I'll have to computate data a little closer. I've only driven it very short distances. So far it looks like 7.5 mpg on 93 octane. I may be wrong on the numbers so far. I just need to accurately record fuel consumption and mileage a little closer.
1978 NYB New Engine.....
- Thread starter 1978 NYB
- Start date
Yep, I have the choke where I want it right now. Just need to drive it awhile to see if I'm satisfied with the choke setting. I know a lot of guys that just can't leave things alone and then they have the carb so jacked up that is barely runs. Then....they bring it to me and I do the same dang thing every time. I put the carb exactly back to factory adjustments and then very little adjustments to get it to run correctly.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
That's how it is done.
So, SO, many times I want to tell someone, Put the screwdriver down, step away from the car, and nobody gets hurt.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
The mileage could be better, but the smiles per mile..... Oh and the mileage is better when you keep your right foot out of it, not as fun but better
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
With a big stick and crappy vacuum and a quick fuel on top, a O2/air fuel ratio guage is a eye opener.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
It will loosen up. My charger was crap at first and now up to mid 14+ with my truck driver foot.
I think it's closer to 9 mpg. I don't remember if I had the gas tank full when I started the first computation. Oh well, I'm sure the mpg or my math will get better down the road.
Even if it doesn't, will it really matter? If I had that for a "driver", I'd have too big a smile to give a hoot about mpg, especially with a sleeper like yours!
moper
Well-Known Member
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Granted its probably 900lbs lighter in an E body, but the 550hp 496 I built just got 14mpg driving to VT on vacation. It's more about tuning and a conscious effort to dial in the timing curve, and use the vacuum advance.
Well....i had to surrender and take one of my A/C hoses to Benz Hydraulics in Bear, Delaware to get the correct fitting and a the hose fabricated.
You wouldn't believe the money I've spent so far on the A/C. Insane amount of $$$ and I just couldn't come up with the correct combination of fitting and hose. The good people at Benz Hydraulics ordered a special fitting for me and should have the hose fabricated in a day or two.
Then, just vac it down and charge it up. I'm not expecting any problems with the manual A/C Sanden conversion.
You wouldn't believe the money I've spent so far on the A/C. Insane amount of $$$ and I just couldn't come up with the correct combination of fitting and hose. The good people at Benz Hydraulics ordered a special fitting for me and should have the hose fabricated in a day or two.
Then, just vac it down and charge it up. I'm not expecting any problems with the manual A/C Sanden conversion.
Still have to figure out why I have,a hard brake pedal with the vacuum canister setup. I'm going to bypass the cruise control system and the rear air ride suspension systems for now to eliminate those vacuum avenues.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Bummer. I'm feeling your frustration
rags
Senior Member
i see the check valve on your vacuum can. the manifold vacuum port hooks directly to that only? the other components feed off the vacuum can?
Manifold vacuum to check valve on canister and then from the canister to the power brake booster.
Bummer. I'm feeling your frustration
Thanks, I know when to take a deep breath and take it another direction.
The cruise control and air ride rear suspension runs off of vacuum lines off the check valve at the booster. There is another vacuum type pump inside the driver fender well that builds air pressure for the rear suspension.
twostick
Senior Member
So how much vacuum does the engine idle with/run at speed with?
Kevin
Kevin
The max vacuum I have encountered was 14.5
I'll have to check the parts manual and see if I can find a Speedo cable for a Formal w/o cruise control. A one piece unit that goes from the txsm straight to the Speedo in the dash.
