1969 Imperial progress thread

[70bigblockdodge]

You mean the third pic up from the bottom, that shows the left-hand side? It's hanging down about halfway along the block? What's a tethering cable? Designed to keep the engine from torquing over under load?

Provides a fail safe for the engine mount, so you don't have a dent in your hood from the carb stud like my Challenger does.


Jullian if you are going to put hardend seats in I would also switch to one piece valves just for reliability not completely necessary, is not a bad idea plus you will pick up some low lift flow by losing the lip at the seat area. Taking the lip off of the stock intake and exhaust is a good idea for low lift flow improvement and I usually just take it off with a bench grinder. You do not need to do any of this just putting it out there.

 

[tallhair]

I love to learn these things about my engine! I just want a nice cruiser, I'll let them as they are, but will add hardened seats!

Wise choice

 

[commando1]

Are there typically any marks when the block is bores already?

Bone stock pistons usually had a small notch to identify which way the pistons faced. Not always.
Sometimes when an engine is bored, the new pistons are stamped how much oversized they are. Example: 030 would be .030" oversized. Not always.
Guranteed method?
Bore gauges:

But it's a moot point anyway. You HAVE to bring the block to a machine shop regardless.
He'll measure it.

 

[vdk2010]

Jep, there are notches on the pistons! Good sign!

 

[commando1]

Nice. With a little bit of luck, you might just be able to get away with a hone and reuse all your stock components.

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[70bigblockdodge]

The cylinders don't look that bad from here no ridge it looks like.

 

[Big_John]

The problem with 440 bores is the area just below the ring ridge wears fast. The combustion pressure on the big diameter ring pushes out and wears the cylinder out. The rest of the cylinder may clean up real nice, but that spot won't.

I figure that any 440 with lots of street miles will need to be bored.

If you can, find a shop that uses head plates when they hone the block. The head bolts really distort the cylinder when they are torqued. I know that might be impossible where you are, but it's the way to go if you can.

 

[vdk2010]

I'll bring it to a machine shop anyway, but according to the wear tracks of the car, the ~40k miles on the odo could be the real milage, and then there shouldn't be bad ring ridges, I guess.

 

[vdk2010]

More likely the one stamped on the mounting flange.


Alan

Which one should tell me the exact date?


2946437


4589S


330 8

 

[patrick66]

2946437 is the Chrysler part number, so you have the original pump!

4589S is the manufacturer part number (Carter).

330 8 is the build date for your fuel pump. That's the 330th day of 1968 (November 26, 1968).

Your fender tag indicates a build date for the car of December 10, 1968 (C10). Things line up well for this to be the original pump.

 

[vdk2010]

I used the good weather last week and took a few days off of work to clean the seats to let them dry in the sun.

3 runs with my Tornator Black and they came out quite awesome. Next step is to pull the seat apart to derust and repaint the frame and springs and to renew the upholstery material underneath the covers because they stink as hell.

 

[vdk2010]

2946437 is the Chrysler part number, so you have the original pump!

4589S is the manufacturer part number (Carter).

330 8 is the build date for your fuel pump. That's the 330th day of 1968 (November 26, 1968).

Your fender tag indicates a build date for the car of December 10, 1968 (C10). Things line up well for this to be the original pump.

Thanks Patrick, now I have to chekc how to clean and "rebuild" it. It's pressed with no screws, so not much possibility to rebuild it...

 

[detmatt]

You'll definitely need to buy a new fuel pump when the time comes to put the engine back together.
I wish you would have tried cleaning one of your seats without your new machine to see how clean you could have gotten it without it. They look fantastic!!!

 

[vdk2010]

Good that we have clarified that it is the original fuel pump when I'm supposed to throw it away anyway ;)
But you're maybe right about that!

The front seats are still dirty, so I can try it without to see the defference, but I'll never get the hard to reach spots that clean without the Tornador!

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Wow the seats look good truly a diamond in the rough.

 

[commando1]

Frankly I'm flabbergasted at how those seats came out

 

[patrick66]

The seats came out great! I looked up the Tornador cleaner, that looks like something I might have to get for my shop. My Imperial seats are in great shape, but this looks like it'll make them look like-new. Very impressive!

I neglected to mention in my post with the numbers that the Carter pump is not rebuildable, as been stated earlier. It's a shame, but you'd probably not want to run a pump that has remained dormant as long as yours has, anyway.

http://www.autogeek.net/tornador-black.html

 

[cm23uoc]

Are the seatfaces genuine leather now or were they already replaced with Vinyl ?; sides and the armrest are Vinyl right from the factory anyways.

 

[vdk2010]

I was also stunned how great the seats came out after treating them3 times with the Tornador! I can warmly recommend this awesome tool! Same with my dashboard..!

I couldn't figure out if its genuine leather or just leatherette... But I will see it when I take the seats apart.

 

[vdk2010]

Does anyone have good experiance with repairing leatherette? The bottom part of the backseat has some superficial rips.