1969 Imperial progress thread

65sporty · Jun 27, 2015

vdk2010 said:
I tried to remove the rear window today. But I had a few problems.

All the screw heads of the lower screws on the fiberglass frame are too rusty to unscrew them... I don't have access to the screws from the underside to cut them and I won't damage the fiber glass with a drill...
Any ideas?
View attachment 55007

I don't know how to remove the center trim piece... This one is tricky! Does anyone know how to remove it?
View attachment 55008

If you use a drill bit that is the same size as the screw you can just drill the head off and remove your part then use vice grips on the rest of the screw

vdk2010 · Jun 28, 2015

Big_John said:
Yes, I did my 300 with a Spal kit. http://www.spal.com/spal_accessories/eng/products/door_locking.html

It was an easy install. I even used the factory bolt holes in the door. The hardest part was getting the new wire through the existing harness, but that wasn't a real big deal.

When I was researching doing this myself, the Spal name keep coming up as the product to buy and the other ting was to not buy anything from Autoloc.

I then hooked the door locks into a keyless entry alarm system. An 80's vintage electric trunk lock is hooked up too so I can use the key fob to open the door locks or the trunk.

But... If you want, I have a set of door lock relays I took out of a derbied Imperial that I can part with.

Can you get at the underside of the bolts enough to get a pair of vise grips on and loosen them from underneath?

If I have all the parts I need, I will use the original parts, but I will also check the modern solution for additional benefits!

I will get this relays as well. Looks like the one I need for the door locks! Is this the one you have?

vdk2010 · Jun 28, 2015

65sporty said:
If you use a drill bit that is the same size as the screw you can just drill the head off and remove your part then use vice grips on the rest of the screw

I though about that but the drill will damage the fiber glass pretty easy and I don't want that!

Big_John · Jun 28, 2015

vdk2010 said:
If I have all the parts I need, I will use the original parts, but I will also check the modern solution for additional benefits!

I will get this relays as well. Looks like the one I need for the door locks! Is this the one you have?

View attachment 55078

Yep, that's what I have.

vdk2010 · Jun 28, 2015

Ok, thanks! I already have it then!

Big_John · Jun 28, 2015

You'll need the linkage and the Imperial had switches in the arm rest. The linkage can be made and you will have to source some arm rest switches. There's also some sort of switch on the key lock. I've never seen one so I have no idea what that even looks like. That will be hard to come by.

The Spal unit solves a lot of problems and I'm quite happy with mine. You can lock/unlock both doors by either the key lock or the lock knobs. I can also use my fob. Both locks work together and there's no external switches. Unlock the passenger door and the driver door unlocks etc.

Keeping it original is nice though. If you want the relays just let me know.

ceebuddy · Jun 28, 2015

With two doors, I say, power locks are nice but one could live without them.

Marian: The center crome trim pice on the lower rear edge of the vinyl top should be held in place by screws accessible from underneath the sheetmetal. There must be some access holes, at least that's how they were originally installed (when nothing was rusted out).

vdk2010 · Jun 29, 2015

Big_John said:
You'll need the linkage and the Imperial had switches in the arm rest. The linkage can be made and you will have to source some arm rest switches. There's also some sort of switch on the key lock. I've never seen one so I have no idea what that even looks like. That will be hard to come by.

The Spal unit solves a lot of problems and I'm quite happy with mine. You can lock/unlock both doors by either the key lock or the lock knobs. I can also use my fob. Both locks work together and there's no external switches. Unlock the passenger door and the driver door unlocks etc.

Keeping it original is nice though. If you want the relays just let me know.

The linkage is attached to the solenoids, but the biggest challange would be to find the door switch panels and the door locks! Sounds like the better way is to use a modern system...
The Spal (or equal) system sounds like the way to go!

I will get the relays anyway with the solenoids, but thanks for offering me yours!

vdk2010 · Jun 29, 2015

ceebuddy said:
With two doors, I say, power locks are nice but one could live without them.

I will add them while I have everything apart. But I think I will use a modern system, rather than the originals.

ceebuddy said:
Marian: The center crome trim pice on the lower rear edge of the vinyl top should be held in place by screws accessible from underneath the sheetmetal. There must be some access holes, at least that's how they were originally installed (when nothing was rusted out).

Hm, that's interesting, because I checked that. But maybe not good enough... I will check that again!

I was sure there is another way, because this is what the start looks like:

goodneighbour · Jun 29, 2015

Hi Julian, I think someone in the past has screwed the dimple moulding clips up. IIRC those are suppose to be the same dimples that hold the side mouldings on with the plastic clips. The trim on my parts car is gone, I can get a pic for you tomorrow.That plated phillips head screw don`t belong under there.

vdk2010 · Jun 30, 2015

ceebuddy said:
With two doors, I say, power locks are nice but one could live without them.

Marian: The center crome trim pice on the lower rear edge of the vinyl top should be held in place by screws accessible from underneath the sheetmetal. There must be some access holes, at least that's how they were originally installed (when nothing was rusted out).

You, or Marian was right. There were nuts from the underside. Hard to see, but if you stick your head underneath the panel, you can see accessholes and the nuts. The phillips screw was one of the screws that holds the vinyl in place.

But I wish I had never removed it..!

MrMoparCHP · Jun 30, 2015

vdk2010 said:
But I wish I had never removed it..!
View attachment 55162

But glad you did.

Alan

vdk2010 · Jun 30, 2015

Sure. Nothing I wanted to find, but glad I did. Now I can fix it..!

vdk2010 · Jul 14, 2015

Small update. Still grinding off paint and rust. I'm using a combination of "cookies" and twisted wire wheels but I will have to sand blast some of the small corners and hard to reach spots...

I tried out the window removal toll today. Works flawless! Now I'm waiting for the trim removal tool to arrive.

Unfortunately, I found more rust... I need to replace both outer ends of the panel in front of the windshield. (That's it called?)
Does this panel interchange with other models? 70 Imperials and up or even Chrysler models?