1978 NYB New Engine.....

That's your hard pedal.

Before I installed the vacuum canister I had one good pump of the power brakes. Hitting the brakes a 2nd time produced the hard brake pedal. After installing the vacuum canister I have a hard brake pedal on the first pump.
 
depending on the converter stall speed, thinking that on the road during a closed throttle coast the vacuum would be a lot higher and the vacuum can would retain it.

B&M 2400 stall converter.

The instructions said to run it 1200-1500 rpm's for a minute after startup and the vacuum supply should be adequate.
 
After the can was installed and you got the hard pedal did you check the vacuum at the booster again?
 
Bob, do you have the hose from the engine attached to the can's check valve and the nipple from the can attached to the boosters check valve?
 
it's just too much volume to evacuate or the check valve on the can's no good.

I have a check valve on the booster with 3 hoses on it. I have a plain single new check valve for the booster. I'll see if that does it.
 
If I can't get it to work I might have to eliminate the canister and see if the brake pedal is back to normal.
 
14.5 isn't ideal but it should have power assist at that. If you see zero assist I'd pull the fitting out of the booster to see if the check valve still functions. If you can blow thru the end that the hose goes to, it's FUBAR and probably your problem. If it's OK, the booster is probably the shot.

Kevin
 
14.5 isn't ideal but it should have power assist at that. If you see zero assist I'd pull the fitting out of the booster to see if the check valve still functions. If you can blow thru the end that the hose goes to, it's FUBAR and probably your problem. If it's OK, the booster is probably the shot.

Kevin

I'll be working on it Saturday and I'll let you know what the results are.
 
14.5 should be fine. I don't think you need a cannister.

Like I said at the beginning of the brake booster situation. Before the canister install I had one good pump on the pedal. The 2nd pump was rock hard. After the canister install it was a hard pedal on the 1st pump. Something just doesn't make sense. I'm going to eliminate the secondary vacuum lines from the booster ( cruise control and the rear air ride suspension) and see if that changes anything.
 
Like I said at the beginning of the brake booster situation. Before the canister install I had one good pump on the pedal. The 2nd pump was rock hard. After the canister install it was a hard pedal on the 1st pump. Something just doesn't make sense. I'm going to eliminate the secondary vacuum lines from the booster ( cruise control and the rear air ride suspension) and see if that changes anything.

What does vacuum have to do with air ride suspension?

Kevin
 
What does vacuum have to do with air ride suspension?

Kevin

The air pressure is built off an auxillary vacuum pump hidden in the left side fender well. There is an additional vacuum line running from the brake booster to that vacuum pump in the fenderwell.
 
Got the A/C hose back from Benz Hydraulics from Bear, Delaware.They ordered the fitting I needed, shipped it UPS, mounted the fitting to the hose in 24 hours and cost a grand total of $39. One of the only reasonable expenditures on this journey so far. I'm way past $16k on this engine build so far.
 
38° ambient temp and she started right up with no battery or fuel aids.

I thought that was quite impressive.
 
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