For Sale 1969 Polara coupe (383-2, grey/black bench/black vinyl top, $12k)

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From my personal experience the smoothest idling Mopar engine I've ever dealt with is the 413. My mechanical abilities are somewhat limited but all 413's I've tuned up idled smooth as glass.
 
My 66 383-2 starts and runs smoother than my 440-4 every time. I actually like how it motivates the 66 better than my 440 on the 70.
 
The theory being that the Primaries are larger on the 2BBL than the 4BBL may have something to do with it I am not sure. Unfortunately our Canadian air is 30% less efficient than American air so that shouldn't be a factor....:poke:
:canada:
 
For what it is, this car is undervalued.

If Polaras were on my Radar, I would own this one.
 
I like the 69s. I don't love them but they are my 3rd favorite. It wouldn't still be available had I not had a plan.
 
I have owned and driven 383-2 equipped vehicles and 383-4 vehicles as well. My 1970 Chrysler Newport was my daily driver to work and back for probably 10 years and it was one of my smoothest, reliable vehicles ever, and the a/c remained ice cold throughout my ownership, and never overheated. It idled as smooth as glass, accelerated as smoothly as any other vehicle I have owned, and it was sluggish compared to the 383-4 bbl engines that I have owned. But being in California traffic didn't allow a lot of non-sluggish driving so it was a perfect car for me for that purpose.

I also had a 1970 Plymouth Sport Fury Brougham that had a factory 383-4 bbl engine in it. That one wasn't quite as smooth at idle as the Newport, but it wasn't bad either. My view of these choices is simple. The engine performance with either the 383-2 bbl engine or the 383-4 engine was probably much the same in terms of output, but the huge difference was in the torque converter in the two cars and the rear axle ratios. The 383-2 was a leisurely performing vehicle because it had a 2.76 axle ratio and the low stall converter tilted for a more fuel economy-oriented balance while the 383-4 came with the high stall converter that multiplied off the line torque excellently and combined with its 3.23 rear axle ratio, made the car an absolute joy to drive, plain and simple. I took that car out on weekends more than another because it was just a driver then (60K miles), but I loved driving it around the city and the mountains nearby. It was perhaps one of the most balanced packages I have ever experienced and even in some ways is prefereable around town to the 440-4 engines with the low stall converters used in the C bodies with either the 2.76 or 3.23 axle ratios. The 440s relied on very good torque, whereas the 383-4s relied on the torque converter and higher off the line RPMs for its excellent, torquey feel.

I believe the 383-2 bbl engines idled incrementally better than the 4 bbls only because the engine was spinning against a lower stall torque converter that absorbed more of the vibration better (they were larger with more fluid and mass and tighter) than the smaller high stall torque converters in the 383-4 engines.

I didn't find either one more tempermental than the other even in hot weather, although I did find perhaps the 2 bbl in my 1970 had slightly longer hot starts, but not really that significant.

While I am a purist most of the time, and also more of a Monaco guy than a Polara one, if I owned this one for sale, I would convert the 2 bbl correctly to a 4 bbl including the torque converter and rear axle ratio, and install a bucket seat interior. It is a car I would use more for enjoyment and more of a driver than my typical garage queens. But that is just me. I wouldn't restore it but leave it mostly original since it is so nice as is.

I also own a 1969 Monaco with the 383-4 bbl factory engine and it drives in the same nice way as the Sport Fury, but it isn't in as nice condition as the Sport Fury, so it will get a full restoration. The only thing I will change about the car is to put bucket seats in it instead of the vinyl bench seat, even though they look almost identical anyway. I think I have shown a photo before on this site of how it willl look in the end with this example (it has the bench seat in it and is a identical image of mine, but restored). Note the nice, clean front end without the garish chrome surround! :D

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I wanted to hit the red X only because of the front end opinion. So I thanked you for the long and thought out explanation. Then again, I'm on the fence on the nose. I like the chrome nose on this car, I guess because of the body color.
I couldn't bring myself to switch interiors, she's too original.
 
Always good to read some reports of car owners with experiences of multiple cars with certain powertrain Combos Dating even back to the days when they were new. Generally speaking there are too many opinions concerning performance, fuel consumption, cornering or breaking abilities that are based on experiences made with worn out cars.
 
I have owned and driven 383-2 equipped vehicles and 383-4 vehicles as well. My 1970 Chrysler Newport was my daily driver to work and back for probably 10 years and it was one of my smoothest, reliable vehicles ever, and the a/c remained ice cold throughout my ownership, and never overheated. It idled as smooth as glass, accelerated as smoothly as any other vehicle I have owned, and it was sluggish compared to the 383-4 bbl engines that I have owned. But being in California traffic didn't allow a lot of non-sluggish driving so it was a perfect car for me for that purpose.

I also had a 1970 Plymouth Sport Fury Brougham that had a factory 383-4 bbl engine in it. That one wasn't quite as smooth at idle as the Newport, but it wasn't bad either. My view of these choices is simple. The engine performance with either the 383-2 bbl engine or the 383-4 engine was probably much the same in terms of output, but the huge difference was in the torque converter in the two cars and the rear axle ratios. The 383-2 was a leisurely performing vehicle because it had a 2.76 axle ratio and the low stall converter tilted for a more fuel economy-oriented balance while the 383-4 came with the high stall converter that multiplied off the line torque excellently and combined with its 3.23 rear axle ratio, made the car an absolute joy to drive, plain and simple. I took that car out on weekends more than another because it was just a driver then (60K miles), but I loved driving it around the city and the mountains nearby. It was perhaps one of the most balanced packages I have ever experienced and even in some ways is prefereable around town to the 440-4 engines with the low stall converters used in the C bodies with either the 2.76 or 3.23 axle ratios. The 440s relied on very good torque, whereas the 383-4s relied on the torque converter and higher off the line RPMs for its excellent, torquey feel.

I believe the 383-2 bbl engines idled incrementally better than the 4 bbls only because the engine was spinning against a lower stall torque converter that absorbed more of the vibration better (they were larger with more fluid and mass and tighter) than the smaller high stall torque converters in the 383-4 engines.

I didn't find either one more tempermental than the other even in hot weather, although I did find perhaps the 2 bbl in my 1970 had slightly longer hot starts, but not really that significant.

While I am a purist most of the time, and also more of a Monaco guy than a Polara one, if I owned this one for sale, I would convert the 2 bbl correctly to a 4 bbl including the torque converter and rear axle ratio, and install a bucket seat interior. It is a car I would use more for enjoyment and more of a driver than my typical garage queens. But that is just me. I wouldn't restore it but leave it mostly original since it is so nice as is.

I also own a 1969 Monaco with the 383-4 bbl factory engine and it drives in the same nice way as the Sport Fury, but it isn't in as nice condition as the Sport Fury, so it will get a full restoration. The only thing I will change about the car is to put bucket seats in it instead of the vinyl bench seat, even though they look almost identical anyway. I think I have shown a photo before on this site of how it willl look in the end with this example (it has the bench seat in it and is a identical image of mine, but restored). Note the nice, clean front end without the garish chrome surround! :D

View attachment 217044

Thanks for the good read and information. How does one go about finding the correct torque converter to suit your engine and rear gear ratios? I've often got the "one size fits all" attitude from transmission shops and parts houses when I was doing research about a replacement transmission a couple years ago. Are there specific part numbers based on year, make, model, and engine?
When I ordered my tranny from Keith the 727 specialist, he also ordered my converter. It was a rebuilt unit from Recon and didn't have any p/n stamped on it or the box from what i recall. It's hard to tell what you're getting because they all look the same.
 
Its a dealer, so nothing unusual. His price doesn't mean anything.
The car pics were taken at a car cruise in Latrobe pa 2 weeks ago, I'm not a dealer, the reason the price is the price , I didn't really want to sell, but had to get some cash , now I don't need the cash , the car sold ,to a German buyer. But no money yet, if he dosent pay I will put it away for the winter, I also have a 69 500 , so thanks to those who make judgment on car, it is all original, except quarter ext, pass side.
 
The car pics were taken at a car cruise in Latrobe pa 2 weeks ago, I'm not a dealer, the reason the price is the price , I didn't really want to sell, but had to get some cash , now I don't need the cash , the car sold ,to a German buyer. But no money yet, if he dosent pay I will put it away for the winter, I also have a 69 500 , so thanks to those who make judgment on car, it is all original, except quarter ext, pass side.

Welcome, I selfishly hope the car doesn't go and I get to see it someday. I also hope I have a chance to pony up the 12 for it. I think it is worth it for the guy who's gonna keep it a long time.

PLEASE, post some photos of your 500 too.
 
That's the difference between getting emotional about a car and not. I never do. I stay practical as the car salesman found out this afternoon when he got grilled. So I don't see anything that rationally justifies his asking price. Cornering lights and signal repeaters are nothing special. My Mustang has them incredibly but doesn't change the value. My Park Lane has big block and cornering lights but still isn't worth that much despite the lights.
 
tbm3fan,if you grilled me I didn't get burnt, not eaven warm, this is why most of us true mopar guys don't comment on things we don't know about, I'm not a salesman, I am a self employed hvac contractor, so make up what you think but if you want the facts just ask, don't make assumptions about people or cars , this is why a lot of us don't get on forums, a friend of mine called and told me about the post , that's why I'm posting, for the rest of you guys sorry about the rant.
 
I have owned and driven 383-2 equipped vehicles and 383-4 vehicles as well. My 1970 Chrysler Newport was my daily driver to work and back for probably 10 years and it was one of my smoothest, reliable vehicles ever, and the a/c remained ice cold throughout my ownership, and never overheated. It idled as smooth as glass, accelerated as smoothly as any other vehicle I have owned, and it was sluggish compared to the 383-4 bbl engines that I have owned. But being in California traffic didn't allow a lot of non-sluggish driving so it was a perfect car for me for that purpose.

I also had a 1970 Plymouth Sport Fury Brougham that had a factory 383-4 bbl engine in it. That one wasn't quite as smooth at idle as the Newport, but it wasn't bad either. My view of these choices is simple. The engine performance with either the 383-2 bbl engine or the 383-4 engine was probably much the same in terms of output, but the huge difference was in the torque converter in the two cars and the rear axle ratios. The 383-2 was a leisurely performing vehicle because it had a 2.76 axle ratio and the low stall converter tilted for a more fuel economy-oriented balance while the 383-4 came with the high stall converter that multiplied off the line torque excellently and combined with its 3.23 rear axle ratio, made the car an absolute joy to drive, plain and simple. I took that car out on weekends more than another because it was just a driver then (60K miles), but I loved driving it around the city and the mountains nearby. It was perhaps one of the most balanced packages I have ever experienced and even in some ways is prefereable around town to the 440-4 engines with the low stall converters used in the C bodies with either the 2.76 or 3.23 axle ratios. The 440s relied on very good torque, whereas the 383-4s relied on the torque converter and higher off the line RPMs for its excellent, torquey feel.

I believe the 383-2 bbl engines idled incrementally better than the 4 bbls only because the engine was spinning against a lower stall torque converter that absorbed more of the vibration better (they were larger with more fluid and mass and tighter) than the smaller high stall torque converters in the 383-4 engines.

I didn't find either one more tempermental than the other even in hot weather, although I did find perhaps the 2 bbl in my 1970 had slightly longer hot starts, but not really that significant.

While I am a purist most of the time, and also more of a Monaco guy than a Polara one, if I owned this one for sale, I would convert the 2 bbl correctly to a 4 bbl including the torque converter and rear axle ratio, and install a bucket seat interior. It is a car I would use more for enjoyment and more of a driver than my typical garage queens. But that is just me. I wouldn't restore it but leave it mostly original since it is so nice as is.

I also own a 1969 Monaco with the 383-4 bbl factory engine and it drives in the same nice way as the Sport Fury, but it isn't in as nice condition as the Sport Fury, so it will get a full restoration. The only thing I will change about the car is to put bucket seats in it instead of the vinyl bench seat, even though they look almost identical anyway. I think I have shown a photo before on this site of how it willl look in the end with this example (it has the bench seat in it and is a identical image of mine, but restored). Note the nice, clean front end without the garish chrome surround! :D

View attachment 217044

I fully expect you to install a period correct looking bug catcher as well
 
Don't be, you were as honest as the day is long on the phone ....
It is the real deal of which they aren't making anymore of.
 
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