1970 B5 Sport Fury GT...Critters folly....back to basics

[cantflip]

No it's not mine



I heard about that but were they actually durable or did they all crumble after a while?

I heard about that but were they actually durable or did they all crumble after a while?

They were decent it's just after all the miles and heat cycles the nylon gets brittle and starts to flake off. If you have a 100,000 your on borrowed time.[/QUOTE]
What Sporty said... they were always going to be a problem at high miles, but they are from an era when a 100k mile car was generally considered impressive mileage and worn out. The long chains in newer OHC engines require a tensioner, and some can make it through several hundreds of thousands of miles. All chains stretch and wear, the short ones without a tensioner, or any that has sharpened the sprocket teeth should be considered a maintenance item.

 

[Ripinator]

rechecked the ridges and they barellly catch a nail..thought that was a oem feature but is wear l guess..View attachment 296637



was actually looking at that tonight on the block and wondering how theyd go about it...looks pretty basic realy..pop them out one at a time through cam entrance and remove then put them back in starting at the back and working forward with some sorta hamer tool ect..more vids to track down...something like this ld be more inclined to tackle as it basicly knock them out and replace..no boreing sizeing ect needed..close?

Critter: Since you aren't doing a total engine rebuild, I wouldn't mess with the cam bearings. Cam bearings almost never wear to any significant amount. If you try to change them out, you may end up messing things up and be worse off than if you left them alone.

 

[Tobias74]

leave the cam bearings alone they are in good shape.

 

[CanCritter]

 

[Fury440]

With all the crud in the oil and probability rust etc in the water jacket, it might make sense to pull the crank and frost plugs and then tank the block. Pulling the crank and reinstalling it will work provided every part, bearing shells, caps and bolts are reinstalled exactly as they were removed. In any case you should replace the rear main seal and the frost plugs.

 

[Ripinator]

With all the crud in the oil and probability rust etc in the water jacket, it might make sense to pull the crank and frost plugs and then tank the block. Pulling the crank and reinstalling it will work provided every part, bearing shells, caps and bolts are reinstalled exactly as they were removed. In any case you should replace the rear main seal and the frost plugs.

I feel that once you go that far with dis-assembly, you are pretty much headed for a total rebuild: .030 over-bore, new pistons, bearings and perhaps (usually) a .010 regrind of the crank & mains. I'm just sayin. . .

 

[CanCritter]

above my paygrade...l do that may as well have it bored..new pistions ect ect ect…..before l know it lm 7k into a engine..bin there on cpl occasions ..simply cant afford it right now....engines goin in as is..
new timeing chain ..water pump..oil pump rebuild..basics.....start it up..throw some seafoam in there..run it good for a day then change oil and call it a day
if it lasts me 4-5 years will be happy …..if not will pull and rebuild when l can afford it...

 

[Tobias74]

The coolant was nice and green when we pulled the engine

 

[Ripinator]

above my paygrade...l do that may as well have it bored..new pistions ect ect ect…..before l know it lm 7k into a engine..bin there on cpl occasions ..simply cant afford it right now....engines goin in as is..
new timeing chain ..water pump..oil pump rebuild..basics.....start it up..throw some seafoam in there..run it good for a day then change oil and call it a day
if it lasts me 4-5 years will be happy …..if not will pull and rebuild when l can afford it...

I agree with you 100%; however, I would at least replace all the freeze plugs, since you are as far as you are right now. Its not hard to do and it isn't easy to mess up. And oh. . . You are gonna do the heads aren't you?

 

[CanCritter]

I agree with you 100%; however, I would at least replace all the freeze plugs, since you are as far as you are right now. Its not hard to do and it isn't easy to mess up. And oh. . . You are gonna do the heads aren't you?

cpl folks have mentioned frost plugs...they look fine to me and weren't leaking...am l missing something here? lm kinda on the boat if there not leaking leave them the hell alone...
Heads...don't belive l ve posted pics of them yet..old set yes..516s no...they will need to be cleaned up with new seals...will clean and polish valves...new to me...clean carbon offa combustion chambers and go from there....
l have the same faith in this engine that l had in my 70 318 Fury and it ran like a top never missin a beat...

…

theier both diamonds in the rough..both mistreated...all they need is some lovein and attention..lottsa heart left in this 440 lm bettin

 

[rags]

seems the slimiest engines are always the best.

 

[CanCritter]

have 1 chrome 1 black ....black or chrome nuts?

 

[300rag]

View attachment 298274 View attachment 298275
have 1 chrome 1 black ....black or chrome nuts?

Chrome.

 

[65sporty]

have 1 chrome 1 black ....black or chrome nuts?

I was thinking black, do you have any to set in there to give us a visual?

 

[commando1]

Neon lime green.

 

[300rag]

Neon lime green.

 

[Wollfen]

Neon lime green.

I will go one better, bright pink!!

 

[commando1]

View attachment 298431 View attachment 298431

C'mon, Peter, did you take me seriously?

 

[GJS]

Neon lime green.

Monster Energy Drink logo in the back window. Tuff.

 

[CanCritter]

just finished cleaning up the original 906s..cleaned carbon offa valves with a little light port matching and valve laping..reusing valves and springs and locks ,but am replacing valve seals and getting ready to put them back together and have cpl questions..new to 440s

A. is good chance this engine wont be started till spring and will sit over winter
...what is usual practice when replacing valves..just oil them up and slap them in?

B. new cam...again engine will sit over winter probably...what do l use on cam...will be turning engine over with drill to ensure proper oiling through heads ect then engine will sit for 5-6 mnths before l start it to break in cam..little concerned about pushing cam break in grease out before cams broken in...looking for proper way to go about this and what l should be using re break in lube and engine sitting...just don't wana screw up anything as l only have one chance at this..thanx