't like.
 
It's kind of a moot point, if it's pinging you have too much advance. I would reset the timing to where it doesn't ping using whatever fuel you tend to always put in the car. We have 87, 89, and 91 everywhere here. 94 at a few select stations. My 383 is roughly 10:1 CR with iron 906 heads. I will probably set my timing where it runs best and doesn't ping on 91, because I know I can get that anywhere.

If you're heading to the track with it you can add some hi-test race fuel at the track and bump your timing a little. All comes down to how you use the car.
 
aight c-sick you were right, i think the vacuum advance was throwing too much advance. i capped it and retarded the base timing at the dist until i got no more ping at any point in throttle.

the vacuum advance 3/32 allen screw is all the way clockwise, on the summit distributor instructions i understand it to mean that its the least amount of advance. i have the vacuum capped off still, and drove around like that for a good while today.

however, my car still gets hot :/ boo sigh. next weekend i may put the stock rad and fan back on just to see if it changes anything.
 
its a cold case radiator with dual fans + shroud. i wired the fans to come on when the car comes on, but im thinking its not doing enough.
 
they are the cold case dual fans whatever they sell with their kit.

i still dont have it :/ even with it cooler outside i cant drive it too long.

so - the pulleys on this motor were all for A/C - and i removed the A/C compressor. has anyone done an A/C delete? how did you deal with all the belt routing with no A/C pulley?
 
today i wired in 2x 10ga. wires from ALT to BATT+. Fused on BOTH ends of EACH wire. per slantsixdan instruction.. waiting on 50A fuses from blamazon now the local shop didnt have any...
 
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