1969 Imperial progress thread

[ceebuddy]

No. But the description doesn't sound too promising: "Low cost, economy grade, hand formed reproduction lower quarter panel [...] The quarter panel requires extra work for installation including body work, advanced sheet metal skills and more time to finish."
Taking into account the price plus shipping cost and customs you might as well consider having a skilled body man in Germany hammer a replacement from stock flat sheetmetal.

 

[commando1]

Those are the fenders we've all been railing against since FCBO got off the ground.
You haven't been paying attention, Vodka. For shame !! LOL.
Simply put: THEY ARE 100% PURE GARBAGE!

 

[vdk2010]

I got my puller today so I could finally finish the disassembly of the engine.



The rubber is still good on the balancer


I screwed up with the pullerbolts... But it's repairable I think.



Of course I hadn't a Multi-Point Socket for the real main seal and needed 3 turns to the toolstore to get the right one. Ans weh I finally got the right one, the bolthead was round... So I had to punch a smaller regular socket onto the bolt...


Now, everything is stripped and ready to go to a machine shop. But I'm still searching for a good one.



All cylinders are looking really good, except this one. I hope it's still not neccessery to bore.




And finally, I destroyed the Oil Pressure Sending Unit by trying to remove it.

 

[vdk2010]

I pulled the zylinders today. After a little soft left and right pushing the crank, all zylinders were free and the engine cranked over... 6 of 8 Zylinders came out pretty easy but 2 are stuck on the second ring. Maybe I can remove them to the inner side of the engine?!

All parts have a "D" stamped in, even the connecting rod bearing... they show some uneven wear...


According to a list I found, the "D" stands for "1968", right?

Year Codes for B & RB Engines
A - 1965
B - 1966
C - 1967
D - 1968
E - 1969
F - 1970
G - 1971
H - 1972
J - 1973
P - 1960
R - 1961
S - 1962
T - 1963
V - 1964
4T - 1974
5T - 1975
6T - 1976
7T - 1977
8T - 1978

Interesting. I didn't know the engine internals were date coded.

I think we're all going to be fascinated as well as educated when you get to post those pictures. I still learn something new every day.

Hold the comments about being a slow learner.......

I made pictures today, but I'm not sure anymore if these "D"s are datecodes...


The main bearings have an "e" stamped it, what would mean 1969. But the thrust bearing does have a real date stamped in, which says "10 68".


Nice side fact, one of the bearings still shows the old manufacturer information on it. These CLEVITE 77 are still available.

 

[vdk2010]

Everything's coming together pretty good.

 

[vdk2010]

No. But the description doesn't sound too promising: "Low cost, economy grade, hand formed reproduction lower quarter panel [...] The quarter panel requires extra work for installation including body work, advanced sheet metal skills and more time to finish."
Taking into account the price plus shipping cost and customs you might as well consider having a skilled body man in Germany hammer a replacement from stock flat sheetmetal.

That's probably true. Especially because I don't need the whole quarter panel, just lower end of it...

I talked to a guy from the netherlands today, which I met at the nationals. He had an accident, where a granny that fell to sleep while driving banged into the left side of his 4-door '69. He had to replace the complete side from front to back and used these ebay fenders and was pretty happy with them. hmmm...

 

[vdk2010]

Those are the fenders we've all been railing against since FCBO got off the ground.
You haven't been paying attention, Vodka. For shame !! LOL.
Simply put: THEY ARE 100% PURE GARBAGE!

I've not! But I was silently hoping someone is saying something good about them... :icon_hang:

 

[vdk2010]

I also finished taking out the complete HVAC today.
And again, I found a HUGE rodent toilet inside.............

The inner part of the box broke when I removed the rusted screws... To repair and restore the HVAC is a good winterproject I think, but here are a few pics:









Here's good to see how deep they dipped the car in the rust protection bath.

 

[commando1]

Stay the course, Vodka. I couldn't tackle a job like this. At any age.
And I understand how those rear main seal cap bolts can drive you nuts.

Posted via Topify on Android

 

[kmccabe56]

Oil pressure sending units require their own unique socket. I'm sure they're still made. I've had mine for 30 years.

 

[kmccabe56]

I made pictures today, but I'm not sure anymore if these "D"s are datecodes...
View attachment 36529View attachment 36530

The main bearings have an "e" stamped it, what would mean 1969. But the thrust bearing does have a real date stamped in, which says "10 68".
View attachment 36532View attachment 36531

Nice side fact, one of the bearings still shows the old manufacturer information on it. These CLEVITE 77 are still available.
View attachment 36533

I think those markings on the rod bearings may be sizes. Chrysler wasn't proud nor were they shy about proclaiming to the world that they built engines with undersize rod and/or main journals. When they did so, they needed oversize bearings to maintain the proper clearances. Those marks may also indicate the production line within the plant that made the bearings. The date identification is obviously when the bearings were made, but all of the other information may just be manufacturer related. Notice the flat on the side of the conn rod bolt. It's important when you reassemble the rods that the edges of the flat are absolutely parallel to the sidewall of the spotface on the rod. If the corner of that flat touches the edge of the spotface, you'll hasten the demise of the rod significantly.

 

[kmccabe56]

Everything's coming together pretty good.



View attachment 36534

Interesting how the "Y", the "9" the "8" and especially the "6" are fainter than the other characters. An indication of how worn some of those stamps can get and still be used. It must have been time consuming to change that stamp for every vehicle that came down the line.

Anybody ever seen a discrepancy in the stamped in identification versus the car's actual VIN?

 

[patrick66]

Years ago, I had a '69 Coronet R/T 440 4-bbl car for a short time. The number on the trans rail matched the VIN, but the engine VIN stamping was ONE number off - 123456 versus 123457. I bought the car from the original owner in 1988, and he had never had the engine out of the car. I thought that was an oddity back then - just a number off in the sequence.

 

[ceebuddy]

And finally, I destroyed the Oil Pressure Sending Unit by trying to remove it.
View attachment 36528

Just thinking, since the Imperial has both an idiot light and a gauge for oil pressure, shouldn't there be somtheing like a "Y"- or "T"-connector to accomodate both an oil pressure switch and a sending unit? Looking somewhat like this:

 

[vdk2010]

Just thinking, since the Imperial has both an idiot light and a gauge for oil pressure, shouldn't there be somtheing like a "Y"- or "T"-connector to accomodate both an oil pressure switch and a sending unit? Looking somewhat like this:

They are next to each other on the block!



But just one was plucked in and I coundn't find the other cable... I hope to locate it when I overwork the wiring harness.

 

[vdk2010]

There is a special tool for everything... -_-

This one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-1-1-16-3-...1413295347&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

 

[obelix]

i used that fenders it is not great but you can use them whit a bit of work,,you can also use a part of it

 

[commando1]

Extremely nice work.

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[bulldogchesty]

Nice avatar obelix.

 

[bajajoaquin]

There is a special tool for everything... -_-

This one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-1-1-16-3-...1413295347&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

So is there something special about that socket other than the size? If I have a 1-1/16" socket will it work, or do you need that special tool?