1970 B5 Sport Fury GT...Critters folly....back to basics

Also...in search for valve seals on 906 heads a col places said there are seals for intake and exhaust all be it their diffrent....?
Ones that came off look similar in size around 3/8ths...

Is this the case?two d iffrent sizes?
 
just finished cleaning up the original 906s..cleaned carbon offa valves with a little light port matching and valve laping..reusing valves and springs and locks ,but am replacing valve seals and getting ready to put them back together and have cpl questions..new to 440s

A. is good chance this engine wont be started till spring and will sit over winter
...what is usual practice when replacing valves..just oil them up and slap them in?

B. new cam...again engine will sit over winter probably...what do l use on cam...will be turning engine over with drill to ensure proper oiling through heads ect then engine will sit for 5-6 mnths before l start it to break in cam..little concerned about pushing cam break in grease out before cams broken in...looking for proper way to go about this and what l should be using re break in lube and engine sitting...just don't wana screw up anything as l only have one chance at this..thanx

A.) As I remember, you just oil the stems and put em back together if your guides are all good and clean. I think I used assembly lube on mine but everything was brand new on that build.

B.) I don't know that I'd be too concerned about pushing the cam break in lube out .. that stuff sticks around for a good amount of time. If you're just assembling it, testing the oil flow and packing it in till spring, just make sure you manually oil it again till the pressure comes up before you fire it. I think you aught to be fine.

it's been 20 yrs since I build one tho, TF I know?
 
The lube should be fine over the winter, just prime the oil as stated, before you fire it up.
 
A. is good chance this engine wont be started till spring and will sit over winter
...what is usual practice when replacing valves..just oil them up and slap them in?

That's pretty much it. I like to use something like a straight 40 weight, but really, valve guides don't get much (if any) oil while in use, so don't sweat it too much. Use whatever you are using for the rest of the engine.

B. new cam...again engine will sit over winter probably...what do l use on cam

Use something like the Crane Cam moly assembly lube. It won't run or drip off.

will be turning engine over with drill to ensure proper oiling through heads ect then engine will sit for 5-6 mnths before l start it to break in cam..little concerned about pushing cam break in grease out before cams broken in...looking for proper way to go about this and what l should be using re break in lube and engine sitting...just don't wana screw up anything as l only have one chance at this..thanx

By turning the engine over with a drill, I assume you mean turning the oil pump over with a drill to prime the pump and passages.

I had a discussion about this the other day with a friend that builds a lot of engines. He says one of the issues he's had is guys letting their engines sit around after he's built them when the car isn't ready. He's talking about starting to fog the engines with oil like boat guys do to keep the cylinders pristine. I'm helping a friend do a motor (his first) for his T/A and I don't know how long before the car leaves the painters. Since I've always fired the engines right away, this is a concern of mine. I've always just oiled the snot out of everything.
 
[QUOTE
By turning the engine over with a drill, I assume you mean turning the oil pump over with a drill to prime the pump and passages.

yes..just wana ensure l have oil flow..if not have the winter to sort it out...thinkin when l do start it will break in cam for 20 mins then do oil change and add some seafoam and run it for awhile to get any leftover crap ;and everything l missed or couldn't do then do one more oil change..run it 500 miles then do another oil change and run that one 3k before another change..will also add magnetic oil plug
Note....been playing around with magnetism this week trying to sort out a issue and found out that magnets ect will start to lose their magmatism around 170Celcius

quote
I had a discussion about this the other day with a friend that builds a lot of engines. He says one of the issues he's had is guys letting their engines sit around after he's built them when the car isn't ready. He's talking about starting to fog the engines with oil like boat guys do to keep the cylinders pristine. I'm helping a friend do a motor (his first) for his T/A and I don't know how long before the car leaves the painters. Since I've always fired the engines right away, this is a concern of mine. I've always just oiled the snot out of everything.[/QUOTE]

just gona oil the crap outa everything too :rolleyes:
 
back in the saddle again...has been a bumpy year for me to say the least....keeps me honest

now where was l....engine tear down..greasy ****...welp its almost at a end with completeion of the engine this week with just intake and valley pan to install along with lifters.....aside from timeing chain plastic takein a dive engine was in pretty good condition for the most part...no wear showing on push rods or rocker arms...everything in crank was pretty tight and figureing its a 70 warrentee engine would have low milage..
replaced cam & cam bearings...a first for me...and 2 sets of seals to pull it off :mad:..note of caution...dont by the cheap cam tool on amazon..thier cheap and calf easly...borrow or rent
Replaced valve seals and cleaned up valves and heads
Replaced oil pump...water pump ...timeing chain and gears...new intake...new timein case cover seal along with a new front tranny seal...am pretty well covered...
Hopefully l put it back together correctly and dosnt blow up...hell if it blows up at least it started....
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nothin like kickin back and contenplateing your work......amrealy likein how the valve covers turned out considerin they came with the Fury....seems to be a blue theme goin strong in this GT
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Plans are to get engine in in the next few days with Tobias's help and start buttoning up the engine bay in the next few weeks....then will have to sort out stearing colum,get dash in..sort out that then engine bay and see if l get all my sigs..heater fan lights ect before l put front clip back together...little luck in a cpl mnths or sooner should be able to get lights radio ect and get starter to turn engine over......all new **** to me :confused::realcrazy:
..and there we have it
 
no booze..docs orders...am in no position to argue :mad::stop:...
Damn that's rough! I guess my herd of doc's are better than I first thought, I'm allowed 1 beer a day! No whiskey, but that's Ok 'cause it's near impossible to stop at one.

BTW while you are in put-it-together mode, don't forget I have a complete set of '70 manuals that you can borrow, Maybe in an exchange I'll borrow the GT. :rofl:
 
comp cam flat tappet....pre soak before install or just coat oil and cam break in???
Thanx
 
I always pre-soak them (though some say it 's not necessary) but be sure you wipe them down with mineral spirits (right out of the box), per Comps instructions first.
 
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one of these filled halfway with the earl of yer choice; let em soak it up fer a day or 2. the more zinc, da better.

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welp Tobias sighned off on my work so engines ready to install..operation tommorow am...another step closer....
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Two key questions Critter...1st-did you disassemble the oil pump and clean it before you installed it? 2nd- did you confirm lifter rotation after assembly? Very important details that some skip to their ultimate sorrow.
 
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