1972 Fury III 360 101498 miles

[1970FuryConv]

Bought 8.75 Rear from 1972 New Yorker for $100, included axle shafts. Per @Aidan1976, the rear is a match for my 1972 Fury. Thanks Aidan!
Next project: upgrade from my noisy 8.25 to 8.75
Axle after I first got it home

Paid a family member $20 to help me. Axle after 2.5 hours of wire wheel clean up.

Key reason for purchase: 489 case. Even if it needs rebuild, once it's right, it will handle future engine upgrades. 8.25, not so much

 

[LocuMob]

You don't waste any time, do you? You're welcome to stop by my place and lend a hand any day of the week!

 

[1970FuryConv]

You don't waste any time, do you? You're welcome to stop by my place and lend a hand any day of the week!

No. I don't waste time. Besides, the car is like a magnet. It's hard for me to stop working on it. Awesome looking car!

Scott, that's one thing I don't understand. I'm an auto hobbyist, because I like working on cars. Once I get a car, it's hard for me to keep my hands off it. I'll work on it every weekday after work and both days of weekend, until I make it the driver I want it to be. (NO SHOW CARS ALLOWED) I can't understand people who buy the car and let it sit. It's mind boggling to me. Is this their hobby or what? Ben

 

[LocuMob]

I can't understand people who buy the car and let it sit. It's mind boggling to me. Is this their hobby or what?

In my case, I bit off more than I can chew. But it's not too much that I can't nibble away at it. Buying three cars last year changed the planning a little, but it didn't set anything back, and everything is safely in my name only. Now I'll try to get a lot of stuff done I'm a shorter amount of time. I got a taste of it last year, and look forward to getting back into it. Watching your thread has been inspiring.

 

[GJS]

That face alway got me. Stunning ride and great work!

 

[1970FuryConv]

Next Episode of As the Axle Turns
Separated Carrier "Pig" from axle housing. 10 9/16" nuts. Used BFH and Punch against rectangular protrusion at the top of the axle carrier. After several strikes on both sides, crack appeared between the carrier and the housing. Tapped a small flat blade screwdriver into the crack and used the screwdriver as a gentle prybar. Good news: The color of the oil was medium brown. There was no evidence of water contamination. There was no white cloudiness.
Axle Housing on stands

2.76 Gear Ratio: Expected from 1972 440 4-door New Yorker. 8-24-71 production date

Open Rear (no sure-grip)

Housing: mounting surface cleaned

Razor blade in paint scraper to remove most of the old gasket material. Die grinder with 3M roloc surfacing discs to clean off remaining gasket and oil.

Carrier mounting surface, cleaning in progress, while carefully keeping a rag over all of the gear mechanisms, so that no debris entered the gears

Carrier mounting surface: clean. Rectangular extension at top

 

[1970FuryConv]

Drove Fury to work today. Got compliments from another impressed lady. Hmmm: chick magnet. Wish I'd had the car when I was single.

Ordered gaskets from NAPA. Will have at store tomorrow
Felpro RD6583: diff carrier to housing
Needed another Felpro 55032, axle shaft bearing flange gasket. Ordered that too.

Axle shaft, right side (adjuster side) after clean up with Marine Clean & wire wheel. Bearing in good condition.

Top of flange, needs to be flat so wheel studs can be removed/installed. (can spin flange on shaft)

Full view

Car had sat in junkyard over 20 years. Broke 2 studs when removed right side wheel.

Thread chase 3 good studs

Removed 2 broke studs in vise, used 1 jaw to press stud into 7/8 short socket braced against other jaw.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Left side axle shaft, non-adjustable

Clean with Marine Clean & wire wheel

All left side wheel studs damaged

Shaft, left side: all 5 wheel studs were badly dented by the wheel being left loose and the threaded portions of the studs resting on the old wheel rim. Used same process above to remove 5 damaged wheel studs. Length of stud including circular mounting flange 1 5/8 inch. Length excluding flange, 1.5 inch.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Aidan @Aidan1976 sent this info when I was considering an axle swap on my 1970. It was essential in deciding what 8.75 axle to buy to replace my 8.25. Thought I'd share some good info from a good Irishman.
Wheel Track, C-Body cars
· Plymouth, Chrysler, Dodge 1965-1969, 60.7" all models incl station wagon

· Plymouth & Chrysler: 62.0 inches 1970 to 71 coupe and sedan.

· Plymouth & Chrysler: 63.4 inches 1972 to 1973 all models, 1970-71 wagon

· Dodge: 63.4 inches 1970 to 1973 all models

 

[1970FuryConv]

Right Side Axle Shaft: Install 2 wheel studs, 5 more on order
Wheel Studs: NAPA Rear Wheel Studs 641-1610
· Spline Diameter: .673" (matches original)
· Thread: 1/2x20
· Total Length from Seat to end of Thread: 1.75"
· Used 3/4 long socket and bench vise to press in 2 right hand thread studs. All are right hand from factory on my 1972. I had a 3/4 lug nut on each stud to act as a guide within the socket. When the stud sticks in the flange, a few raps on the vise with BFH allows splines on wheel stud to penetrate further into axle shaft flange. I threw the rope over my loft's support beams, tied it, and used it as a sling.
New stud in position

Pressing new stud into place

Adjuster visible

Sling set up

Both wheel studs installed, they are 1/8" longer total length than OEM, but otherwise the same

Other part numbers
· Felpro gasket RDS6583 8.75 Differential to Axle hsg $5.59, picked up at NAPA, ordered from warehouse
· Felpro metal gasket 55032 8.75 Axle shaft to Axle hsg $2.28 (I already had 1 onhand) picked up at NAPA, ordered from warehouse
· NAPA Pinion Oil Seal 18708, on order $19.18, reduced from $26.99. Jeff, store mgr, gave repair shop price because National Oil Seal 5126 at AutoZone was $12.99. Took NAPA because AutoZone more than 10 miles farther away.
· Axle Housing Inner Seal for axle shafts is NAPA 15460. Mopar 2881185 installed both sides of axle housing. Look and feel brand new. Had wheel bearing grease all around them. Keepers

 

[1970FuryConv]

Wednesday's work: Hit a snag
Diff Carrier to Axle housing gasket RDS6583

Gasket on axle housing. Slid together, both upside-down. No risk of oil contamination at bottom of gasket. I had let diff carrier drain for 2 days and wiped it off several times. Hope no contamination anywhere on the gasket. No contamination=No leaks

Together: 45-45 ft-lbs torque.
Dirt from junkyard in strap bolt holes

1/4x28 tap. Fingers crossed

Blew the bolt holes out with this on my air compressor hose

Straps and bolts from spare parts after meeting with my wire wheel

3 bolts held torque, but the one with the chalk mark was in a hole where I could feel the tap change direction 2/3 of the way down. Bad cross thread. Going to remove pinion yoke and replace oil seal below, but need inch pound beam torque wrench to assure reinstall at same turning torque and therefore same depth on collapsible spacer. Ordered from ebay.

PERFORMANCE TOOL 1/4" BEAM STYLE TORQUE WRENCH 0-80 INCH POUNDS M195 | eBay
Also ordered 1/4x28 helicoil kit
Good news is car is a good runner now. No hurry.

 

[1970FuryConv]

POR-15 Chassis Black, 2 coats, approx 4oz per coat.
Still needs another coat and detailing, but looks a lot better

 

[1970FuryConv]

Progress. Auto Paint & Supply was out of chassis black, so went with POR-15 Gloss Black for 3rd coat. 3" brush to apply

Repair broken vise:
· ½” Threaded rod in vise to replace my threaded rod, because insert bunged out. Nut and washers both sides. Tighten at anvil side ¾ long socket, 3 ext, ½ R, while hold moveable side nut steady with ¾ wrench
· Left Side Axle Shaft: Finished install of 2nd wheel stud and installed remaining 3 wheel studs, NAPA 641-1610.

Need to grease shaft bearings and put aside awaiting install.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Axle Shafts
· Grease Needle: push into grease fitting on metal pipe of grease gun. Insert between tapered roller bearings and outer race: with axle shaft in vertical position. Insert about half way down and press trigger 4 to 7 times.

Axle shaft bearing: spin on axle shaft, inserting needle ½ to ¾ of the way down. Work all the way around the axle shaft, such that excess grease is coming out of the top and bottom of the bearing. Once this is done, the bearing feels very tight in the race. Wipe off excess grease.
Left side: after grease

Wiped clean

Vertical

Right Side, needed a lot more grease, but still felt smooth turning after

All wrapped up, awaiting install

 

[1970FuryConv]

Pinion Yoke, removed, not repaired
Axle moved to workbench

· Turning Torque, 2-3 inch pounds: 1 ¼ inch short socket, ½ to 3/8 adapter, 3/8 to ¼ adapter, 6 inch extension, ¼ inch drive beam torque wrench. Spin several times to achieve even turning. Spin and watch needle on torque wrench. 2-3 inch pounds turning torque, both directions. By factory specification, turning torque after reinstall should be within 5 inch pounds of this turning torque.

· Pinion Yoke Nut, remove: 1 ¼ inch short socket, 3 inch extension, ½ inch breaker bar, cheater pipe. Place large pipe wrench on flange of pinion yoke. While family member held the opposite end of the axle down, I pressed down on the pipe, having it in a horizontal position, turn CC. Nut came loose and removed easily. Nut and washer are both in excellent condition. Very lucky! Washer can be removed with 2 rod magnets.

Bottom view of nut & washer: pretty good for 22+ years in a junkyard

· Pinion Yoke, remove: Do not attempt to remove using the U joint straps. Craftsman gear puller. Assemble with pivots on center hole of both arms. Arms go around the outside of the pinion yoke and grab the back of the yoke. Large pipe wrench on pinion yoke, 11/16 short socket and ½ inch breaker bar on puller bolt. Turn clockwise to remove pinion yoke. This also removed easily once I got started. Internal splines not damaged.

· Pinion Yoke, repair: eBay seller J B Tool in Livonia Michigan sent the wrong helicoil kit. It was supposed to be 5528 – 4 thread 1/4x28, instead I received 8 – 32 machine thread repair kit. No packing slip in shipping envelope. Nobody checking to make sure correct part # shipped. Returned with eBay free return ship label. Very angry and disappointed that I can’t put pinion yoke back on axle anytime soon. Wrote angergram to JB Tool. Will see if they do anything to correct the situation.

The Bullshit of Thread Repair
· NAPA needs to get oversize tap & thread inserts from Indianapolis and Maine, 2 days. Advance Auto lists the Helicoil repair kit 5528 – 4, but wants $20 more than eBay at $50.99 and does not have in store. AutoZone does not stock 1/4x28 OEM repair kits. Lowe’s, Home Depot, Northern Tool, Hanover Tool, and Harbor Freight do not stock thread repair kits with inserts. Sears is only open in Chesterfield, and does not stock thread repair kits. Craigslist: nothing. Fastenal & US Supply, already closed tonight. Pleasant’s Hardware does not stock 1/4x28 kits. Will probably order from NAPA.

 

[rags]

excuse my ignorance. turning torque 2-3 in/lbs. what should the pinion nut be tightened to? there's a big difference. can't remember if this is a crush sleeve rear. don't think it is. very nice write up all in all.

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

The Bullshit of Thread Repair

The bullshit is that your wasting your time going to NAPA/Adavance/Lowes.
You being in Richmond VA you should have plenty of nut & bolt suppliers around that meto area to find a complete stock of all HeliCoil kits and sizes. Also check tool suppliers as these kits are considered 'Tools'. Although these companies are most likely only to be open normal business hours and not during the evenings or Saturdays.

A lot of times if you are only doing 1 or 2 thread repairs you can get away with just getting a small refill pack and just the tap, 1/4-28 is pretty small but anything 5/16th and above you can tap it out and install the insert with very skinny needle nose pliers and get away without buying the insert tool $$$.

And I take it your re-using axle bearings that have sat in a junkyard for 20 years?

Bad idea IMHO, and I've also deducted from this forum that these axle bearings are somewhat priced like Gold these days?

 

[1970FuryConv]

excuse my ignorance. turning torque 2-3 in/lbs. what should the pinion nut be tightened to? there's a big difference. can't remember if this is a crush sleeve rear. don't think it is. very nice write up all in all.

489 case, 170 ft lbs with large stem crush sleeve rear. It's possible to do this under a vehicle on jackstands, but it's a lot easier with room to move on a workbench.

 

[1970FuryConv]

The bullshit is that your wasting your time going to NAPA/Adavance/Lowes.
You being in Richmond VA you should have plenty of nut & bolt suppliers around that meto area to find a complete stock of all HeliCoil kits and sizes. Also check tool suppliers as these kits are considered 'Tools'. Although these companies are most likely only to be open normal business hours and not during the evenings or Saturdays.
And I take it your re-using axle bearings that have sat in a junkyard for 20 years?

Agree on calling fastener suppliers. That’s why I called US Supply and Fastenal yesterday. I started calling late in the day and a lot of businesses had closed. Also, I wanted to hear from JB Tools, but they still haven’t responded to my message. I was hoping they do something expedited shipping to make this right, but as eBay sellers get bigger, shipments get more inaccurate and customer service declines. Twice this year, I’ve had large eBay sellers send me the wrong thing.

When I lived in California as a Marine in the 1980s, there were auto parts stores that were open 24 hours and had Helicoils right on the shelf. The kits were $12-$15. I think they were called Kragen. Now the hardware stores and auto parts stores are all part of big chains, and you can’t find anything.

On reusing the axle bearings, someone packed these bearings with a thick outer coating of wheel bearing grease not long before the car went into the junkyard. The rear is like a well-preserved time capsule. I cannot find any evidence of water damage or other damage. And as you point out, new tapered bearings are priced like gold and it’s getting harder and harder to find machine shops who’ll properly press them on. 15 years ago, I dealt with one place that use the torch to cut off the old bearings, which undermines the integrity of the axle shaft. If I’m wrong, the nice thing about 8.75 rears is that the axle shafts and bearings are easily removed along with the differential carrier. I’m judging both good, but a road test is the only way to see for sure.

 

[1970FuryConv]

PINION YOKE
· Fastenal: went to the Ashland store. Spoke with Chris who set me up with a kit of 3 inserts, a 17/64’s drill bit, 1/4X28 oversized tap. $27.90 including tax.

· 17/64 Drill Bit: drill straight down as far as bit can go. Eliminated the remnants of the old threads, so that the walls of the cross threaded bolt hole were smooth. Hole at lower right in pic.

Smooth, upper hole

· ¼ X 28 Oversize Tap 200224272: place in tap wrench, and turn clockwise down into the bolt hole to create new threads. Every turn or 2, counterclockwise one quarter turn, and start turning clockwise again. This dislodges metal bits from the tap. Ran the tap all the way down to the bottom of the hole, where it basically stopped turning. Do not want to turn too hard at the end, because you can strip the threads. If there’s a question, remove the tap and look down at the bottom to see if the unthreaded area matches the pointed area of the tap. Note: Fastenal did not have a bottoming tap. This job would have been better if I had gotten a bottoming tap to follow the pointed tap and taken oversize threads all the way down to the bottom.

· Thread Insert 11139042 1/4x28 x 2D: turn clockwise to install on oversize threads, using old tire valve installer. The slot at the end of the tire valve installer engages the tang at the bottom of the thread insert, and saves you the cost of buying an insert tool, about $12. Normally you would use a pin punch and BFH to whack the tang at the bottom of the thread insert. Then you could use the tire valve installer tool to turn tang side to side and break it off. Turn the pinion yoke upside down, and the tang falls out. Unfortunately, with the threaded insert not all the way at the bottom of the hole, using the pin punch and hammer on the tang distorts the bottom of the threaded insert, so that the insert is no longer fitting properly into the threads created with oversize tap. In testing to see if I could tighten the bolt in this hole, I destroyed 2 bolts, because the ridges on the bolts were flattened by the mismatched threaded insert. Pulled 1st 2 inserts out. 3rd threaded insert: I did not hammer off the tang, but used measurement and lock washer/spacer to assure that the bottom of the bolt stayed above the tang. By doing this I didn’t distort the threaded insert with a pin punch and hammer, and I didn’t destroy the 3rd bolt. Ugh! Bottoming tap for oversize threads on order from ebay seller.

Tang at bottom (yes, looking for replacement vise)

Washer for pinion yoke nut
Convex side

Concave side faces front pinion bearing

2 coats POR 15 Gloss Black, small artist brush to apply. Large bolt makes pinion yoke easier to handle. Painted 4th strap bolt separately