1971 Fury GT, Gold, Promo Car

Both links installed
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Sway bar: Wife and I lifted it above the strut rods from below the car. We installed the links in the original frame bushings, loose, so they could move up and down.

Sway bar end brackets/straps: large strap installs to the inside, small strap to the outside, nuts to the outside. Leave nuts at the end of the bolts to give as much room to slide the bushing into place as possible. (or install the bushing 1st) :D
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Moog K7064 sway bar end bushings (2/kit): the bushings are already slotted longitudinally so that they can slide over an existing strut rod. I used Sil-Glyde to lubricate the inside of the bushing and the strut rod at the install area. The strut rod becomes thicker in diameter as it comes close to the lower control arm. The end strap bushings install on the strut rod where the narrow diameter ends. The back of the bushing then rests against the front of this thicker diameter portion of the strut rod. Note: Moog K7064 bushings do not look exactly like the factory bushings, which had an extension that went up towards the sway bar and fit against the bottom of the flat flange that the tops of both end straps clamp around. The bushings are not the same but are workable. Try getting a factory bushing….don’t think so.
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Sway bar end bushings: I installed them with the slot facing up towards the sway bar. I centered the bushing in between the 2 straps, at both ends of the sway bar.

Sway bar end straps: I tried attaching them several different ways, but I found the way that kept the bushing centered the best was to hold the straps against the bushing and then tighten the top 1st. 9/16 long socket, 3/8 air ratchet on the nut, 9/16 short socket, 3/8 breaker bar on the bolt. I then tightened the bottom bolt and nut using the same tools. I torqued the bolts and nuts at 30 foot-pounds.

Sway bar bends: the flat flanges at the end of the sway bar start out to the outside of the struts. When tightening the end straps, the sway bar bows so that the flat flanges end up directly above the struts. I didn’t expect this and it adds to the difficulty of installing the sway bar.
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Link frame bushings at upper left. Factory P# 1734315. You can still get these, but they're expensive, $50 for pair. I got them from AMS. 2040 parts had them cheaper, but there were a couple bad reviews for 2040 on FCBO.
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I followed Alan’s advice @MrMoparCHP and installed them with white lithium grease after removing the original bushings. The original bushings had looked good, but they cracked pretty badly as soon as I started installing the sway bar. I removed the old bushings with a chisel and a hammer. Plenty of rust dust. Needs clean up and touch up.
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Sway bar links, upper mount, frame: the top of the links are threaded studs. I pushed the links through the bushings from below. Install cupped washer/retainer on top of each bushing, concave side down. I installed the nuts and tightened both 100 inch pounds, ½ inch long socket, 3/8 torque wrench. The retainers crush the factory bushing such that it expands outward and looks like the top of a shock mount.
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Really relieved and glad that my sway bar is finally reinstalled. Figuring out the best way to do this has been a 2 ½ week learning process, off and on.
Upper View
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Sway bar links, bushings at sway bar: I made sure the links are vertical. Tightened the locknuts and bolts to 100 inch pounds, ½ inch long socket, 3/8 torque wrench on nut, ½ inch wrench on bolt.
Lower View
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Moog K7061 Sway Bar Link Bushing Kits
These are hard to come by because they go in and out of production. @ayilar
Older K7061 kits contain the Moog aftermarket replacement links and come in a longer box. I got the links because I wanted the bushings.
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m8.jpg

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I don't like Moog Links. Lower strap is not shaped right for a square bushing.
OEM on left, Moog on right
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+
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Moog assembled. I used them on a 69 Monaco in the 1990s. They can be made to work, but I don't like them. Last resort. Probably why they are discontinued.
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New K7061 kit. Comes in smaller box. New Moog K7061 Sway bar link bushings do not have that oblong protrusion (above) that needs to be ground off to be used with factory links.
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MOOG Auto Part Finder | Vehicle Part Results

Part Details
 
Moog Bushing K – 7061, square link bushing at sway bar: both of the bushings had oblong extensions on one side because they are made to set up with Moog sway bar hangers, not factory hangers/links (not true of later production K7061 after Moog discontinued it's aftermarket links). I ground those off carefully using a grinding wheel on a bench grinder. Then they were right for factory links.
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Bushing Drill, 15/16 inch: Moog K – 7061 bushings usually come split, although the one on the left was not. They are manufactured with 7/8 inch inner diameter, so I had to widen the hole to fit my 15/16” sway bar. No 15/16 inch inner diameter bushings are being produced at this time by any manufacturer. I had one FCBO member advise me to use a hole saw, but a split bushing just crumples under a hole saw. I used a new 15/16 inch twist drill bit for the 2 bushings that I was going to install on the sway bar.
I made this fitting out of upper flange of a broken link and used it to hold the bushing in my vise while I drilled it out.
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1/2" Industrial Quality Drill. Old, but still works (like its owner)
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Drilled out bushing
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Split bushings are harder to hold steady when drilling. With patience it can be done
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Link select: I had painted 4 hangers/links. I selected the 2 that I thought were in the best condition and it had the largest cavity for the bushing because the links for the 15/16 sway bar and the 7/8 sway bar are the same, but depending on how the upper and lower flange were welded together, the cavity can be smaller or larger. I intend to use the other 2 links to install a 7/8 inch diameter sway bar on my 1970 Plymouth Fury convertible.

Link, pry apart. In order to install the bushings, I had to pry the lower flange away from the upper flange where I had split the 2 apart with the reciprocating saw. I think the factory may have done the same thing, because the weld between the lower flange in the upper flange is larger on one side. On one side the weld extends beyond the flanges, on the other side it is buried within the flange. I think the factory welded one side together, installed the bushing, and then installed the link with bushing on the sway bar, then welded the opposite side together with a smaller weld.
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Bushing installed on Link: install square sway bar bushing. I put the links in the vise to hold them steady while I pushed in the bushing. I put a cloth over the jaws of the vise so that I did not mess up the paint. I put the split in the bushing close to the place that I had sawed apart the flanges to give as much flexibility as possible when I slide the bushings and links on to the sway bar.
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Grease: I used SIL – Glyde silicone grease to install the bushings and links as assemblies. I had a member suggest that I use soap and water, however I needed something that lasted longer. Also, Silicone grease, unlike petroleum grease, does not damage rubber over time. I greased the sway bar from the end of the sway bar all the way to the mounting point for the link and I greased the inner opening of the bushing.

Link and bushing install on sway bar: I put the sway bar end into my vise with a cloth to protect the paint. It takes muscle and leverage to push the link and bushing assembly over the flat end of the sway bar. Once you clear the flat end of the sway bar, the bushing and link slides easily down the sway bar.
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With the split bushings you can put the bushing on the bar without the bracket then add the bracket. Should go a little easier.


Alan
 
FIRM FEEL STEERING GEAR, STAGE 2 REBUILD (modern steering feel)
(before and after)
Condition when sent by Fedex to Firm Feel on Feb 20.
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It's home when removed
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Apr 28 received steering gear after phone payment of $545. Firm Feel bills on completion.
Packing balls, don't you love 'em? NOT. Oh well. Clean up the mess and move on.
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After brake cleaner for paint prep
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Black Rustoleum Primer
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Rustoleum Gloss Black (original color was black based on other steering gears I've seen)
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FIRM FEEL REBUILT STEERING GEAR
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Return valve/control valve FSM 19: front of the valve body came from Firm Feel with 2 plastic plugs in place. Before doing anything, turned the steering gear so that the valve body faces up. I leaned it against 2 wooden blocks on my workbench. Otherwise once I pull the plugs, power steering oil that’s in the valve body starts to spill out. Coat 2 O-rings (Firm Feel provided) with Sil-Glyde. The larger O-ring goes in the indent in the front of the valve body. The smaller O-ring goes in the indent in the back of the control valve. While holding control valve flush to valve body to keep O-rings positioned, install control valve with 2 bolts that were returned by Firm Feel. 7/16 inch short socket, 3 inch extension, 1/4 inch ratchet, then torque at 96 inch pounds with 3/8 torque wrench.
Valve body & control valve
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O-ring
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O-ring
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Control valve installed
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Pressure hose fitting at valve body (did not send to Firm Feel). After positioning the steering gear so that the valve body faces up and using a screwdriver to remove the plastic plug at the top of the valve body, install fitting with copper washer also provided, 11/16 long socket, 3/8 torque wrench at 30 foot-pounds. I used the wood block to position the steering gear with the valve body up.
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Pressure fitting & copper washer
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Pitman Arm: Rare Parts Diamond Specialty. Supposed to be built to match or exceed OEM specs. Install on workbench. The steering gear has 2 master splines, however the Pitman arm has no master splines. Instead it’s got index marks on the lower surface that are supposed to be lined up with the master splines. Line up and install pitman arm on workbench. Tighten Pitman arm nut on steering gear shaft, 34 mm long socket, ½ inch ratchet.
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FIRM FEEL REBUILT STEERING GEAR
Pitman Arm
I wrapped pitman arm in towel and clamped in my vise. Torque the Pitman arm nut 175’lbs, Armstrong ½” torque wrench with socket braced against side of vise. Recenter steering gear: with the master spline for the shaft on which steering coupler mounts facing directly up, the steering gear is centered when the master splines for the steering gear shaft at the Pitman arm face right and left. If looking at the bottom of the steering shaft, the portion facing the driver is 12 o’clock, the master splines are at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock.
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Pitman arm installed
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Grease valve (provided by Rare Parts) installed
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Steering Gear Install: cake compared to when I did it with engine in car. Firm Feel Rebuilt Steering Gear on 1970 Fury 440/727
Fasteners
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Roller Dolly (no sliding it under the car on a piece of cardboard)
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Steering gear, install: mount on stud at upper left. Install the bolt at upper right, 1 lock washer, then lower right, 2 lock washers (came from factory that way. Clearance to get socket on bolt head?). Install nut and flat washer on stud. Tighten bolts ¾ inch long socket 6-point, ½” ratchet, add 6” extension for nut. Then torque at 100 foot-pounds, ½” torque wrench. Later I did brush-on Rustoleum Black touch up paint on gear, bolt heads, and nut at stud.
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IDLER ARM
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Paint
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Idler Arm: bolt goes through from the bottom of the mount. I pushed the bolt for the engine x-mbr mounts of the idler arm through the lower mount, through the idler arm bushing, then through the upper mount. Nut on top of bolt. Idler arm bolt and nut: hold 7/8 inch wrench on nut, on bolt 13/16 inch short socket, ½ torque wrench at 65 foot-pounds. The castle nut has 3 upper extensions none of which was blocking the hole for the cotter pin at the top of the bolt threads. Install 1/8 inch cotter pin and bend sides around nut.
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Plans: rest of the steering linkage needs to wait, because if I install the center link, I'm going to loose room to work that I need to strip and paint the firewall.
 
Looks good. Just wondering - - Did they charge you a de-greasing and hazardous waste removal fee for cleaning it up. :poke:
No.
$475 Stage 2 rebuild 1.25 Sector Shaft Steering Gear
$70 Ship
Stage 2 is supposed to given modern car steering feel
Did they charge you that fee?
 
I am not sure. That is a guess based on the car being off the road since 1978 and the center of the front stub frame being pulled forward. It is possible that before 1978 the car was involved in a front end collision of some type, but I think the area would have been pushed backward. The car has been through at least 5 owners, a dealership, and then Dan.
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The farmer who drove the car in New Mexico until 1978 treated the car as a beater. When it broke down, he could've dragged it with a tractor to a point where a tow truck could take it to the gas station. It was sitting in the gas station parking lot and the station was being shut down. That's where the 1st owner - that Dan was able to find - bought the car in 1978.

According to Dan, when the car was in Colorado before it went to New Mexico, someone cracked the 440 block, which is how the 383 ended up in the car. The 383 that I removed, had a cracked head and had leaked anti-freeze down into cylinder #8 since 1978. The distributor was missing so mice nested in the front of the engine, and the engine was locked up junk. Also, the bottom of the car is still caked with New Mexico soil, as was the dashboard and interior before I cleaned it.

Given how the car was not cared for, it is amazing that it survived to this point. Who knows which owner jerked it around with a chain?

That history being given, my main concern is the bent right side strut rod. I'm concerned that if the car was pulled hard enough to bend the strut rod, the front of the stub frame might be out of alignment, which might throw the lower control arm out of alignment. I don't know how to tell. And I may need a frame shop to tell me.

I'll look for rust at the mounting points. Thanks, Ben
Instrument cluster flood lamp panel is bent,
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bezel has a few scratches but nothing that couldn't be cleaned off with some toothpaste
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Need to get in this area with a toothbrush. Like the front to rear speaker fader. Don't know if the car had a stereo multiplex option or not.
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On the radio being a Multiplex, I'd say no due to the fact there are no small stereo L&R dash speakers. Probably just a AM with rear speaker. Very nice!
 
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