1970 Fury III.......The next chapter

[70bigblockdodge]

I'm excited. Let's get it in there. I'm ready to take a ride.

 

[Fratzog]

Nice to see a plan start to come together.

 

[73 T&C]

Out of the fat and into the fire.... best of luck Nick. Rooting for you!

 

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

Okay, so I've had this one on the back burner and have been collecting stuff for it....

I've got a 69 383 road runner A833 trans, 70 big block bell, I stopped in and got my trunk lid off Dave after nearly two years of it in the corner of his shop, thanks to Manny I have a good rear valance, thanks to Wyatt I have NOS 440 hood emblems, and thanks to Nigel I brought home a set of GT fenders this week and a 26" rad saddle.

Not shown but I did located a 440HP crank and balancer and a set of rods, as well as a 1970 intake and valve covers.

Also a bonus picture of the Faux GT and my Jamaica Blue Sport Fury.

 

[live4theking]

Oh boy another fun one to watch.

 

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

So here's what I've collected thus far...

Late 69 440 block
70 440 dated intake
70 date coded HP manifolds
70 date coded waterpump housing
69 440 crank
70-74ish 440 balancer
73 440 LY rods
70 Dual snorkel air cleaner
187 oil pan

70 A833 B/E B/RB bellhousing
69 B body A833 trans
68-70 B body Hurst competition shifter and rods
Hurst shifter mounting plate
Clutch Fork..

My wish list is;

Sport Fury door panels
Sport Fury rocker panel moldings

I'm debating some things on the car, as much as I like doing OE stuff, this car is my play thing, I've been debating whether to sleeve the block and rebuild it to OE 440HP U code specs, but..... I've been reading a lot of Mopar mags lately and I'm starting to desire to build Atleast one big bad machine, I'm throwing around the idea of stroking that 440 and maybe doing 4 wheel disc...

Oh, I bought NOS 440 hood emblems off @71Polara383 a while ago when I was at his place, I chopped up the GT fenders to get the cornering lamp sections to graft into my relatively decent 70 fenders I kept from my green 70....and this weekend my patients paid off, I got an oil pan for the 440 for $25, got a balancer for it for $20, got the fork, mounting plate and shifter assy for $125. I'll have to buy a correct bench seat shifter, but that's okay as I think I want to go with a pistol grip... Oh and I stopped at Dave's shop on my way home and picked up my drivers side manifold that I traded Dave a spare pass side HP manifold for.

As for rolling stock, I've thrown around Atleast 4 ideas for sets of rubber...

I have 15x7 Roadwheels
I have 15x8 Ram charger steels
I have 15x8 Motorwheel Spyders
Or keep it on its current cop rims...

 

[Davea Lux]

Note that your balancer is for a T-Code internally balanced engine. That balancer is fine for that application. Check the casting number on the crank as the forged steel HP cranks are externally balanced and will use a different balancer. That was a good buy on the pan. The 440 HP pan has a baffle at the bottom, the T-Code pan does not.

Dave

 

[commando1]

You're gonna have to pick up the pace, Nick.
I'm 70 and I need to pilot that car before my left knee gives out...

FWIW, a 500/500 (the de facto standard for a stroked 440) engine would be perfect.
Just no effing bling, though.

 

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

You're gonna have to pick up the pace, Nick.
I'm 70 and I need to pilot that car before my left knee gives out...

FWIW, a 500/500 (the de facto standard for a stroked 440) engine would be perfect.
Just no effing bling, though.

My plan is of course to keep it iron headed, I have a set of Aero prepped 452 heads, they've been worked and would be perfect for a big cube 440.

The exterior of the motor I want to look like a bone stock 70 U code 440, now I know what you're thinking, you couldn't get a U code in a 70 Sport Fury, including the GT, well guess what, you couldn't get a 4 speed either, so if I'm doing a what if, I might as well go waist deep.

I've always played with my engines but kept them stock appearing. It's one of my favorite things

I've been thinking the 500 is the way to go.

And I forgot to add to the list I've also collected correct 70 valve covers and brackets also.

Nick

 

[LocuMob]

Nice work, Nick, as usual. I'm glad I saw this before it got to 20 pages!

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Stick with your LY rods. Those 6 pack/HP rods are heavy.

 

[Davea Lux]

Stick with your LY rods. Those 6 pack/HP rods are heavy.

You also can not run those rods (6BBL) on an internally balanced engine. There are a number of after market rods that are the same weight as the LY rods with the bigger rod bolts and higher tensile steel that are a good deal stronger. Helps keep the low end mass down and puts less strain on the rod and main bearings.

Dave

 

[commando1]

When you get to the cam thingy, remember that this is now a manual barge and you need low end grunt.

 

[cbarge]

When you get to the cam thingy, remember that this is now a manual barge and you need low end grunt.

You can always put in the truck bull low first gear in the gearbox!!LOL!!

 

[65sporty]

You have been busy sourcing parts.

 

[thrashingcows]

I vote for the cop car rims with stainless "Plymouth Division" poverty caps.

 

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

I vote for the cop car rims with stainless "Plymouth Division" poverty caps.

Funny enough, that's exactly what I currently have on it.

 

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

When you get to the cam thingy, remember that this is now a manual barge and you need low end grunt.

I was going to confer with an expert on C body 4 speeds

 

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

Stick with your LY rods. Those 6 pack/HP rods are heavy.

You also can not run those rods (6BBL) on an internally balanced engine. There are a number of after market rods that are the same weight as the LY rods with the bigger rod bolts and higher tensile steel that are a good deal stronger. Helps keep the low end mass down and puts less strain on the rod and main bearings.

Dave

As it is, I've been researching the stroker kits and likely will run a full stroker kit with a fluid damper, that seems to be the safest way to build a high horse iron head RB stroker. So I'll be using the crank, rods and slugs from the kit most likely unless I go with the 493/496 side of it where a few of them utilize the OE crank

 

[commando1]

unless I go with the 493/496 side of it where a few of them utilize the OE crank

Huh?
You talking about using the Chevy offset journal thingy?