For Sale 1970 chrysler 300 HURST edition - $3500

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bigrigpardo said he had build sheet showing "J99" - i don't know - not saying its not - if this is significant?

But the buildsheet may also have 'A12" on it, which IS significant, or at least persuasive evidence, that this car is a "real" Hurst...if this fact matters at all to any potential transaction for this particular car.

btw, you folks (before I joined) hashed that out here in this thread - what makes a Hurst "different" than any other '70 U code 300 other than its appearance?

Post #37 has a buildsheet example from a member's Hurst showing the "A12" but not the "J99". However Post #17 mentions the "J99" code and other indicators of Hurst cars:

http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar...Chrysler-300-Hurst-identification-help-please
 
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The way I see it:
True C-body guys have no interest in a 300 Hurst.
They are continually turned over from guys who saw a Hurst 442 sell for $75k at B-J.
 
I have been over the car and the build sheet with Karl Pippart of the 300 club. he seems to be the 300 hurst expert from what I hear. He told me the a12 is not a definite on a hurst but the sequence or shipping number on the production sheet saying j99 as the first 3 is definite proof of being a hurst as the j99 were the cars pulled to be done as the hurst. I am not a 300 hurst expert but he tells me this is so and everyone I spoke to told me he was the guy top talk to about these in this region. So who cares about a fender tag this is way better proof.
 
Fender tag is worth having. I would want it, make me feel better. Realistically, you still have a non complete half rolling car that needs a lot of parts, work and money. I'm with MrMoparCHP and the $1500 price. Only because it's a Hurst would I ever pay that much. Just my opinion.

And Stan, a Hurst 442 shell sold for 75k? Insane!
 
With the build sheet you can easily create a new fender tag.

This one goes either way for me. I have a numbers matching coupe that needs floors trunk, quarters, etc. This would make, what I think, a more interesting and complete car, and it's all bolt-on from the stub back. Total investment would be just over 6k. Would that be considered a worthy home? Yes, one "less" Hurst to count, but the point is, you don't need to spend lots of money trying to make a non-numbers matching Hurst, when it could save something else without cutting it up. You need the right buyer, I don't think your price is that far off.
 
OK, this nonsense is really, REALLY, starting to annoy me.
If I simply had a back seat to a 4 Spd hemi Cuda 'vert with the sheet still stuck in it, do I have a 4 spd hemi Cuda vert ?? F#$@ NO !!
If I stuck that seat in a "cuda" that was built from the ground up using every repro part know to man, is it a real 4 spd hemi Cuda vert. No.
What if that new Cuda had been fitted with a matching numbers drive train from a 4 spd hemi cuda. Is that a real 4 spd hemi Cuda vert because it has a matching numbers drivetrain and a back seat with a build sheet?
An ever bigger F$#@ NO !!
Come on people, that rickshaw is just a bunch of stuff from a 70 Chrysler.
 
Common sense.
A lost precious commodity in this country.
Everybody is "entitled" because of the PC myth that because they want something to fit their own vested needs, it should be construed as OK.
It is not...
 
commando1 said:
OK, this nonsense is really, REALLY, starting to annoy me.
If I simply had a back seat to a 4 Spd hemi Cuda 'vert with the sheet still stuck in it, do I have a 4 spd hemi Cuda vert ?? F#$@ NO !!
If I stuck that seat in a "cuda" that was built from the ground up using every repro part know to man, is it a real 4 spd hemi Cuda vert. No.
What if that new Cuda had been fitted with a matching numbers drive train from a 4 spd hemi cuda. Is that a real 4 spd hemi Cuda vert because it has a matching numbers drivetrain and a back seat with a build sheet?
An ever bigger F$#@ NO !!
Come on people, that rickshaw is just a bunch of stuff from a 70 Chrysler.
Click to expand...


Actually you are wrong,...the chassis/unibody structure of the car, IS the car.

In U.S. and international law the chassis IS THE CAR.

The VIN numbers are stamped into the body/chassis, they are still there,....I'm sure you know where to find them.

A "fender tag" is not a VIN stamping although it has the VIN on it, and is not required for documentation/proof of ownership.

Legally, and in all actuality, this car, albeit missing the dirve-train and front clip,.....is THE car.


You are of course still entitled to your opinion in a "PC myth" sort of way, if that's okay,....but it isn't.

hurst 300 rear clip.jpg
 
I'd tend to agree, minus the stub, doghouse, engine, trans, and most of the interior...maybe half a car. The thing is, it's gonna be of value (as opposed to valuable) to someone building a 300-Hurst, or wanting to build a quasi-clone.
 
I would love to have one of these and I don't mind a project but it needs to have its original engine/trans (and data tag).


Alan
 
Boy I hav to say you all have no lifes to be able to bash almost every thread on here. I was hoping to join and get real info from true mopar people, but it seems the real people with the love for the cars themselves have died and a bunch of thread smashing old fogies have taken there place. its a sad world. the car is what it is and I will find a buyer who will love it and build it into something awesome who gives a flying f$%^ about the engine and trans. get a hurt hood and drop a hemi 4 speed in it. if it isn't going to be all original were you have to have every nut and bolt correct than have some fun build it the way you want and drive it. I went through all the **** of getting the title in my name so someone could build it without worry of the tired old no papers game. I will tell you one thing my car will ave one thing that most of yours don't and that's a good rot free foundation. go ahead and drive your tired old c-bodies with no trunks and what not. every car has its flaws and will cost more than its worth to get it perfect, but if you can do it yourself on your own time than it wont.
 
If you are talking to me, I don't believe I am bashing your project. If this were MY car project, I'd be looking for a straight 300 coupe with a solid front clip and stub frame, along with a nice, serviceable interior. I have a built, zero-mile '69 440 and a fresh 727 along with all of the attachments, so that wouldn't be an issue. Build a "what-if?" 300-Hurst, but in black and gold with red accents, with a red interior. Use the fiberglass hood that someone was selling here a few weeks ago. Build to suit. In the end, it would be a $12K - $15K car that cost $25K to build, but it would be MY car.

So, no, I'm not bashing at all, just looking at the car in a realistic light. If you see my comments as bashing, then that's your opinion.
 
I'm not bashing you or this car, just to me missing the original eng/trans is a big deal. Even still this project doesn't pencil out, there are better subjects that would be cheaper to restore and still be number matching.


Alan
 
This is a great place to come for info on c bodies, lots of very knowledgeable people with tons of experience. They have also seen way too many Hurst cars being sold for way too much money, so maybe they are a little jaded by past experiences. As Patrick 66 said, just looking at your situation in a realistic light. I love the 70 Hurst 300's, but I personally think it's not worth what you are asking. People have offered sound advice with info to back it up to help you. And yes, some have ripped you. If you feel your price is fair, what the hell do you care what someone else thinks? Either you are trying to make a certain number for profit, or you are trying to get what you paid for this shell, that's my take, and I shouldn't matter to you.

Not all of us are old fogies. There are a holes in every age group!
 
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