1971 Fury GT, Gold, Promo Car

[1970FuryConv]

It came out , so what I'll say here doesn't matter for today, but it might for someone reading along in the future.

Don't put heat directly on the BJ, put it on the surrounding area as much as possible. (moving in a circle and bending the flame around the U-shaped area would be best)
Heat would make that area expand and help loosen the grip on the BJ.
Yes, heat will transfer, but it will always be hottest where the flame touches, so when the BJ was heated it expanded it in the UCA to some extent.

If doing this with oxy-acetylene and can turn everything orange, making the surfaces slightly 'greasy', then this doesn't matter.
But when using MAPP or propane, with less heat available, take every advantage. Put the heat on the item that should be expanded.


View attachment 583872

The whole ball joint mount area turned red, so Jerry may have done what you said.

I edited the original post to correct the wording.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Control Arms
I put a 1/2 inch rod through the bushing mounts of both upper control arms and vise to clean with wire wheels on drill
Worked out pretty well as a holding device.
Right upper control arm

Left side upper control arm. Heating the control arm made the area around the upper ball joint mount easy to clean.

Cleaned up for prime

Lower control arm pivot pins after meeting with the wire wheel on my bench grinder

Lower control arms, one clean and one not

Wire wheel kit

Rustoleum Automotive Primer

 

[1970FuryConv]

Control Arms Get Paint
Rustoleum Automotive Gloss Black

 

[1970FuryConv]

Control arms get bushings:
Jerry installed the upper control arm bushings with the same tool that he used to remove the old bushings. The flange for the upper control arm bushings installs flush to the extension on the outside of the control arms. The bushing installs into an open cylinder on each side of both upper control arms.
Install flange easy to see

Bushings installed from outside against flange

Jerry recommended against trying to clamp the upper control arms to his work bench and install the new upper ball joints on the work table. Instead, he said it would be a lot easier to install them with the control arm mounted on the car, because I can get proper torque on the UBJ. So we'll do that later.

Lower Control Arm Bushings
Jerry used the press on top of the nuts for the pivot pin to press each pivot pin into the inner sleeves of the 2 lower control arm bushings. While the upper control arm bushings were easy to install, the lower control arm bushings did not want to install in the cylinder of the lower control arm. Pressing against the pivot pin only extended the rubber bushing from the outer sleeve. We had to use different washers and clamps on the outer bushings. We settled on to half-moon shaped washers and a hollow metal pipe to press the bushing outer sleeve flange flush with the upper edge of the cylinder where the bushing is installed.
Pivot pins, installed in LCA bushings 1st. Press pin until lower end even with bottom of bushing

Press bushing into lower control arm, using outer sleeve of bushing.This clamp did not work well. Needed Half-moon washers to get the outer sleeve flush with the mount.

Done

Upper control arm bolts get primer.

Center links and tie rods get paint

 

[1970FuryConv]

Before I can hang any of the suspension parts on the front subframe, the subframe has to be measured square and also square to the body/rear subframe. Chrysler factory shop manual gives the following instructions for determining whether the front subframe is square and square to the body. Essentially I had to use a Plumb Bob and my wife marking X is below the bottom of the Plumb Bob on the garage floor to measure the height of the subframe and body at different places and then measure diagonals between the driver and passenger sides of the body to assure that all heights and diagonals are within .25 inch acceptable deviation. This gets harder when jackstands obstruct measuring and jackstand heights don’t allow getting the body completely level front to back. The problem is worse because the factory shop manual does not give numeric specs for the letter measurements in the body alignment diagram.

FSM gives no specs for the letter measurements

I had to improvise, so I made sure the car was level side to side and then devised my own points of height & diagonal measurement. I’m okay if a right and left height measurements are within .25 inch and both sides of a diagonal are within .25 inch. Also, BIG Thanks to Carl 71FuryGC for measuring his subframe and helping me get to a good starting point as to extension beyond radiator support panel at the front of the car.
Carl measured this

Another view

Tools for the job

Plumb Bob

Old Man with a Hat (and a Plumb Bob)

4x6 placed so I could move subframe on mounts

 

[1970FuryConv]

Body level side to side: Pinch weld at engine side of firewall, runs horizontal across the entire front of the body shell. My wife and I hung the Plumb Bob at 6 points along the pinch weld. We marked each point with a chalk mark on the pinch weld and X mark on the garage floor. I learned the hard way that floor panel locations can be at different heights depending on side of car. Result, although the front of the floor pans at the outside corners measured the same height, the body was not level. Other heights and diagonals went outside spec > lots of wasted time. DOH!
Firewall Pinch Weld

Chalk marks below firewall

Firewall pinch weld heights (pass side .25 inch lower than driver side)

Outside left frame rail: 41 5/16+ inches

Inside left frame rail: 41 5/16+ inches

Inside steering column: 41 3/16+ inches

Left side transmission hump: 41 3/16 inches

Right side transmission hump: 41 1/16 inches

Inside right frame rail: 41 1/16- inches

With the car having jackstands at 4 points, the right side could not be lifted the .25 inch needed to match the height of the left side, without putting .25 inch of spacers above both right side jackstands. Jacked the side of the car at the pinch weld between the 2 right side jackstands. I added 2 rectangular spacers above the wooden blocks above both jackstands. The spacers are .125 inch height each.
Frame mount spacer from parts box

Spacers at rear subframe RSF

Spacers at board behind trans x-member

I measured the height to the pinch weld again and it was 41.25-41 3/16 inch all the way across. This was as close to level as I could get.

RSF: Rear subframe, floor pan directly in front: left side 23 9/16 inch, right side 23 5/8 inch. Difference of 1/16 inch could be the amount of undercoating on the floor pan
Right side mark at front of rear subframe

Left side, same deal

 

[1970FuryConv]

Main Mount height, measured at bolt surface, top of each mount, Plumb Bob and chalk marks on 2 mounts and concrete floor

RS main mount

Measure from chalk X on main mount to chalk X pass side directly behind and to outside of row of 6 firewall pinch weld X's

Left side 26.5 inches, Right side 26 13/16 inch. Difference of 5/16 inch. Not allowable given max .25 inch deviation

Left side subframe fasteners: remove stud at radiator support, bolt and nut at rear mount, 2 bolts at main mount,
Left side radiator support stud goes thru this bushing

Rear mount

Left side Main Mount, after remove 2 bolts, Rectangular shims between upper bushing and body shell install surface: remove both. .25 inch total height.
Shims visible in pic below

Left side subframe fasteners: install 2 bolts at main mount, bolt and nut at rear mount, stud at radiator support. Tighten and torque: 45’lbs main mount, 75’lbs rear mount, 30’lbs radiator support panel mount.

Main Mount Height, re-measured

Left side 26.75 inch, right side 26.875 inch. Difference of slightly over 1/8 inch. I cannot figure out why the right side went up 1/16 inch unless I mismeasured the 1st time. I decided to leave the 1/8 inch difference and see how the subframe set up. I had spent several days trying to get the subframe heights exactly the same across the car with bad results on other heights. Advice: get it close and try the other measurements. Eventually, you’ll get to where everything is within .25 inch.

 

[1970FuryConv]

After Carl’s help at the front of the subframe, I found that these alignment holes at opposite ends of trans x-member work well for centering the rear of the front subframe.
Right side

Left side

Heights, Plumb Bob and chalk mark X’s on concrete floor

CTXM: .75 inch bolt hole at inside frame rail. Bottom of hole measured 1.625 inch to the bottom of the frame rail on both sides and 28.2 cm to the bottom of the transmission X – member both sides. Left side height 25.75 inch, right side height 26 inch. On edge of acceptable, but between main mount and rear mount. Let’s check the other measurements.
CTXM right side, left side matches

Mark for left side CTXM is in front of wheel well, must have rubbed out right side

EXM: Engine X – member rear of joint at bottom of frame rail: 33.75 inch both sides. An exact match!!! Awesome. 4 days and it’s finally right. Control arms should set up OK.

RRSB: Small bolthole to rear of radiator x-member support bracket on inside of frame rail: 32.5 inch right side, 32.625 inch left side

Marks for RRSB, EXM, CTXM front to back
Right side

Left side

FCSF: Outside upper bolt hole at front corner of subframe: 37 1/8 inch both sides. An exact match. No tilt at the front of car body.
Right side, 3 bolt holes make triangle. Measured down from Outside hole at right side front corner of subframe

Subframe Diagonal measurements across garage floor between chalk X’s

EXM-CTXM RR-LF 50 9/16 INCH, LR-RF 50 9/16 INCH

RRSB-CTXM RR-LF 57.625 INCH, LR-RF 57.50 INCH

FCSF-CTXM RR-LF 69.5 INCH, LRRF 69.25 INCH

All diagonal measurements for subframe are within .25 inch deviation. Subframe is square and true.

Body to subframe diagonal measurements across garage floor between chalk X’s

RSF-CTXM RR-LF 62.875 INCH, LR-RF 62.625 INCH

RSF-EXM RR-LF 92.0 INCH, LR-RF 92.125 INCH

All heights and diagonal measurements are within .25 inch allowable deviation. In addition, the heights of the engine x-member and the front corners of the subframe are exactly the same both sides. Front subframe does not look perfect, yet, but I can use it. And I don’t have to dismantle another Fury to get a subframe. I’d rather leave other Fury’s on the road than sacrifice one for my project.

Frame alignment takes some patience and creating your own diagram, but if I can do it, you can do it. Maybe it’s easier now for you to do it. MOPAR to ya!

 

[71FuryGC]

Before I can hang any of the suspension parts on the front subframe, the subframe has to be measured square and also square to the body/rear subframe. Chrysler factory shop manual gives the following instructions for determining whether the front subframe is square and square to the body. Essentially I had to use a Plumb Bob and my wife marking X is below the bottom of the Plumb Bob on the garage floor to measure the height of the subframe and body at different places and then measure diagonals between the driver and passenger sides of the body to assure that all heights and diagonals are within .25 inch acceptable deviation. This gets harder when jackstands obstruct measuring and jackstand heights don’t allow getting the body completely level front to back. The problem is worse because the factory shop manual does not give numeric specs for the letter measurements in the body alignment diagram.
View attachment 587283
FSM gives no specs for the letter measurements
View attachment 587284
I had to improvise, so I made sure the car was level side to side and then devised my own points of height & diagonal measurement. I’m okay if a right and left height measurements are within .25 inch and both sides of a diagonal are within .25 inch. Also, BIG Thanks to Carl 71FuryGC for measuring his subframe and helping me get to a good starting point as to extension beyond radiator support panel at the front of the car.
Carl measured this
View attachment 587285
Another view
View attachment 587286
Tools for the job
View attachment 587287
Plumb Bob
View attachment 587288
Old Man with a Hat (and a Plumb Bob)
View attachment 587289
4x6 placed so I could move subframe on mounts
View attachment 587291
View attachment 587292

View attachment 587290

Glad to hear that this all came together Ben! Good idea to use the plumb line and marks on the floor to get everything within the 1/4" tolerance. Great improvisation in the absence of a frame jig.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Upper Control Arms
Clock Positions of center bolt versus small hole in offset washer matched to notes and pictures before removal
Right side front to back

Right side control arm. Ball joint to be installed later.

Left side front to back

+

Left upper control arm

 

[1970FuryConv]

I didn't like these upper control arm bumpers because the square index is so shallow that it can't hold the bumper in the control arm while tightening the nut. Moog #, but not Moog brand on package.

Used cloth around bumper and vise-grip to hold bumper while tightening

No index

 

[1970FuryConv]

Spindles, Steering Knuckles, Caliper Brackets, Dust Shields
Disassemble for clean up

Rare parts lower ball joints match the old lower ball joints

Distilled vinegar. $3.58 per gallon. Definitely put it outside. Bad odor.

 

[1970FuryConv]

More suspension stuff
Lower Control Arms
Strut Rod assembled to control arm: on the work table, the strut rod goes through the hole at the front for its mount. I had trouble turning the nut on the threads at the back of the strut rod, so I cleaned the threads on wire wheel. I installed the nut at the rear of the strut rod slightly loose to give me movement to clear edges of the mounting hole at the frame cross member under the radiator support panel.

Engine x-member, holes for pivot pin

Strut Rod: front grommet, the rear grommet and metal sleeve are on the strut rod when it’s installed. The front grommet, which is marked FRONT, goes over the end of the strut rod and over the end of the sleeve and provides the insulation between the sleeve and the cross member under the radiator support panel.

Back of front grommet

Front grommet installed

Rear grommet

Rear grommet installed. Cupped washers front and back

Left side: lower control and strut rod are installed as single assembly

 

[1970FuryConv]

Install: pivot pin through hole at engine support crossmember while guiding strut rod through hole at crossmember under radiator support panel. Nut and square washer at front of pivot pin, 1.125 inch short socket, ½ inch ratchet. I tightened this firm, but did not apply full torque because that is supposed to be done with the full weight of the vehicle on the tires and tires on the garage floor.
Pivot pin where it goes thru rear of engine x-member

Nut & square washer on pivot pin are forward of engine x-member

Torsion Bar Adjuster: receiver, slots face down

Torsion Bar Adjuster bolt: leave loose until new torsion bars received

 

[1970FuryConv]

Right Side
Pretty much the same process
Set up strut rod on LCA on bench

Simultaneous Install: pivot pin at engine x-member and strut rod thru hole in x-member under radiator support panel
Strut rod and sleeve, x-member under radiator support panel

Rear strut rod nut installed firm. I had a hard time keeping the strut rod from spinning so I used this torsion bar clamp

Strut Rod Front Nut: 15/16 long socket, ½ inch torque wrench at 52 foot-pounds.

Rear view

Pivot pin pics

 

[thethee]

Oh yeah that's all coming together beautifully Ben

 

[1970FuryConv]

STEERING KNUCKLES
Clean up after 4 days in distilled vinegar. SOS pads in utility sink. Wire wheel
Right steering knuckle after vinegar and SOS pads. Not perfect, but parts a lot better than they were

Steering knuckles and bolts

Wire wheel helped. Caliper brackets before and after

Markings in case you find the elusive 1969-1973 c-body caliper brackets at a show. Both sides are same. There is no right and left.

Probably a date

 

[1970FuryConv]

STEERING KNUCKLES GET PAINT
Dust shields after 7 days in vinegar

I tried Loctite Rust Neutralizer instead of primer. Ace Hardware sponge brushes worked good for this job

Rustoleum Gloss Black

Dorman 31052 lower control arm bumper

 

[1970FuryConv]

UPPER BALL JOINTS
Moog is Made in USA

1st tried to install the upper ball joints on the threads of the upper control arm dry, with no oil. I only got about 2 threads installed before I was completely stopped. These are supposed to self-tapping, but I was applying way more torque than the 125 foot-pounds specified
Wrong. Minimal threads should be visible. I was stopped and this upper ball joint was 1/3 installed.

Wrong, bottom view

I I removed both upper ball joints and cleaned the threads in the upper control arm using a handheld steel brush

I lubricated the threads of the upper control arm and the upper ball joint with cutting oil

I installed both upper ball joints, using ball joint joint socket and ½ inch breaker bar with cheater pipe. It took a lot more than 125 foot-pounds, but I did install both ball joints such that almost no threads were visible above the mounting area of the upper control arm. In looking at the upper control arm and the upper ball joints, I’m pretty sure that the thread height is the same for both.

I put the upper ball joint socket on my Armstrong torque wrench. I checked both upper ball joints at 125 foot-pounds. Neither moved at all with that small an amount of torque.
Final install. right side

Tools for the job

Left side, final install

 

[1970FuryConv]

STEERING KNUCKLE, RIGHT SIDE
What it looked like

Rare Parts 10166. Lower ball joints are hard to find. I think Rare Parts has good quality, but that is based on research.

Steering knuckles: I installed the rubber boots on the bottom of the Moog upper ball joints. I installed the steering knuckles on the upper ball joints., 7/8 long socket, ½ inch ratchet, snug

Steering knuckle, right side:

Lower ball joint, Rare Parts 10166. I installed it on the lower control arm, loose. Then on steering knuckle, loose

Steering knuckle to lower ball joint bolts and nuts: the bolt heads face out. Rear bolt: 15/16 long socket, ½ inch ratchet on nut, 15/16 inch short socket, ½ inch breaker bar on bolt head. ½ inch torque wrench at 120 foot-pounds. Front bolt: 15/16 short socket, ½ inch ratchet on nut, 15/16 long socket, ½ breaker bar on bolt head. ½ inch torque wrench at 120 foot-pounds. Turn both nuts clockwise until cotter pin hole aligns with slots on castle nut. Install cotter pins with wire cutters.

Lower ball joint to lower control arm stud and nut: stud faces up. Nut goes on top. 15/16 inch short socket, ½ inch ratchet. ½ inch torque wrench at 115 foot-pounds. Turn both nuts clockwise until cotter pin hole aligns with slots on castle nut. Install cotter pins with wire cutters.

Upper ball joint to steering knuckle stud and nut: stud faces down. Nut installs from below steering knuckle. 7/8 inch long socket, ½ inch ratchet. ½ inch torque wrench at 125 foot-pounds. Turn both nuts clockwise until cotter pin hole aligns with slots on castle nut. Install cotter pins with wire cutters.

Need to do left side tomorrow. Also order torsion bars, rear boots, and clips from Firm Feel.
Some day soon, I hope to have a roller with rebuilt suspension and working brakes.