1970 B5 Sport Fury GT...Critters folly....back to basics

cpl more///
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hmmm...look worn...thoughts?
 
thankfully magnet couldn't pick up nada,,,all plastic..timeing gear and valve seals apparently..knew about timeing gear but the valve seal is new to me..anyway plastic thank gawd...heart just dropped when l first saw that ..once l threw magnet in there was relieved...
now where was l...oh ya..dirty…cant have that....
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almost there.....that oil pick up filter was completely full..nieghbour that l was nut shakein it like a rattle till l got every last piece out...
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beat oil pan back into a somewhat better shape..felt good
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motor mounts l'll reuse as their like new
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there we have it....
the end…….
 
when I did my full engine resto in 2017 this is what I found after draining the oilpan.
I suspect most of the plastic debris whas used to be sheating of the timingchain-gear
that they used back in the days... I don´t know who came up with such a stupid idea but obviously
the plastic didn´t last long when getting hot from the friction between gear and chain ...

How that screw ended up in there though remains a mystery

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when I did my full engine resto in 2017 this is what I found after draining the oilpan.
I suspect most of the plastic debris whas used to be sheating of the timingchain-gear
that they used back in the days... I don´t know who came up with such a stupid idea but obviously
the plastic didn´t last long when getting hot from the friction between gear and chain ...

How that screw ended up in there though remains a mystery

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You dropped a nut :poke:

The nylon coated sprockets were common to the big 3 US manufactures. They were a way to quiet the chain a little more. Replacement chains from the aftermarket didn't use the nylon, but by then warranties were long gone and the noise difference was minimal. This is why original chains or chains with 75k-100k should always be replaced. Metal replacements should too, they will wear/stretch and get sloppy with mileage as well. Short chains without tensioners have a limited lifespan, and it isn't worth finding the end of it.
 
thankfully magnet couldn't pick up nada,,,all plastic..timeing gear and valve seals apparently..knew about timeing gear but the valve seal is new to me..anyway plastic thank gawd...heart just dropped when l first saw that ..once l threw magnet in there was relieved...
now where was l...oh ya..dirty…cant have that....View attachment 296428 View attachment 296429 View attachment 296430 View attachment 296431 View attachment 296432 View attachment 296433 View attachment 296434 View attachment 296435 View attachment 296436 View attachment 296437

Remarkable job yer doing, Critter. Looking at the cylinder walls, it appears there is no ridge at the top. Is that true? Also, it appears that all your exhaust valves are burned and should be replaced. The intakes can probably be retained. I've never seen an engine with so much crap in the pan and oil pump pickup. I'll be following this thread. . .
 
knew about timeing gear but the valve seal is new to me

I've taken apart a lot of Mopar engines and found the same stuff. Probably more valve seals than gear pieces, but still a lot of plastic debris in the pan and pickup.

I've also seen the pickup clog and the suction tear the screen enough to start sucking oil (and junk) into the oil pump. Give it a good look... Some just replace it as a matter of course, but if the screen is intact, I would use it.
 
The pieces of black plastic are in fact hardened rubber valve stem seals. They go rock hard from the heat then break up. And yes some of those lifters are worn, time for a new cam and lifter package. Are you going to re-ring the engine? I suggest pulling off one of the main caps and checking the bearing surfaces, better to be safe than sorry. If you see any copper color at all even if they are smooth, time to replace both the main bearings and the big ends. Lastly, pull the oil pump down, check the running surfaces for wear and use a feeler gauge to check the clearances according to the Service Manual specs, or simply put a new pump in as insurance.
 
I heard about that but were they actually durable or did they all crumble after a while?[/QUOTE]They were decent it's just after all the miles and heat cycles the nylon gets brittle and starts to flake off. If you have a 100,000 your on borrowed time.
 
The pieces of black plastic are in fact hardened rubber valve stem seals. They go rock hard from the heat then break up. And yes some of those lifters are worn, time for a new cam and lifter package. Are you going to re-ring the engine? I suggest pulling off one of the main caps and checking the bearing surfaces, better to be safe than sorry. If you see any copper color at all even if they are smooth, time to replace both the main bearings and the big ends. Lastly, pull the oil pump down, check the running surfaces for wear and use a feeler gauge to check the clearances according to the Service Manual specs, or simply put a new pump in as insurance

gona replace lifters and cam for sure...even with the comeing pics engine seemed to run okay and idle..no knocks bangs or rattles..will try to find a film clip l had of it....realy don't wana be popin main caps ect if l can avoid it....Block had no ID nos on it except for the No 12 so expect its a warrantee block...timeing gear was plastic so am wondering if that's the orriginall timeing gear to block...anyway think l'll go with my gut on this one and pray...guessing lm gona have to check some more you tube how to vids...not clue 1 about main bearings
 
Remarkable job yer doing, Critter. Looking at the cylinder walls, it appears there is no ridge at the top. Is that true? Also, it appears that all your exhaust valves are burned and should be replaced. The intakes can probably be retained. I've never seen an engine with so much crap in the pan and oil pump pickup. I'll be following this thread. . .

rechecked the ridges and they barellly catch a nail..thought that was a oem feature but is wear l guess..
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...and the cam bearings...

was actually looking at that tonight on the block and wondering how theyd go about it...looks pretty basic realy..pop them out one at a time through cam entrance and remove then put them back in starting at the back and working forward with some sorta hamer tool ect..more vids to track down...something like this ld be more inclined to tackle as it basicly knock them out and replace..no boreing sizeing ect needed..close?
 
now for the main feature....
as most have said..plastic from timeing gear...
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quite the gap in that chain..any touque and she woulda skipped me thinks..this is why car was finally parked
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above my pay grade but looks worn and toast as dose the fuel pump rod with a V in it
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as Garry was mentioning the oil pump..was wondering what the tolerances were when l popped them out...will take closer pics tomorrow ...wasn't sure if ld get a feeler in there or not..anyone know the specs?...probally bin 10 years since l got to use one but still know here it is :elmer:
can just see daylight...anyone know the spec offhand..?
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and that's it for this evenin..thanx for the input all....rookie here...just don't send me to the poor house with all that advise..:wtf:

PS....is there a replaceable seal for crank in timeing cover?...haven't got it clean enough yet to tell...
 
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