1972 Fury III 360 101498 miles

2022-02-20 Carwash

We washed the 1972 Plymouth Fury with Mopar Liquid Carwash Concentrate and cotton towels.

It came out well I think. Time for some pictures.
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2022-02-25 Heater Box Door Cranks

The problem has been that the heater system does not put out much heat even when the fan is on high. I decided to try adjusting the heat defrost door and the air/heat shut off door, rather than pull down the entire heater box, which is a lot of work and a big mess if any coolant spills on the carpet. Yes I know you can plug both heater core inlet and outlet tubes, but all one of those plugs has to do is come off as your drop the heater box down and as I say you can have a big mess.

All of these observations are as you face the heater box from lying on the floor or the front seat of the compact passenger compartment. See diagram of the passenger compartment side of the heater box, on a unit without air-conditioning.
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The left side door crank is heat defrost. I wanted heat so I adjusted the door crank to the extreme counterclockwise position. I did this per the control cable adjustment directions, section 4, page 24 - 10

The right side door crank is air shut off. I adjusted the door crank to extreme clockwise position, again per the control cable adjustment directions, section 5, page 24 – 10. I believe the door blocks the passage from the heater core to the passenger compartment if it is shut. I did not know until reading factory shop manual pages 24 – 10 through 24 – 12 that the system had an air shut off door. I suspect it’s there to keep passengers cooler during the summer. Feel free to correct me on that if I’m wrong.
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Here is the position of the 2 cranks before I made the adjustment. I moved the cranks side to side to make sure that I was getting to the extremes. Bushings are rusty so the cranks are hard to move.
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After Adjust
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As you can see with the adjustment of air shut off door on the right side, the beginning position is the same as the end position. This is after moving it back and forth several times to each extreme. As you can also see the heat defrost door ended up in a position that is slightly more counterclockwise than the original position. Instead of some of the air going to the heat ducts and some going to the defrost, I put it in a position where all of the heat goes to the heat ducts at the bottom of the dash.

As you can also see, someone disconnected the cables from the clamp mounts and discarded the clamps. I suspect a previous owner did this in order to protect the control unit because the heater door cranks are so hard to move. Moving the levers side to side on the control unit does nothing at these 2 door cranks. When the levers are actuated the heater defroster door cable does move, but it doesn’t do anything at the door crank. The air shut off door cable does not move.
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We will have to see whether I have better heat with the repositioned heat defrost door. It was hard to get my hand up on top to feel the crank for Temp Control Door. I don't know if Temp lever moves it or not. I may have to try again if this doesn't work.
 
22" Radiator & Fan Shroud
Purchased Metal Fan Shroud from 1968 Polara: 2-part, 1962-1968 according to eBay seller, with mtg brackets $173.75 included tax and ship.

Champion EC2374 Aluminum Radiator: 22 inch core, installed in my 1972 Plymouth Fury, along with 18" factory fan. The car runs well for medium distances, like 34 miles one way. However if I stop somewhere on the way home in the summer heat, I do risk vapor lock after I restart the car and get going up the road. I decided that the cooling system was not doing it’s job perfectly. Most cars need a fan shroud, and my car is no exception, even though it doesn’t have air conditioning. Just so you know, the factory radiator that was in the car when I bought it and that began to leak, had no fan shroud mount on it.
Original Radiator (recycled)
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I bought the Champion radiator because it did have a shroud mount and because it was much cheaper than getting my radiator with no shroud mount fixed. Champion has predrilled 7/32" holes at bottom of shroud mounts, but no holes at upper corners:. I drilled 7/32 holes .25" from top and from inside of mount. Test fit top piece.
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Upper half of fan shroud installs to the outside of the lower half. Removed 2 screws and removed upper half. Side with wall facing the engine is on left side. Fan is offset right versus the back of the radiator.

Lower half of fan shroud: a stiffening ridge on the bottom directly above the lower radiator hose was making the lower half sit too high so that the slot did not match the position of the hole at the bottom of the shroud mounting surface on the right side. Grind off the stiffening ridge above the lower radiator hose. Test fit lower half: it did install, 5/16 inch short socket, ¼ – 3/8 adapter, 3/8 inch stub ratchet. For the upper half I added a 6 inch extension.

Upper half of fan shroud: install over top of lower half. Awl: Mark the bolt holes for joining the upper half and the lower half by using the tool through the screw holes on the upper half to scribe the paint on the lower half. I used a 5/16 inch drill bit and exhaust cutoff wheel to create the appropriate holes. For the lower half I also had to grind off the stiffening ridge at the outside, right side, where the 2 halves joined together. Then the lower half was able to sit flush against the upper half, because the upper half could be pushed towards the front of the car, so the 2 surfaces engaged.

It took several test fittings along with more drilling and grinding, but eventually I got everything to line up. Tightest area was the curved edge at bottom of the lower half where I had about 3/8 inch of clearance. If you have a factory 22" radiator, you should have about 17" between top mounting hole and bottom for fan shroud mounts. A lot of this could be avoided.
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Test Drive: the factory 18” fan did not hit the shroud even on hard acceleration. In revving the engine at idle using the carburetor throttle linkage, I found that the fan does not draw much air through the radiator at idle, but it draws a huge amount as the engine is revved up. I tested to make sure the fan was mounted the right way by placing a rag over the front of the radiator. Even at idle the fan could hold the rag against the radiator. So it is always pulling air.

Have driven 250 miles since install. No vapor lock. It's too bad someone is not reproducing these 2-part fan shrouds.

POR 15 Black on outside of shroud to cover rust and grind marks/edges
 
Side Mirror, RS, Mopar 4329068
1969-1970 - I think - mirror flopped around while driving. I broke it while backing up. DOH
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Left side, manual, 1972 stock
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NOS, matches a Left side remote, Dealer Earnhardt’s Gilbert DO, Gilbert AZ
What I can find. Hope mounting holes for right side manual are same.
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Base front: Needs to be 9.25” to rear along soft body line at front edge of door, to match left side

Double nut: remove mirror studs. Did a lot of test fitting trying to find right spot. Having a wife who will hold while you look helps.

Door panel remove, paint scraper to dislodge silicone at rear lower corner. Previous owner tricks. Look mom, no clips!
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Find correct position: Wife held in place several times

Drill 7/32” holes 2.125” apart. 2 holes at upper right
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3/8” wrench, 3/8 long socket & ¼ R: install 2 nuts. Would not fully tighten to stop. Studs were not turning. Gap between body and base?
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Door Panel: drill 7/64” holes: install 4 screws, 3 on rear edge, 1 at bottom

Test drive: mirror held position OK
 
Side Mirror, RS, Mopar 4329068
1969-1970 - I think - mirror flopped around while driving. I broke it while backing up. DOH
View attachment 551566
Left side, manual, 1972 stock
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NOS, matches a Left side remote, Dealer Earnhardt’s Gilbert DO, Gilbert AZ
What I can find. Hope mounting holes for right side manual are same.
View attachment 551568
Base front: Needs to be 9.25” to rear along soft body line at front edge of door, to match left side

Double nut: remove mirror studs. Did a lot of test fitting trying to find right spot. Having a wife who will hold while you look helps.

Door panel remove, paint scraper to dislodge silicone at rear lower corner. Previous owner tricks. Look mom, no clips!
View attachment 551569
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Find correct position: Wife held in place several times

Drill 7/32” holes 2.125” apart. 2 holes at upper right
View attachment 551571
3/8” wrench, 3/8 long socket & ¼ R: install 2 nuts. Would not fully tighten to stop. Studs were not turning. Gap between body and base?
View attachment 551572
Door Panel: drill 7/64” holes: install 4 screws, 3 on rear edge, 1 at bottom

Test drive: mirror held position OK
I would love to have a right side mirror... your car is BEAUTIFUL
 
I told myself over and over, “No more projects!” …while spending a lot of time looking on the Internet at what was for sale. I came across this 1972 Fury III in Winona Lake, Indiana. I love the gold, the coupe, no vinyl top (and no rust concealed under it), no AC. My willpower cracked and I had to have it. It was for sale for $5000, which I thought was a bit much given the condition. The owner was selling, because he had won the car as an unexpected prize at a charity golf tournament, where he was closest to the hole on number 8. He provided many photos and was good to deal with. We settled on $4000. I considered flying to Indianapolis and driving the car from Indiana to Virginia, but thankfully reason triumphed. I had it shipped to my home by Metrogistics for $745. I thought I’d introduce the car and start a project stream. The 1st set of pictures are after my family helped me wash it.
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Wow! Considering it has been five years I should apoligize For not finding this sooner. This is my old car. In 2017 I sold it to a kid in Lake Oswego Oregon and he told me he had planned to road-trip it to Indiana. What happened to it after that I have no idea but it looks like it’s still in great shape! I purchased the car in 2015 from a guy in Vancouver Washington who had brought it up from Mexico. When I got the car the engine was completely stock with 80,000 original miles. My dad and I pulled the top end of the engine apart and installed a new cam as well as a new timing set (no need to worry about the plastic sprockets). I repainted the components and installed the 4 barrel intake. I think the guy from Indiana replaced the carb I installed however. I was feeling real nostalgic the other day for my car and thought I’d seek it out. Really happy to see it has ended up in good hands! It was my first car and I’ll always love it.

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Wow! Considering it has been five years I should apoligize For not finding this sooner. This is my old car. In 2017 I sold it to a kid in Lake Oswego Oregon and he told me he had planned to road-trip it to Indiana. What happened to it after that I have no idea but it looks like it’s still in great shape! I purchased the car in 2015 from a guy in Vancouver Washington who had brought it up from Mexico. When I got the car the engine was completely stock with 80,000 original miles. My dad and I pulled the top end of the engine apart and installed a new cam as well as a new timing set (no need to worry about the plastic sprockets). I repainted the components and installed the 4 barrel intake. I think the guy from Indiana replaced the carb I installed however. I was feeling real nostalgic the other day for my car and thought I’d seek it out. Really happy to see it has ended up in good hands! It was my first car and I’ll always love it.

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That's great history! I surprised bout the car coming from Mexico. I was guessing that it was a Pacific Northwest car all of its life and that was the reason for the small amount of rust, versus an East Coast car.

After you sold it in 2016, the guy did road trip to Indiana. Apparently he was a student. The car was completely impractical so he sold it to another gentleman from Indiana. That man did not keep it long, but traded it into a used car dealership. Someone at that dealership messed up a lot of the wiring, so the dealership donated it to a local golf tournament for charity. Another student who played in the charity golf tournament, won the car by being closest to the hole on number 8. The prize was a surprise and you can imagine the shock of a 20-year-old college student when they told him that his closest to the hole prize was a 1972 Plymouth Fury. I bought the car from him in January 2018. As you can see from the thread, I did a lot of work on it. I then had a lot of fun driving it. In August 2022, I faced the choice of needing to downsize so I could focus on a 1971 Plymouth Fury GT that is a big project. 8/22 I sold the car to another FCBO member in Pennsylvania. (He asked that I not give out his contact information or the price). I can say that I've kept in touch with him. The car's been to the body shop and the interior shop. It really looks superb. The electrical and mechanical remain the same. He says he's got a lot of money in it and I hope he posts pictures soon. Thanks again. Ben
 
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